Monday, February 07, 2011

Passage Through India: Part I

Saturday, 29 January 2011

12/24 Karol Bagh

An early start to the day. Did the usual household chores then went to visit Mummy. I felt somewhat sad when I left her and continued feeling sad throughout the day. I notice that I always miss her most during trips. Started packing only when I reached home.

Abah sent me to Ampang Park LRT station after 12. I had forgotten how bad Saturday traffic is and we were caught up in the mad jam. I did manage to get the train and coach to KLIA on time thankfully.

The duty-free shops didn’t catch my fancy and after some light snack, I made my way to the boarding gate. Now, this trip was planned back in June last year and since then, we’d been receiving emails notifying the change of departure time from 1930 to 1640. However, despite boarding by 1615 and notices saying that gates would be closed 10 minutes before departure, we took off late because we were waiting for some passengers (who didn’t turn up in the end).

The flight was bumpy at times and I had a noisy seatmate (he kept singing out loud at times and waking me up) but other than that, it was an uneventful flight.

We landed at Indira Gandhi International Airport at close to 8 pm (India is GMT+05:30, i.e., 2.5 hours behind KL). It was past 9 when we finally emerged and searched for our guide. A light fog and a chill were hovering over Delhi but not too cold. The ride to our hotel took about half an hour and check-in was a breeze (we were initially given another hotel but I requested a change after reading the awful reviews on Trip Advisor). I guess we were exhausted because we slept easily that night, well at least I did.

Sunday, 30 January 2011

Woke up after 6 am, showered and performed prayers. Went down for breakfast after 7. The driver came after 8 and took us around Delhi. We passed the Hanuman Mandir (Temple of the Monkey God), Connaught Place (colonial buildings turned to bazaars and offices), Cur Market, some old city gates before arriving at Jama Masjid. This is the largest mosque in India and one of attractions of Delhi. Entry is free but you must pay Rp200 for your camera. You must also take off your shoes before entering the compound (apparently you’re supposed to tip the shoe minder when you go to collect your shoes but we didn’t know this. No wonder he was gesturing at us but we ignored him). Ladies will also be given a robe to tie around themselves. Unlike most mosques, there are no prayer halls except for the long corridor that encircled the compound/court area. We were told that the large court area could accommodate up to 20,000 people. I can’t imagine how they perform prayers with bird droppings on the ground because I don’t think they spread out carpets or prayer mats during prayer times (it would takes miles of carpet to cover the area!). As it was, I was walking gingerly around to avoid the bird poo.

You can also see the Red Fort in the distance from the mosque; we were told that the Fort was closed for a month due to the Republic Day celebrations on 26 January. What a shame as I was looking forward to exploring the Fort.

We left after 30 minutes and went to India Gate passing among others Rajgath, Major Dhyanchand Hockey Stadium and Art Gallery. India Gate is a monument built as a memorial for the Indian soldiers who died in WWI. After that, we drove to the nearby parliament, President Palace and government office buildings.

Our last stop was Padma Arts & Crafts Bazaar located below Safdarjung Flyover. The store gave a good indication of the handicrafts that a visitor can expect to find in India. There were fine furniture, marble products and carvings, silk shawls and jewellery, all arranged beautifully and priced accordingly.

We left empty-handed though and went to the domestic terminal for our flight to our next destination.

The airport was modern and had the usual airport stores. I noticed that books in general cost a lot less in India and couldn’t resist buying one. The airport provides free WiFi but I was told I needed an Indian SIM card to use my iPad (what the ??).

Our flight departed on time and 75 minutes later, we landed at Srinagar Airport. It is a military airport and we were informed that we were not allowed to take any photos in the airport. There was heavy military presence everywhere and foreigners have to fill up a form stating the usual (where you’re staying, purpose of visit, country of origin, passport details etc). We then met up with our guide and he brought us to our vehicle. He introduced himself as Hilal and we set off for the ride into the city. Oh and by the way, we didn’t get any network coverage in Kashmir... I had to rely on BBC News to find out about Arsenal’s FA Cup and EPL scores - and the jaw-dropping transfers of Torres and Carroll (what? Why? If Torres is worth that much, how much is Cesc worth then? Barcelona, take note).

Now, Srinagar is the hub and heart of Kashmir with two major lakes, Dal and Nagin. Our accommodation for the next three nights was in a boathouse at Dal Lake. As Srinagar is located north of India (quite near the border of Pakistan), surrounded by mountains and is 1530 metres above sea level, it was unsurprisingly cold when we were there. Snow on the fields and roadside and the weak winter sun made it seem even colder.

Our room in Shangloo Palace boathouse was very large and there was a gas heater (switched on at certain times of the day for a few hours only - apparently you can die from asphyxiation if the heater is left on for a prolonged time). The living room was similar lovely and cosy with a ‘stove’ to burn wood that helped keep the living room warm. The wealth of Kashmiri art was evident throughout the boathouse from the curtains, sofa covers, bed linen, papier mâché vases, bowls and coasters, and wood carvings.

We had lunch and performed prayers before going on a Shikara boat ride around the lake. It was a fantastic experience; the mountains provided a beautiful backdrop and were mirrored in the water (it would have been a lot better in summer with the lotus flowers in the lake. Oh well...). We passed other boathouses (we were told there are 800 boathouses on the lake) and even went beyond the boathouse area. We also saw some planting plots in the lake - of course it being winter, there wasn't much planting going on. Our only stop was at a papier mâché factory shop and after a brief demo, we were brought to the shop. After that, we returned back to the boathouse for dinner.

I have a high tolerance to cold temperatures but it was freezing cold tonight. I swear the temperature hovered around 0C if not below freezing point. It didn’t help at all that the gas heater was switched off at 9.30 pm and the electric blanket didn’t seem to work (at least not on my side of bed - unless we both gravitate to the centre of the bed where the electric blanket was at its ‘warmest’). We slept under at least three layers of warm heavy blankets and yet I still felt cold, as if death brushed itself against my face.

To be continued



So, did you miss me?