Thursday, 25 December 2008/Christmas Day
No Country For Old People
An early start to today. Abah came to send me to KL Sentral. Arrived at LCCT at 0630 and immediately checked in. Lots of travellers today. Sat next to a female Caucasian sitting alone and we were joined by another Asian girl travelling alone too. Tried to sleep but not too successful.
The Asian girl and I started chatting to each other just before we landed at Wattay International Airport, Vientiane. She introduced herself as Andrea and she was from Manila.
The immigration procedure took some time but at least as Asians, we did not have to get visa on arrival – and parted with money ranging from USD30-42 depending on nationality for visa fee, an additional USD1 for photo and a long wait for the visa before joining the queue to clear immigration. Still, welcome to Lao P.D.R. (People’s Democratic Country or Please Don’t Rush). Laos is an hour behind us.
The contact I’d been in touch with for months now couldn’t bring us around as her husband had an appointment at 11 so Andrea and I shared a cab to the city, well, to Nazim Restaurant specifically (as suggested by the husband of my contact). It seemed that all cabbies know where Nazim Restaurant is. Nazim is a halal Indian eatery and Halim who came to greet us (and whose name was recommended to us) very kindly agreed to let us store our bags behind the counter for no charge at all. How’s that for trust and kindness? We decided to have a light meal before setting off to explore the city. It was then when Andrea asked if I was Chinese (she is a Filipino Chinese and a Buddhist despite being baptised at birth). I replied I didn’t know as the people who knew it are all long gone. We continued eating before she asked again, ‘Why are your eyes of different colour?’ I burst out laughing and told her I was wondering when anyone would ask me that before explaining why.
We then walked to the Lao National Museum opposite the street from the majestic Lao National Culture Hall but unfortunately it was closed for lunch (lunchtime is early there!) so we continued our way to Patuxay or Victory Gate passing the That Dam (Black Stupa) along the way. According to the legend, the Black Stupa was guarded by a seven-headed dragon which would protect the city from any Siamese invasion – which it obviously failed to do, hence why it is little worshipped and explains its decaying surface. Patuxay is a local rendition of the Arc de Triomphe. One can climb up to the seventh floor for a view of downtown Vientiane.
We spent some time here before continuing on. It was a very bright and hot noon and we sought refuge from the sun at Talat Sao (morning market, which despite its name, remains open until 4 pm) before walking on. Before we knew it, we had reached Wat Sisaket (now signposted as Sisaket Museum). Wat Sisaket is the oldest standing temple in Vientiane (it is the only temple to survive Siamese invasions).
Wat Ho Phra Keo is just diagonally across the street from Wat Sisaket but we only took pictures from afar as there was an entrance charge. It’s a beautiful temple and looked newly restored.
The Presidential Palace is just next door to Wat Ho Phra Keo.
We headed back to the National Museum and spent some time there (entrance fee: 10,000 Kip). The ground floor tells of the history of Lao – including prehistoric dinosaur bones found in Laos and one of the original jars from the Plain of Jars. The first floor tells of the different ethnics of Laos and the history of the country from the first European visits (by the Dutch) to the invasion by the French and then the Americans much later, and the heroic struggles of the Laotians for independence.
We then returned back to Nazim for a late lunch before parting ways. Andrea was staying in Vientiane for two nights while I was flying out to Luang Prabang that very evening. We promised to meet up again in Luang Prabang.
My originally scheduled 1700 flight to Luang Prabang was delayed to 1830 (which I only discovered when I reached the airport at 1600. Duh!). It was already dark by the time took off (sunset was at 1740) and we landed 35 minutes later. As we were descending, I saw the ‘glowing green’ light emanating from That Phousi mountain and I thought, ‘I must climb it one day!’.
I endured another 25 minutes of waiting for the miserable tuk tuk driver who was supposed to meet me and when he finally appeared, he led me to a van driver. There was some confusion between the two before I figured that I would be taking the van but that I needed to buy ticket for it first at the taxi counter. Ahh, I could have done that myself 25 minutes earlier instead of pacing up and down looking for the oaf and waiting for someone who was supposed to wait for me! It just didn’t make sense. I was getting knackered (it had indeed been a long day) and I was starting to seethe at being made to wait that I replied curtly to the van driver’s questions and declined his offer to bring me around.
I reached my guesthouse at almost 8 pm. There was a resident snoopy doggy dog unfortunately much to my unease. I was chatting with Vieng, the guesthouse owner, asking if it would rain the next day (as BBC predicted it would). She frowned and said it was cloudy that morning but the day cleared. And she saw no reason why it would rain, as it was the dry season and it hadn’t rained for a while. I was asking her about some tours around the city when I sensed something on my left and –
- yelped out aloud in surprise, scaring the poor dog out of its wits (which was a good thing for he avoided me after that). My room was charming and I didn’t even need to turn on the air-conditioning unit as it was c-c-cold.
