Showing posts with label INDIA. Show all posts
Showing posts with label INDIA. Show all posts

Wednesday, March 14, 2012

The Cats In The Heat

I must confess I’ve only just realised what great photo subjects cats make. They act naturally and are usually very confident in their own skin (even in the intense summer heat!). Here are some photos of cats that I’ve managed to capture on some of my trips. Enjoy!


A furry Thai cat - but not a Siamese, mind you. Krabi, March 2009 (most cats we saw in Krabi were very furry btw)
A Cypriot cat. Larnaca, Cyprus, May 2009 Merry Marrakesh cats. Medina of Marrakesh, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, May 2010 Hotel resident cat. Casablanca, May 2010
Sporting kitty, posing for me! Casablanca, May 2010 Looking out at The Hassan II Mosque. the largest mosque in Morocco and the seventh largest in the world. Casablanca, May 2010 Indian cat, Jama Mosque, New Delhi, January 2011 Alley cats, Tunis medina, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. May 2011 More alley cats, Tunis medina. Tunis, Tunisia, May 2011 ‘Frankly, I don’t give a meow!’ Tunis medina, Tunisia, May 2011 Cat in Sousse medina, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Sousse, Tunisia, May 2011Sleeping on the job, Mostar. Old Bridge Area of the Old City of Mostar, Bosnia and Herzegovina, May 2011
Cats at the old town of Kotor, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Kotor, Montenegro, May 2011
Another one caught sleeping on the job! Miri market, Miri, Sarawak. July 2011
The real cat in the cat city, Kuching, August 2011

Ginger cat at Maninjau village. Lake Maninjau, Sumatera, January 2012
Zoom up of a kitten at St Paul’s Church, St Paul’s Hill, Melaka. February 2012
Another cat at St Paul’s Church, St Paul’s Hill, Melaka. February 2012
Cats near A Famosa, Melaka, February 2012
Black cat, Melaka, February 2012
Terrified cat on a motorbike in a small village, Melaka, February 2012


I’ll definitely be taking more cat pictures after this!

Thursday, February 10, 2011

Passage Through India: Part IV

Friday, 4 February 2011

We met our local guide, Gopal or Pal as he insisted on being called, this morning and drove to the walled area of the city. Now Jaipur, the capital of Rajasthan state, is also called the Pink City in reference to its distinctly coloured buildings within the walled city which were originally painted this colour to imitate the red sandstone architecture of Mughal cities. The present earthy red colour originates from repainting of the buildings undertaken for a visit by the Prince of Wales in 1876. The buildings looked terracotta instead of pink to me.

We stopped for a brief while at Hawa Mahal (Wind Palace) for some Kodak moments before continuing on to Amber Fort about 11 km away. Pal told us there wasn’t much to see inside the five-storey building (built to enable women to watch festive processions without being observed).

We passed Jal Mahal (Water Palace) along the way to the Amber Fort, so named as it sits in the middle of an artificial lake. Amber Fort is located on a hill and is not named for the yellow fossilised tree resin; instead the fort is named after the town of Amber, in turn named after the Hindu goddess Amba. Unlike Srinagar and Agra, Jaipur was a Hindu city (towns with the suffix –pur had Hindu rulers). You can ride an elephant (for Rp900/person) or a jeep up to the fort or opt to walk up. I preferred to walk up and experience the fort this way and so opted for this (I arrived at the same time as my friends who opted for the jeep). Foreigners pay Rp200 to enter the fort. There are also walls along the surrounding hills not unlike the Great Wall of China.

The main sights within the fort include the Sheesh Mahal, adorned with thousands on thousands of mirror tiles on the walls and ceiling. There are also Diwan-i-Am (Hall of Public Audience), Diwan-i-Khas (Hall of Private Audience), Sukh Niwas (Hall of Pleasure) and Ladies Apartment where the consorts lived. I just love old buildings and old ruins like this and was very happy to be there.

We had to leave at some point and so left at almost noon. I decided to exercise my legs and walked all the way down the fort and along the Maotha Lake to the carpark. I reached there just as the others alighted from their jeep (OK, I had a head-start).

We drove off to a factory shop selling Jaipur handicrafts (saree materials, scarves, jewellery etc etc) and spent 2.5 hours (yes, you read that right) there. The saree materials didn’t catch my fancy, instead I was drawn to the jewellery store (the best jewellery work in northern India can be found in Jaipur, among other cities). I spent considerable time there admiring the rubies (from India and Myanmar), sapphires (also from India and Myanmar) and finally bought a star sapphire ring (after much bargaining). I bought only one small item and yet it cost me a mighty lot. It looks a bit like the
Star of Bombay but only a fraction in carat size of course!

After that, we went to a pottery showroom. Now, Jaipur is famous for its
blue pottery. We spent about half an hour here and I left with three plates and some magnets. We headed back to the hotel for our late lunch and prayers.

We left at 3.15 pm and headed to Jantar Mantar, a UNESCO World Heritage Site (entrance ticket for foreigners costs Rp100). It is the largest of five astronomical observatories and is located very close to the City Palace. The observatory consists of major architectural and instrumental innovations and geometric devices for measuring time, predicting eclipses, tracking stars in their orbits, ascertaining the declinations of planets, and determining the celestial altitudes etc. Our guide helped explain some of the devices (I must admit I didn’t quite follow his explanation). We could see the back façade of the Hawa Mahal from the observatory.

After that, we crossed over to the City Palace (foreigners pay Rp300 for ticket). It houses several palatial structures like the Chandra Mahal (or Moon Palace, home to the present Maharaja of Jaipur), Mubarak Mahal or Welcome Palace (previously a guesthouse for foreign dignitaries, now housing a textile museum), Diwan-i-Khas (or Hall of Private Audience housing the two largest silver vessels in the world which are duly mentioned in the Guinness book) and the Diwan-i-Am (Hall of Public Audience). There is also a bazaar in the complex but I was more interested in the cannons and old rickshaws.

We finally left the palace grounds and headed back to the hotel. We spent the evening packing and had dinner at 7.30 pm. There was some problem with the hotel lift and we had to use the stairs most times.

Saturday, 5 February 2011

We set off early today, departing Jaipur at 8.05 am for Delhi, another potentially five-hour journey to be endured. We drove through Rajasthan (and mind you, it’s the biggest state in India!) and passed villages, small towns, fields of yellow mustard flowers (they can grow higher than six feet!), and the occasional shepherds with their herds of cattle and gypsies. I was thinking that on this trip alone, I had seen numerous dogs, cows, buffaloes, goats, camels, horses, elephants, birds (including migratory ones from Siberia), pigs (yes, pigs. We saw a lot of them in Jaipur!) and only one cat (I also saw a mouse – or was it rat? I can never tell – in our boathouse room; it squeezed out under the door each time we saw each other).

We finally pulled into Delhi after 2 pm (the traffic was quite heavy seeing it was Saturday afternoon. The Government officers works half-day on Saturdays) and met up with our local guide. We drove past the Parliament, along Rajpath heading towards India Gate (we didn’t stop) and headed for
Bahá'í House of Worship. My friends didn’t want to enter so I didn’t either. We left after taking some photos and drove to Qutub Minar, stopping en route at DLF Place Saket for lunch. I performed prayers in the nursery room after trying in futile to find a prayer room. I exited out the wrong door and had to walk around the mall trying to find our vehicle.

We then drove to Qutub Minar but didn’t enter; we just snapped pictures from outside the complex. Built in the early 13th century, Qutub Minar and its monuments are a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The 72.5-metre high minaret was the tallest skyscraper in the world when built and I was a bit gutted that we weren’t going to explore the grounds.

We were then taken to the nearby Rajasthan Textile Development Corporation, a bazaar selling Rajasthan handicrafts. We were knackered and no longer interested in souvenirs at this point, hey after all, we had spent considerable time in that store in Jaipur just the day before anyway. We left after fifteen minutes.

Our guide then got down at a metro station and our driver drove us to the airport. We arrived at the airport at 6 pm, just as it was getting dark (and our flight was at 11 pm!). I was down to my last few hundred rupees (enough to buy myself dinner) but found the books irresistible and finally bought one novel using my plastic (books there are seriously cheap!!). After dinner, I went to a pub and watched the Newcastle-Arsenal match (and the stupid meltdown. 4-4 WTF?!).

That put me in such a foul mood that I couldn’t sleep all the way through the flight (well, I always have problem sleeping in flights anyway). Damn you, Arsenal. Damn you, Phil Dowd. And damn you to hell, Jackass Bastard, the living breathing scum of the earth. Grrr...!!! Thank God the pretend invincibles lost to the hungry Wolves.




I’m sleepy... *stifles yawn* (Thanks, RvP)

Sunday, 6 February 2011

We landed at 6.40 am, about half an hour ahead of schedule. I performed prayers at the satellite building and by the time I reached the main terminal, got through autogate and reached the carousel, my bag came out. I took the coach back to KL and an Indian New Zealander sat next to me and we chatted throughout the journey. Abah picked me up at Ampang Park LRT station and after cleaning the kitchen (what a mess!), I unpacked. It took me less than ten minutes to unpack – what can I say, I’m a fast un-packer ;)

So that was my CNY trip, how was your break?

Wednesday, February 09, 2011

Passage Through India: Part III

Wednesday, 2 February 2011
Groundhog Day

We had a considerably late breakfast today at 9.30 am. Left at 11 am for the airport; our flight was at 2.40 pm but Halil told us that we must leave early for the airport and the reason for this became apparent as we neared the airport. It was a crawl to get into the airport compound and we had to get down and bring down all our bags and had them scanned. We also had to undergo a security check. Then we got back into the vehicle (with our bags) and drove to the entrance where we got down. Halil bade us farewell and we thanked him for his time with us.

Another chap helped us at the terminal but we had to wait at least a good quarter of an hour (more I think) before we could enter the terminal. We made our way to the Spice Jet counter (still closed) and waited to check our bags in. In the meantime, we filled up forms (similar to the one we filled up when we arrived) and these forms must be handed over and checked before we could proceed.

Once we got through the security check (yet again), we had to through a door and identify our bags. Bags which are left unidentified by passengers would not be loaded onto the plane. Yes, such a convoluted process that everyone had to go through.

There wasn’t much to do at the airport, just one jewellery store, one pharmacy and a small café. We saw a lot of men in military uniform (they soon boarded Air India to some domestic destination). We performed solat at the prayer area (in the open. There wasn’t any barrier at all) then sat down and waited.

Our flight out was slightly delayed so it was almost 4.30 pm when we landed at Indira Gandhi Airport. After changing money and buying some food, we set off for our 5-hour trip to Agra at exactly 5.30 pm (I happened to glance at my watch then). Delhi must be huge because we were still in Delhi forty minutes later! Our driver, Jenthi (pronounce as Jothi), like any other Indian drivers, was fond of using the horn. Before long, I had a minor headache from the noise.

We reached Agra well after 10 pm and immediately checked in. The room wasn’t much to shout about and the only thing the hotel could boast of was its revolving restaurant and foreign clientele (but then again, it’s Agra so you’d expect a lot of tourists there anyway).

Thursday, 3 February 2011
Gong Xi Fa Cai!



Happy Year of the Rabbit!


We left for Taj Mahal this morning. First, we went to Shilpgram to purchase our tickets (foreigners have to pay Rp750; foot covers and a bottle of mineral water were provided together with our ticket) before boarding the shuttle to the East Gate of Taj Mahal. There were a lot of vendors all waiting to harass you into buying their goods and our local guide had advised us to just ignore them as they sold fake products. We had to go through a tight security check before we could enter and of course the queue for female was longer because the guards had to check each and every bag. We finally entered after close to half an hour.