Friday, 26 December 2008: Boxing Day
Rain/Country Road
Besides the resident snoopy, there was also a neighbourhood rooster which I discovered starts its daily crow from as early as 3 am or so every morning without fail (and keeps crowing until after 6). Oh, I so felt like slaughtering it.
After breakfast and getting a map of the city, I walked to the city centre, stopping at Dala Market and passing Moung Market. I walked on along the main thoroughfare of Luang Prabang, the Sisavangvong Road, all the way up to Thongnathao Road at which Sisavangvong Road ends and Sakkarine Road begins. I passed some shops, a bank, the Luang Prabang Museum (previously the palace of the Kings of Luang Prabang) and some vat on one side of the road while on the other side is the hill and steps leading up to That Phousi. As I walked on, I came upon more restaurants, cafes, travel agents, banks and exchange offices and guesthouses, all very charming indeed. Little wonder why the former royal capital of Laos and seat of government of the Kingdom of Laos until the Communist takeover in 1975 is a UNESCO World Heritage city. (Those outdoor enthusiasts and adventurers would love Luang Prabang as it offers opportunities for trekking, kayaking and other outdoor activities. Those more adventurous can sign up for cooking classes – Lao food is unique because there are not many Laotians who travel abroad to spread their cooking experience and being landlocked, they previously couldn’t spread this influence either. They use a lot of herbs, mint leaves and lemongrass. Err, I’m not that adventurous.)
I turned right at the intersection and went down Thongnathao Road to Nam Khan River. I could see a bamboo bridge down below spanning the river and on the other side of the river were agricultural farms on the slope of the riverbank. In the distance were cloud-capped mountains still embraced by the lingering morning mist. I went down to the bridge to take some pictures and discovered that one would have to pay a toll for crossing.
I walked on along the river and around the bends of the river until I came upon another bamboo bridge. Just around the bend is where the Nam Khan River meets the mighty Mekong River. I continued on, this time along the Mekong, passing Vat Xieng Thong (supposedly the most famous temple in the city and the whole of Laos but not that much to look at) and marvelling at the charming guesthouses, which while seem to be sprouting everywhere were not intrusive in their presence. Oh and no buildings in the city are more than two-storey high.
I returned to Sisavangvong Road (hereafter to be referred to as the main street) and hurried back to the guesthouse as I was joining an 1130 tour to Kuangsi Waterfall Park.
The van arrived 20 minutes late. I was the last passenger and soon we were off. Kuangsi Waterfall Park is only 30 km away but the journey was on winding Country Road, past small villages and paddy fields and we only arrived at the park at 1230. The entrance fee was 20,000 Kip.
The falls were a series of waterfalls and pools and more falls and pools further down. There are some areas where one can swim should one want to but it was a cold day. It had begun to drizzle somewhat steadily now from the intermittent drizzle earlier. Fortunately I managed to seek refuge beneath the tree shelters. There was also a bear rescue centre (Tat Kuang Si Bear Rescue Centre) in the area where some bears were rescued from hunters, kept and nursed back to health. I bought a long-sleeved t-shirt at the centre. Hey, Be A Gooner, Be A Giver.
We left at 1400 and it was raining more heavily then. I was about to doze off when the van stopped. The driver announced ‘Tribe Village’ and clearly expected us to go out so we did just that. But seriously, no one was in the mood to walk around or shop as it was raining and we were getting wet. We left after 20 minutes or so.
I rested and went out after dark to the main street to search for Andrea’s guesthouse, find dinner and book a trip to the Pak Ou Caves (Buddha Caves). I managed to borrow a brolly from Vieng but if anything, the rain was falling even more heavily than ever. I was actually singing in the rain, OK humming, ‘Why Does It Always Rain On Me’ on my way to and fro. The rain also dampened my mood to shop at the night market (not many stalls were operating anyway). Dinner was held at Nazim Restaurant, a branch of the one in Vientiane. It was very packed and I had to wait 20 hungry minutes for my order. Nothing fancy, just plain old fried chicken rice but it tasted different from the one I had for lunch just a day earlier in Vientiane (the rice seemed stickier). As I struggled to finish my dinner, I thought to myself, ‘If I have to eat this again tomorrow night, I will cry.’ Not for me are briyani or naan or roti.
Saturday, 27 December 2008
Raindrops Keep Falling On My Head/Patience Of Angels/Beautiful Day
I woke up to the sound of rain - golly it must have rained All Night Long! After an early breakfast, I brisk-walked to the main street to meet up my tour group to the Buddha Caves. We were told to be there before eight but we only walked to the river at 0810 and only boarded the slow boat at 0900. Yes, this is Lao P.D.R. Please Don’t Rush and you need the Patience Of Angels to be here. The ‘ticket office’ would write down everyone’s name down (regardless of which tour group you joined) laboriously - and that took a long time of course. Feel free to browse the shops while you wait and wait and wait.