We walked to the Great Gate and immediately were struck with the awesome view of the mausoleum. There is a raised marble water tank at the centre of the garden with four benches surrounding it and a reflecting pool that extends to the tomb. The tomb is of course the central focus of the complex and the main chamber houses the tombs of Shah Jahan and his beloved Mumtaz Mahal. There are four minarets, one at each corner of the tomb, and we were told that the minarets are all leaning due to an earlier earthquake. There are also two similar buildings flanking the tomb, the mosque on the left and the guesthouse on the right as you approach the tomb. There are also other mausoleums for Shah Jahan’s other wives but we didn’t visit those. We spent considerable time at the complex.

After that, we went to a marble showroom. Beautiful marble products (plates, containers, even desk tops) with inlay of precious and semi-precious stones are sold there and are priced according to the amount of semi-precious stones and inlays. So a small piece of plate may cost more than a bigger piece if it contains more stones and more elaborate inlays. We were suitably impressed but left empty-handed (I had bought one marble plate on my first trip).

Our next stop was the 16th century Mughal monument known as the Red Fort of Agra or better known as Agra Fort. Foreigners pay Rp300 while the locals pay only a fraction of that for the ticket. The fort is built alongside the Yamuna River and stretches almost 2.5 km. It consists of a wall built in red sandstone and several buildings inside including Jahangir Palace and the Khas Mahal, built by Shah Jahan. Shah Jahan, who built the Taj, was imprisoned by his son Aurangzeb in the Agra Fort where he had a view on the building erected for his deceased wife. Shah Jahan is said to have died in the Fort. We could only visit 30% of the Fort though.

We returned to the hotel for lunch and prayers and left at 3 pm for Jaipur, stopping en route at Fatehpur Sikri, also another UNESCO World Heritage Site, about 37 km away from Agra. This city was built in the 16th century by Emperor Akbar and was the capital of the Mughal Empire for about a decade before it was abandoned. We were met by a local guide and took the shuttle to the complex. Entrance costs Rp260 for foreigners. As the complex includes a mosque, we had to take off our shoes before entering the compound. We went to mighty Buland Dharwaza (Great Gate) at the southern side before exploring other parts of the complex; this gate forms a grand entrance/ exit into the city. There is a marble tomb for the saint Shaikh Salim Chishti in the courtyard. I entered it and was surprised to see people praying and touching the tomb; there were also people tying strings at one wall and from another wall, there was some smoke being fanned inside. I left quickly and rejoined the others. The late afternoon sun enhanced the red sandstone of the fort.

We left after a while, took an auto rickshaw back to the carpark, bade farewell to our guide and drove on to Jaipur. Another long journey and we reached Jaipur at 9 pm. We would stay in Jaipur for the next two nights.

To be continued

Tuesday, February 08, 2011

Passage Through India: Part II

Monday, 31 January 2011

Meadow of Flowers

Somehow we survived the night without frost bites or being frozen to death. And somehow we managed to sleep despite the overwhelming winter cold.

We decided to go to Gulmarg (gul means flower and marg means meadow) today instead of the next day as scheduled. Gulmarg is located 56 km away and is 2,730 m above sea level. The journey took close to two hours as the road conditions were not ideal. Along the way, we passed small villages and farms. There were always men in the village shops and along the road, either gazing blankly at the ground or staring vacantly into space. Most of them wore phiran, a type of Kashmiri poncho.

We stopped at the base of Gulmarg and got down to rent boots (I also rented a fur coat. Boots cost Rp100 while fur coat cost Rp50) before driving up the winding road. We stopped at a restaurant to have lunch and performed prayers first before walking to the gondola (cable car) about one km away and took the gondola up to Kongdori (altitude 3050m). We stopped there for close to an hour. For Rp350, you can get a ski instructor to teach you how to ski and spend time skiing on your own. I wasn’t inclined and was content to just sit and watch. Despite the altitude, it was not much colder as there was no wind and the sun was more intense up there. That explains why people get tanned on ski trips. Also you ought to protect your eyes with sunglasses; the glare from the snow can be blinding and harmful to your eyes.

From Kongdori, you can also enjoy a view of the Himalayas in the far distance (if the day is clear). It seemed almost surreal to view the magnificent peaks.

We took the gondola back down and went back to the parking space near the restaurant where we had lunch. You can rent a sledge and have someone pull you but I was happy to exercise my legs.

We made our journey down to the base, returned the boots and fur coat, drove back to Srinagar and spent the rest of the evening indoors.


Be careful so this doesn’t happen to you!
Well, I didn’t use much of makeup there anyway but you do need to moisturise and drink a lot to keep yourself hydrated as it’s very dry there

Tuesday, 1 February 2011

Somehow I found the previous night not as cold as the night before and remarked so to my mate. I don’t think she agreed with me though.

After breakfast, we left at 10 am and went to the Mughal Heritage Gardens Nishat and Shalimar. Such a pity that it was wintertime as otherwise we could have enjoyed blooming flowers in the gardens. After the gardens, we went to Sara Cottage Industries, a kind of factory shop that specialises in carpets. I didn’t want to buy any more carpets, thank you, although of course Kashmiri carpets are lovely and finely woven. We spent considerable time there and left at 1. Back to the houseboat for prayers and lunch.

We left at 2.45 pm and drove to the Old City. We visited the Jamia Masjid (the largest and one of the oldest in Kashmir), a large building supported by 370 wooden pillars around a courtyard. Then we walked along the city bazaar. I found the Kashmiri architecture interesting and snapped a lot of photos of buildings in the Old City. We also visited Badshah Tomb, a tomb built for the mother of Zain Ul-Abidin who was also the wife of Sultan Sikandar. Our last stop was Masjid Syed Shah Hamdan Sahib (or shrine of Shah-e-Hamdan?).

We returned back but before riding the Shikara back to the boathouse, we walked around the Boulevard Road to find some souvenir shops. Dinner was had at the boathouse and we retired to our rooms after dinner. I stayed up finishing a novel I picked up at the boathouse.

To be continued

Monday, February 07, 2011

Passage Through India: Part I

Saturday, 29 January 2011

12/24 Karol Bagh

An early start to the day. Did the usual household chores then went to visit Mummy. I felt somewhat sad when I left her and continued feeling sad throughout the day. I notice that I always miss her most during trips. Started packing only when I reached home.

Abah sent me to Ampang Park LRT station after 12. I had forgotten how bad Saturday traffic is and we were caught up in the mad jam. I did manage to get the train and coach to KLIA on time thankfully.

The duty-free shops didn’t catch my fancy and after some light snack, I made my way to the boarding gate. Now, this trip was planned back in June last year and since then, we’d been receiving emails notifying the change of departure time from 1930 to 1640. However, despite boarding by 1615 and notices saying that gates would be closed 10 minutes before departure, we took off late because we were waiting for some passengers (who didn’t turn up in the end).

The flight was bumpy at times and I had a noisy seatmate (he kept singing out loud at times and waking me up) but other than that, it was an uneventful flight.

We landed at Indira Gandhi International Airport at close to 8 pm (India is GMT+05:30, i.e., 2.5 hours behind KL). It was past 9 when we finally emerged and searched for our guide. A light fog and a chill were hovering over Delhi but not too cold. The ride to our hotel took about half an hour and check-in was a breeze (we were initially given another hotel but I requested a change after reading the awful reviews on Trip Advisor). I guess we were exhausted because we slept easily that night, well at least I did.

Sunday, 30 January 2011

Woke up after 6 am, showered and performed prayers. Went down for breakfast after 7. The driver came after 8 and took us around Delhi. We passed the Hanuman Mandir (Temple of the Monkey God), Connaught Place (colonial buildings turned to bazaars and offices), Cur Market, some old city gates before arriving at Jama Masjid. This is the largest mosque in India and one of attractions of Delhi. Entry is free but you must pay Rp200 for your camera. You must also take off your shoes before entering the compound (apparently you’re supposed to tip the shoe minder when you go to collect your shoes but we didn’t know this. No wonder he was gesturing at us but we ignored him). Ladies will also be given a robe to tie around themselves. Unlike most mosques, there are no prayer halls except for the long corridor that encircled the compound/court area. We were told that the large court area could accommodate up to 20,000 people. I can’t imagine how they perform prayers with bird droppings on the ground because I don’t think they spread out carpets or prayer mats during prayer times (it would takes miles of carpet to cover the area!). As it was, I was walking gingerly around to avoid the bird poo.

You can also see the Red Fort in the distance from the mosque; we were told that the Fort was closed for a month due to the Republic Day celebrations on 26 January. What a shame as I was looking forward to exploring the Fort.

We left after 30 minutes and went to India Gate passing among others Rajgath, Major Dhyanchand Hockey Stadium and Art Gallery. India Gate is a monument built as a memorial for the Indian soldiers who died in WWI. After that, we drove to the nearby parliament, President Palace and government office buildings.

Our last stop was Padma Arts & Crafts Bazaar located below Safdarjung Flyover. The store gave a good indication of the handicrafts that a visitor can expect to find in India. There were fine furniture, marble products and carvings, silk shawls and jewellery, all arranged beautifully and priced accordingly.

We left empty-handed though and went to the domestic terminal for our flight to our next destination.

The airport was modern and had the usual airport stores. I noticed that books in general cost a lot less in India and couldn’t resist buying one. The airport provides free WiFi but I was told I needed an Indian SIM card to use my iPad (what the ??).

Our flight departed on time and 75 minutes later, we landed at Srinagar Airport. It is a military airport and we were informed that we were not allowed to take any photos in the airport. There was heavy military presence everywhere and foreigners have to fill up a form stating the usual (where you’re staying, purpose of visit, country of origin, passport details etc). We then met up with our guide and he brought us to our vehicle. He introduced himself as Hilal and we set off for the ride into the city. Oh and by the way, we didn’t get any network coverage in Kashmir... I had to rely on BBC News to find out about Arsenal’s FA Cup and EPL scores - and the jaw-dropping transfers of Torres and Carroll (what? Why? If Torres is worth that much, how much is Cesc worth then? Barcelona, take note).

Now, Srinagar is the hub and heart of Kashmir with two major lakes, Dal and Nagin. Our accommodation for the next three nights was in a boathouse at Dal Lake. As Srinagar is located north of India (quite near the border of Pakistan), surrounded by mountains and is 1530 metres above sea level, it was unsurprisingly cold when we were there. Snow on the fields and roadside and the weak winter sun made it seem even colder.

Our room in Shangloo Palace boathouse was very large and there was a gas heater (switched on at certain times of the day for a few hours only - apparently you can die from asphyxiation if the heater is left on for a prolonged time). The living room was similar lovely and cosy with a ‘stove’ to burn wood that helped keep the living room warm. The wealth of Kashmiri art was evident throughout the boathouse from the curtains, sofa covers, bed linen, papier mâché vases, bowls and coasters, and wood carvings.

We had lunch and performed prayers before going on a Shikara boat ride around the lake. It was a fantastic experience; the mountains provided a beautiful backdrop and were mirrored in the water (it would have been a lot better in summer with the lotus flowers in the lake. Oh well...). We passed other boathouses (we were told there are 800 boathouses on the lake) and even went beyond the boathouse area. We also saw some planting plots in the lake - of course it being winter, there wasn't much planting going on. Our only stop was at a papier mâché factory shop and after a brief demo, we were brought to the shop. After that, we returned back to the boathouse for dinner.