There were only six passengers in addition to the ‘driver’ allowed on any one small boat (there were some big ones that could carry dozens but these were few and far between). After 75 minutes of travelling upstream against the currents of the mighty Mekong and a fuel/engine check stop, we stopped at Bang Xang Hai village (a village specialising in producing whisky products besides silk textiles) for 20 minutes before continuing on for a further 15 minutes to the caves. It was still a cloudy morning and on both sides of the river, we could see small farms alternating with forests. Mountains rose in the distance accompanied by the mist. Strangely enough though was the absence of birds. I didn’t see even a single bird (except for the few captured small birds at the caves that some boy wanted to sell for USD1 each) flying in the forest, perching on the tree branches or on rock islands of the river or flying low over the water to make a kill. Not a single bird. Very, very strange indeed.
We finally reached the caves and after paying the entrance fee (surprise, surprise) of LAK20,000, we were free to explore the lower (Tham Ting) and upper (Tham Theung) caves. These two caves housed hundreds of Buddha statues of varying size, shape and form. The Upper Cave was a strenuous hike up the stupid steps so much so I was thinking, ‘This is like going up the Great Wall of China!’ The caves were nowhere as gorgeous as Thiên Cung and Dao Go caves of Halong but, hey, they housed Buddha statues. We spent 50 minutes before getting back on the boat and heading back to Luang Prabang.
I had lunch at Tamarind Restaurant which serves Lao cuisine (wanted to have dinner there the next before but it was packed) as recommended by Wikitravel and joined a Lao-born girl who was raised in the States and now works in Hong Kong. She was in the city to visit her grandparents who live in a village across Nam Khan River. We walked out together and to my surprise, she pointed out her guesthouse. I asked if her grandparents minded this arrangement and she said no, adding that there was no flushing bathroom at her grandparents’, she would have to sleep on the floor... bla bla bla. I looked at her and thought, ‘You don’t know how lucky you are to still have a village/kampong you can go back to and to still have grandparents.’ I don’t even have a kampong and never even met my grandparents.
The sun finally broke through the clouds and I walked along Nam Khan River going the opposite direction to the route I took a day earlier in search of Andrea’s guesthouse. I didn’t find it and only managed to find the exact location (it sure was little known!) when I asked at Rama Hotel.
I went back for prayers and was out again 20 minutes later. Walked to Xayana Guesthouse and was told that Andrea had checked in and left her room. Walked along the main street hoping to bump into her all the way to the end of Sakkarine Road before retracing my steps. It was almost 5 pm and I thought I might as well climb That Phousi. It was a 328-step climb to the top (and yes there was an entrance fee of LAK20,000 but of course) and having huffed and puffed all the way up, I thought I might as well stay for the sunset. So I went around Vat Chamsi Stupa, enjoying a bird’s eye-view of the city. I was snapping a photo when I heard my name being called and felt a tap on my shoulder. It was Andrea! So we were reunited there.
We stayed until sunset before making our way down (I didn’t see any lights marking the way so I hoped no one fell to their death on their way down). We checked out the night market and tested our bargaining skills.
We had street food for dinner – there was this stall selling vegetarian dishes and all the food you can fill in the plate cost only LAK5,000. You pick your food and hand it to a woman who would fry the food (and hence get rid of the bacteria if any). There were some benches and tables at a side street where you can then have your dinner and this street (and the stall) is at the left street off the main road after the bank. The seller is there every night (I saw him and his customers the night before in the rain but didn’t stop to check out what he was selling). Good food at very reasonable price! I was satisfied.
Feeling energised, we continued window shopping before buying some souvenirs. We returned to our respective guesthouses at 2030 after having agreed to meet the following morning to watch the monk procession.
Sunday, 28 December 2008: Eve of New Hijrah Year
The Terminal/Sunday Bloody Sunday/No Country For Impatient Girl
I left the guesthouse after morning prayers and met up Andrea near her guesthouse. We walked up the main street unsure of where the monk procession would take place. The monks were late in appearing, we only sighted them after 0630 (and to think we were advised to go as early as 6 am!). The monks appeared in batches at various spots but the groups of alms-givers and monks were the largest at the Sisavangvong/Sakkarine/Thongnathao intersection. The monks were all bare-footed when collecting alms and each had a sling basket to store the food they received (sticky rice, fruits, etc). There were some young boys who stood back with their pails and plastic bags to collect the excess food (monks whose baskets were almost full would give the excess food to the boys). At first I thought they were novice monks or apprentices minus their robes then I gathered that they were poor kids who profited from the excess food received by the monks.