I have a high tolerance to cold temperatures but it was freezing cold tonight. I swear the temperature hovered around 0C if not below freezing point. It didn’t help at all that the gas heater was switched off at 9.30 pm and the electric blanket didn’t seem to work (at least not on my side of bed - unless we both gravitate to the centre of the bed where the electric blanket was at its ‘warmest’). We slept under at least three layers of warm heavy blankets and yet I still felt cold, as if death brushed itself against my face.

To be continued



So, did you miss me?

Tuesday, April 10, 2007

In The Picture

Golconda Fort, Hyderabad, India - August 2006

Temple raider, Siem Reap, Cambodia - November 2006

Monks at a temple

Angkor Wat


In a Bangkok tuk tuk - December 2006

Vimanmen Teak Mansion, Bangkok

Terraced rice-fields of Bali - January 2007

Mount Tangkuban Perahu near Bandung - February 2007

Taipei Grand Hotel - March 2007

Queen’s Head at Yehliu Scenic Geopark, Taiwan

Capitol Hill from afar, Washington D.C.

Not Casablanca city in Morocco but Casa Blanca nevertheless, i.e. The White House

Relaxing on an unusually mild spring afternoon

Freezing DC weather on the morning of departure

Monday, September 04, 2006

Feast India


The study trip I was on was to India. Our plane took off on time. I managed to watch Over The Hedge [was probably the only one there watching that movie!] and a bit of Mission Impossible III. Gosh, Tom Cruise can still look quite good but the Irish agent, Jonathan Rhys Meyers, was oh so hot.

We landed at Mumbai Chhatrapati Shivaji International Airport about 4.5 hours later at slightly after 8 pm local time [India is GMT + 5:30]. Now it may be an international airport by name but definitely not by appearance. I felt like I was passing through an airport from the 1970s. Nevertheless, it is India’s busiest airport and the primary international gateway to the country; Mumbai is after all the largest city in India and capital of Maharashtra state. Representatives of our host were already waiting when I Finally cleared customs and I was whisked off to ITC Grand Maratha Sheraton Hotel, a mere few minutes away from the international airport.

The grandeur and splendour of the hotel that greeted me managed to lift some weariness off me. Check-in was a breeze and I got a room at a corridor designated specifically for single women travellers – how’s that for extra protection and thoughtfulness? And the room… splendid! It came complete with toiletries thoughtfully placed to impress even the most discerning guest and with a huge plasma TV to boot!

Sunday, 27 August 2006: I decided to venture out into the City of Dreams in the morning and contemplated on taking an auto rickshaw over a breakfast combination of Western and (I suppose) traditional Indian morning fare. As I was discussing my trip to the Travel Desk, a chap from the host company came over and suggested I take a normal cab instead as he was concerned I may get fleeced. Despite my assurances and protests that I would be perfectly fine [I also didn’t want to trouble anyone especially as the trip to the city was mainly personal and hardly business], he proceeded to make some phone calls. And as it so happened that another lady participant of Turkish origin also needed to go do some Shopping as her luggage got lost somewhere between Frankfurt and Mumbai, it was agreed that we go to the city together to do some sightseeing and Shopping.

The cabbie and Rizwan [the chap from the host company decided to come along] took us through the potholed streets of Mumbai (gosh, the streets were in pretty bad shape alright!) racing through the traffic with auto rickshaws, red non-air conditioned public buses and black-and-yellow private cabs [that looked like the ones plying KL streets in the 1970s]. We travelled from north Mumbai where our hotel was, passing marble mini factories, to the south central suburbs of Dadar – where there were dilapidated, barely liveable shacks and tents and ramshackle shanties lining the street [and people living in them!] – and Parel [where there were a few hotels and business centres] to Mahalaxmi train station, where there was a thriving laundry or dhobi business just on the other side of the railway tracks.

We then moved on, taking the JJ Bridge [if my memory serves my right, plus I didn’t quite understand some of what Rizwan said!] where we passed the Haj Committee building [which functioned akin to our local Pilgrim Fund; the Haj jemaah from India would stay there before flying off to the Holy Land out of Mumbai] to the Chattrapati Shivaji Terminus [formerly Victoria Terminus], a massive train station complex. We then cruised the streets [it was already downtown and the roads were considerably better] passing the Naval Dockyard, the Mint, the Reserve Bank of India building and the Asiatic Society, which is the State Central Library housing a vast collection of newspapers and documents. We were Lucky to witness a movie shooting taking place on the steps of the Asiatic Society, woohoo! Doubt Shah Rukh Khan was there though; we didn’t and couldn’t linger there so we continued on to the Gateway of India. This structure, built in 1911 to commemorate the visit of King George V and Queen Mary to India is the most recognised symbol of the city. The Taj Mahal hotel was very close by providing its guests with magnificent views of the Gateway and the Arabian Sea [and I betcha the room rates must be astronomical!].

After a few minutes of Kodak moments, we continued on, passing the Jehangir Art Gallery and a brief pitstop at the Chattrapati Shivaji Maharaj Vastu Sangrahalaya [what a mouthful eh, one’d probably choke just trying to pronounce the name!], formerly known as the Prince of Wales Museum of Western India.

We then cruised along the Marine Drive [where you get a magnificent view of the Malabar Hill across the Back Bay, passing the famed Chowpatty beach, before going up Malabar Hill. Malabar Hill houses the richest neighbourhoods in the whole of India and the rates there are among the highest in the world. Various embassies are also located here.

We drove on, passing the other side of Mahalaxmi, stopping briefly at the Race Course [photography forbidden here!] before continuing on to Worli and Finally having lunch at an eatery along Linking Road, Bandra. This is India, you must eat at proper establishments and drink only bottled water please.

I was surprised at how famished I was feeling as we waited for our meal to arrive [somehow didn’t really feel it before when soaking in the sights and sounds of Mumbai]. We then went Shopping, or rather browsing, along Linking Road street stalls and bazaar. I didn’t quite manage to find anything that caught my fancy and hence the damage to my wallet was limited. We then returned to the hotel as we had dinner that evening. Anyway, by this time, I’d had enough of Mumbai, particularly the blatant poverty as evidenced by the dilapidated shacks and shanties and tents; the occasional barefooted street child trying to earn a Rupee or two; the mother and daughter duo who knocked on our cab windows signalling they hadn’t had a meal since God only knows when; the dirt everywhere and people living, sleeping, walking barefoot and yet somehow seemingly oblivious to this; the squatters practically living on the streets as the shacks could not possibly occupy two persons let alone a family of five or more [yes, they were peeling vegetables, even having a bath in the streets!]; and what I found particularly and especially repugnant, repulsive and disgusting was the sight of men taking a leak by the roadside [and more of that in other cities as well as I later discovered to my dismay].

I shall not apologise if I sound appalled and disgusted with poverty in Mumbai. Because I really was appalled and disgusted. Disgusted that people were made to live in squalid, wretched conditions, like animals, by the roadside. [Even the street cat looked sad to me and I was sorry to see it too]. That these people were reduced to being panhandlers for their everyday subsistence. That this city should be called the City of Dreams [what dreams do these people have when all they have is sleepless nights wondering when the next meal would be?] and that the city boasts the highest land rates in the country and yet could not address the urban poor. And I was sad because I know it would take years, decades even if at all, to eradicate or alleviate this poverty problem. And mind you, I didn’t even see the Mumbai area of Dharavi which contains Asia’s largest slum. I remember thinking, if this is how it is in the big city, how is it like living in rural India? I’m not naïve nor ignorant and had braced myself for the worse but even then a first-hand experience and contact with the poverty and overwhelming destitution was still a surreal experience.

Dinner was an informal affair which started with finger foods. The waiters went around serving us so much so it got me wondering if that was all there was to dinner and that it was their interpretation of an informal dinner. Turned out there was substantial food served after all, after a presentation by our host. I am not a regular patron of Indian eateries and was picking at my dinner.

Monday, 28 August 2006. We checked out of the hotel early in the morning. I simply could not fault the hotel service and wonderful ambience save for the slow checkout. And we had a flight to catch too! Anyway, it was Finally done and we were taken to the domestic terminal to Mangalore.

As I have mentioned in my earlier posting, the search at the airport was severe. In fact, I think it bordered on paranoia. We had to have our cabin bags tagged, scanned, searched and then only after satisfying themselves that the hand luggage carried nothing in liquid form whatsoever would only the airport personnel verify our bag tags. I didn’t experience it when boarding the plane from KUL – in fact I double checked at the KLIA check-in counter that the rules were only applicable for flights out of the UK and for flights going into the USA – and so wasn’t happy when I had to part with my hand cream and face mist. It was only a domestic flight, within India, for God’s sake!

Our Jet Airways plane took off at 0945 and landed at Mangalore in the state of Karnataka at 1100. From my window seat, I could see the red earth alternating with green plantations below. Mangalore has a small tiny airport and we were then whisked off, sans our luggage which went directly to our hotel, to Dharmasthala, a town about 50 km away. The journey there took slightly over two hours though due to the bad roads which were narrow and red-caked at times. Surprisingly, there were actual, proper, standing brick houses along the way, not shacks or sheds or tents! It was a bumpy two-hour ride and I was beginning to get tired of being jostled here and there when we Finally reached the town, somewhere in rural India, shaken but not quite stirred.

We went to this guesthouse atop a hill operated by a trust, which also runs the local temple [which is pretty famous judging by the number of visitors from nearby towns]. It was a basic but comfortable looking guesthouse offering units of rooms and splendid views of the surrounding valleys. We were given a warm welcome – they really were very hospitable hosts – and after lunch, we were given a presentation of the programme being run by the trust before going to meet the president of the trust. Apparently he was some respected person and he was the one who initiated this programme to help the local poor. We then stopped at a local hospital on our way back to Mangalore to have an Up Close & Personal look at how the programme helps those who are hospitalised.

We endured another bumpy ride before reaching Mangalore and checking into Taj Manjarun Mangalore. After the luxurious Mumbai hotel stay, this hotel paled in comparison. But what it lacked in luxury was made up by the thoughtful performance put up by the Mangalorean hosts during dinner later that evening and also the wonderful and charming hotel shop where we discovered many beautiful souvenirs at very reasonable prices.

Now a bit on Mangalore: it’s a port city and gateway in the Karnataka state. Fishing is an important economic activity besides farming. Can’t say much else ‘cause we didn’t get a chance to wonder around!

We checked out the next day and made our way to the airport [which we got in the day before] at Bajpe, about 30 km from the city. Another winding and bumpy ride to the airport. Despite its size, we endured another round of intense check on our hand-carried bags.

Our noon flight out of Mangalore landed at Bangalore, the Silicone Valley of the East, in under an hour. We got served a simple breakfast despite the short duration. Interesting how they can manage to do that when all you get on a domestic flight to LGK aboard our national carrier is a drink!

Upon arrival at Bangalore [capital city of Karnataka state], we proceeded to Kolar, about 70 km away for another rural India experience. This time around, thankfully, the roads were considerably better. The journey still took about two hours as more vehicles plied the streets as is normally the case with better roads. From what I could see from my seat in the bus, Kolar has a sizeable Muslim population. We stopped at a local society for a brief presentation on the local programme and then went to visit two villages.

Another great Indian hospitality was had at the first village, it seemed the whole village had turned out in their best outfit to greet and welcome us. We were each given a flower garland, and err, a red dot rubbed on our foreheads. I wasn’t keen on having some red dot marking my forehead but told myself that it was their culture and custom and not religious [I hope I’m right on this thought!], and a welcome so grand it felt like a hero’s welcome home. I was feeling a tad embarrassed with the grand welcome for I didn’t feel worthy of such a welcome – I mean I’m hardly Angelina Jolie in Namibia! Nay, I’m no celebrity, just a foreign visitor trying to learn from them. Gosh, yes, it was simply humbling and amazing that there we were, from various countries, some from First World countries even, trying to learn a thing or two from these simple village folks.

We had a question-and-answer session with the villagers, trying to learn as much as we could from them. In turn, they were also curious as to the purpose of our visit.

We then hurried over to the next village [time was passing quickly] and this time, the villagers were predominantly Muslims and instead of working the land, they work in kilns. The Muslim villagers were probably wary of us and not many turned up to meet us. But from what little we could gather, it was evident that they welcomed such a programme. Anything to help them overcome their financial woes.

We didn’t stay long in the second village as we had to rush back to Bangalore. After enduring a horrible traffic jam in downtown Bangalore, we Finally reached Taj Gateway Hotel on Residency Road. Dinner was by the hotel poolside and there I met a French eye-candy. We turned in for an early night [if you consider 10.45 pm early!] as we had a very early morning flight to catch the next morning.

Wednesday, 30 August 2006. We were given a wake-up at an ungodly hour – 4 am! I think the phone must have rang for several minutes before the sound penetrated my foggy mind. Yup, our flight for Hyderabad was scheduled to depart at 0615 hours – and don’t forget we had to endure the horrible custom check again. We weren’t at all pleased to be billed USD180++ for a miserable 8.5-hour stay and we made this clearly known – and the rate was inclusive of breakfast which we never ate too – but the hotel staff was unyielding. If only we weren’t in a hurry to catch our flight. Daylight robbery is what I’d call it.

We landed at Hyderabad less than an hour after take-off and were brought to Taj Residency Hyderabad. Now Hyderabad, the capital of Andhra Pradesh state, is a predominantly Muslim city. We were given about two hours to Relax before our meeting started at 10 am. We were all feeling knackered but hey, the show must go on. The meeting continued until 5 pm.

A trip to Golconda Fort had been arranged and we left the hotel at 6 pm. Golconda Fort is probably 7 km away but there was heavy traffic along the way. I was getting sick and tired and feeling both homesick and a little bit under the weather by then, what with the Indian diet, the continuously bumpy coach rides and the incessant honking and so was really glad when we reached the area.

Golconda Fort stands atop an isolated hill and spreads over a radius of 3 km. Founded by the Kakatiyas in the 13th century, the existing structure was expanded by the Qutb Shahi kings into a massive fort of granite with walls and ramparts extending some 7 km in circumference. Now it lies deserted but in its heyday was the producer of the Kohinoor diamond and consequently the fortress city was famous for its diamond trade. The Hope Diamond and the Orloff Diamond of Catherine the Great are said to have originated from there too. The fort is famous for its built-in acoustic effects whereby handclaps at the entry gate could be heard at the top of the fort, some 69 metres high away.

We were there for a sound and light show [conducted in the evenings]. It was amazing – the structure was fantastic [I’ve always loved buildings and ruins] and quite well preserved, the show was enjoyable [and would be more if not for my full bladder!] and a feast to our eyes as much as our skin was a feast to the mosquitoes. The show lasted for about an hour.

We then made our way back to the city, stopping at Taj Krishna hotel for dinner. Now this hotel is opulent and tastefully decorated. Really a luxurious hotel. Back to the hotel at 11 pm; I was already half-asleep by then.

Thursday, 31 August 2006. Independence Day. Still feeling homesick and missing Mummy’s cooking. Plus living out of suitcases was getting to me. But the week was almost over, hurrah! Woke up after sleeping again after Suboh prayers and had a late breakfast. This morning, we had presentations by three different parties. Quite informative. We broke for lunch just after 1 pm. Catherine, the girl from South Africa, didn't join us the whole day - apparently she had a bad case of food poisoning; I suspected the cause was the sweets she bought from a roadside stall at Golconda. Oh dear.

Serap, the Washington-based Turkish lady, invited me to join her and Regina, a Brazilian lady, to go Shopping; Serap still hadn’t recovered her lost/missing luggage and desperately wanted to shop. I was sorely tempted but decided to join in a trip prepared to Salar Jung Museum instead. Score to Adek for resisting the Temptation to shop!

In the end, only four of us foreigners joined the trip, together with some reps from the host. I was glad I went there. Salar Jung Museum is located in Charminar and houses extensive and magnificent private collection of art objects of Nawab Salar Jung III such as exhibitions of European and Indian statuary. Words can’t even begin to describe these priceless, exquisite artefacts amassed from about 40 countries. I followed the troop wandering from one room to another – unfortunately, all visitors are allocated only half an hour in the museum, really unreasonable it seemed to me when there were 39 galleries in total – gazing around me in wonderment and amazement and delight. Oh by the way, no cameras are allowed here. It's difficult to believe all these pieces belonged to a single individual.

There is the musical clock from England where a toy wooden figure of man comes out three minutes early to every hour and strikes the corresponding hours on a gong and goes back inside, and there’s a blacksmith with a hammer who strikes the seconds away non-stop.


There is the ‘Veiled Rebecca’ statue from Italy, constructed from a single slab of marble, wearing clothes and sandals that aren’t quite there, now she was seriously anatomically perfectly carved.

There was the painting by Ed. Vander Haeghen [a Belgian] called ‘Stigma Diabolicum’; it’s a painting of an attempt to drive out evil spirits from a witch. The witch is stripped off and is lying down, restrained by some men, while a physician makes an incision at the side of her body. A few men from the church observe the procedure. You can clearly see the mark on the witch’s legs as she was being restrained and the terror on her face.

There are the three two-dimensional paintings of the Venetian Grand Canal, Piazza of San Marco and Venetian Grand Canal with Gondola by two Italian artists. You can see the paintings facing you if you stand at the extreme end on either side of the paintings. Amazing illusion. The paintings are also very detailed, depicting Venetian life once upon a time – even the marble statues atop a building are accurate and their shadows, together with other objects’ shadows, thoughtfully reflected as they bathe in the evening glow of the sun.

There is the wooden double statue. The side that faces you is that of the devil Mephistopheles while the other side of the figure reflected in the mirror placed strategically behind it is that of a good lady (Margaretta). This 19th century statue originates from France.

There are the Adrianne Rescued by Theseus and the Adrianne Abandoned by Theseus paintings.

There is the Glass Gallery, with an impressive collection of glass and crystal ware [Venetian, French, English, Bohemian, Istanbul, Belgium and Ireland]. I sighed looking at them all.

There is the Porcelain Gallery, with its magnificent collection of porcelain ware from England, Dresden and other parts of Europe. Another sigh escaped me.

We then proceeded to the adjacent Nizam’s Jewellery Gallery. A stricter requirement is imposed on all visitors here: no photography, carry bags, mobile phones allowed. Visitors are allocated a duration of visit limited to a similarly ridiculous half an hour. And a very thorough body search was conducted too, at least twice.

And you can see the reason why as you step in the gallery. Rows of rows of rows of magnificent jewellery in various shapes and sizes – rings, necklaces, anklets, custom decorations, head gear decorations, belts – sit in glass displays in all their splendour. Fantastic. Stupendous. Breathtaking. Amazing. Stunningly beautiful. I can go on and on and yet the words will not do them justice. It’s just amazing that all these jewellery were assembled in those days of yore where cutting edge technology was still unavailable. The diamonds cut to perfection, the gigantic pearls, the enormous emeralds from Colombia, the rich red rubies – they were all carefully selected from only the very best and it must have taken a thousand oysters to find similarly perfect gigantic luminous pearls, a thousand feet of mining to get that perfect green emeralds and red rubies... it’s mind-boggling really. I oohed and aahed at each display. Yes, I was glad I chose to visit the museum instead of going Shopping.

We made our way back to the city [me reluctantly] and braved the mad evening traffic, passing the magnificent Charminar edifice. This is like the landmark of Hyderabad and is 400 years old. Built by ruler Mohd Quli Qutb Shah, it stands imposingly at 180 feet tall. The four minarets soar to the height of almost 49 metres each above the ground. A small mosque is located on the roof of the edifice. All around Charminar is a bustling bazaar of pearl and jewellery shops etc [too bad we didn’t stop!].

We left the hotel at 7.30 pm for dinner at ITC Sheraton hotel. By then, I’d gotten used to having finger foods served before the main meal. I was, however, feeling uncomfortable at the sight of the poor waiters; they were of small built and (despite lacking in size) really bent over backwards in their eagerness to serve us foreigners [actually it was more of bending forward as they bowed themselves]. The thing was, I don’t think anyone [including the local Indian bigwigs] cared about or noticed them hovering in the background, trying desperately to entice the guests with their offering of food. I don’t know why but I felt it unfair that they didn’t get their due recognition for their thankless task. And yes, the scant attention given to them really made it appear a thankless job. I really felt for them. I mean, yes, they are waiters but don’t they deserve some attention and words of appreciation? I felt for them so much that I stuffed almost every vegetarian and seafood finger food shoved my way because I couldn’t stand watching them standing there, patiently trying to get our attention while balancing the heavy trays. I was quite relieved when the host announced dinner was ready, relieved that the waiters be relieved of their thankless job.

Friday, 1 September 2006. Meeting continued and ended just in time for lunch. I didn’t partake any; instead I rushed back to my room to perform prayers, packed and then checked out. Left my luggage with the concierge [should have brought the Delsey trolley bag instead as my Samsonite was already bursting at the seams, and not with Shopping merchandises but with documents and materials!]. I then met Serap and we went Shopping [her missing luggage had Finally been recovered and just as we were about to depart India for good too!]. There are a few shops in the city which stock beautiful Kashmiri products – carpets, cushion covers etc. I Finally managed to buy a marble plate [been wanting to buy one ever since I saw a documentary on India]. I then went to Hyderabad Central Shopping Mall and as I didn’t find anything to my fancy, I then walked about in the city, yes, in the hot afternoon sun and polluted environment.

Got back to the hotel at 6 pm and after consulting the hotel staff, I decided to be adventurous and venture to Abids by auto rickshaw. It was an experience alright and I almost screamed a few times when I thought our rickshaw was about to collide into another vehicle. Abids is in another part of the city and has stores selling mainly saree materials and jewellery. I spent about an hour there before returning to the hotel.

I met Serap in the lobby and she kindly offered me to use her room. I was thankful for I was desperate to wash off the dirt and dust of Hyderabad off me. After performing prayers, a quick shower and wolfing down a cup of instant noodles, we left the hotel for the airport. It was only 10 pm and our flights were both at 0115 hours the following morning but the host was anxious that we’d get caught in the traffic. We weren’t caught in the road traffic but by the human traffic at the airport! I think a quarter of the city was there sending off some distant relative [think of the troop that gather to send off Haj jemaah at Kelana Jaya] so we practically had to push our way through to enter the building.

Another Crazy check-in procedure and check on body and hand luggage was endured. I got asked if I was standing at the right check-in counter, thanks to my trademark-flying outfit again. We went through the custom immediately, there was a long queue we had to join anyway.

There were only a few shops in the waiting area. Serap and I then went into the airport lounge to rest. We’ve become quite close over the past week and saying goodbyes is never easy. Her Lufthansa flight departed in time I think while mine got delayed and we only took off an hour after the scheduled time. It was an Airbus A-300 and nowhere as posh as the Boeing I travelled in a week earlier but I was too shattered to care. As the chap behind me kept kicking my seat, yes despite the leg space [imagine what havoc he’d create in economoney class], I changed seats to the first row [talk about being kiasu!]. I was barely in dreamland when a stewardess tripped over my foot in her attempt to close the window shutters, waking me up again. Grrr…

Oh and they referred to me in saccharine sweet voices too.

Saturday, 2 September 2006. Landed at KLIA at 0850 hours local time and reached micasa less than two hours later.