We walked along the road after the procession was over and I showed Andrea the bamboo bridges. We parted ways at a quarter to eight. I returned to my guesthouse to pack and have breakfast.
After breakfast, I went to the National Museum. As in most other establishments in Luang Prabang (except for restaurants), we have to take off our shoes and walk barefooted in the museum. The museum showcased the royal possessions, the furniture and wardrobe used, and the diplomatic gifts received in its various rooms. There was also a garage housing the royal vehicles outside the building towards the rear of the museum grounds.
I had some vegetarian street noodle before returning to the guesthouse.
The tuk tuk I requested came ten minutes late and I was surprised to see a woman, a girl and a boy in the tuk tuk. They refused to budge or move despite the urgings of the driver and I had to struggle to get in, with my luggage and all. After a while, after having observed them and heard their conversation, I turned and asked, ‘Korea?’ The woman gave a small nod without deigning a smile or a nod. I said ‘Ahn nyoung haseyo’ (spelling?) but was ignored and I said loudly, ‘Wow, not very friendly, are you.’ Most people would be civilised enough to take that as a hint to start a conversation or even if they don’t want to, would still say hello back with a tone that suggest that conversation will not continue.
The driver drove on and I was preparing myself for the artic chill emanating from my snotty snobbish hoity-toity fellow passengers when the tuk tuk stopped. The driver got down and asked the three to board another tuk tuk across the street. Ahh, I figured then that they simply hailed my tuk tuk earlier and insisted on riding it. Whatever. This time, it was me who had the smug satisfaction of seeing them vacate the seats they so refused to budge from only minutes earlier. I even called out to them, ‘Oww, too bad ain’t it!,’ not without some glee. Yes, I can be so evil.
Unfortunately for me, I couldn’t board the 1310 flight and all because I didn’t confirm my ticket. What? I didn’t know people still do that. I can’t even remember the last time I had to confirm my ticket and the last time I did that, I was told there was no longer any need to do so. The chap behind the counter said I must do so for Lao Airlines. I was made to wait before he arranged for me to take the next flight out at 1600. Boy, a long wait indeed but at least I had my novel with me.
The view from the airplane was fantastic. Rugged mountains formed the view for the most part of the journey before plains appeared with their rivers, agricultural fields and towns. I also saw Nam Ngum Lakes from afar.
No one at the domestic taxi counter knew where Champa Guesthouse was (arranged by an acquaintance of my contact who was supposed to arrange for my lodging in Laos) despite calling it reluctantly at my request (they must have dialled a wrong digit). I was beginning to get impatient and marched on to the international terminal and guess what? There was no one manning the taxi counter. I waited and waited and finally lost my patience. I marched out and made my way to the main road, pulling my trolley bag behind me. A cab driver asked me if I needed taxi and I snapped back, ‘How can I take a taxi out of the airport when there was no one at the counter?’ and walked on. Another driver called out, ‘Miss, where are you going?’ to which I snapped, ‘I’m going to Champa Guesthouse, if you know where that is!’ and stormed off.
Sorry guys, you were just at the wrong place at the wrong time. But seriously, I was starting to swear at the way things are done in Laos, at how slow everyone moves, at how little they value time – if at all. No, I didn’t get lost in Laos but I did lose my temper. Oh dearie me.
I saw a tuk tuk at the main road. He quoted a very reasonable LAK20,000 and I told him to take me to the only place I knew which could help me out: Nazim Restaurant.
The guy at Nazim very kindly called up the stupid guesthouse and obtained the directions for me. I thanked him profusely and left. It was at a remote area near the stadium and when I arrived, I was quoted a figure higher than what I expected to pay. I could feel my anger returning. She quickly said it would be USD18 for a single room and I said, ‘Yes, I’m alone’ and looked around wondering if she could see someone else beside me. Like duh!
I viewed the room; it was alright but the guesthouse was a bit off the main area and I told the girl that if I didn’t return in two hours, she was free to let it out to someone else. And so I started my search for a new place. It was almost dusk then and there I was, wandering around looking for a place to spend the night. It was then I realised that guesthouses in Vientiane are a far cry from the ones in Luang Prabang. No character, most are seedy and sleazy. I shuddered at the sight of some of them. I finally found one (Phornthip Guesthouse, near Vat Inpeng) but later that night thought, heck, my room looked seedy too. Still, there was a fridge and a TV (which I didn’t enjoy in Luang Prabang).
I walked to the Mekong promenade to find dinner. There were dozens of stalls operating, offering all kinds of food: grilled fish and seafood (squids, prawns), grilled chicken and other meat and something that looked like some animal organ. I stopped at one stall and peered at its containers of food. There was one that caught my attention and I stared and stared wondering what it was before comprehension dawned and I went ‘Arrrkkk! Those are frogs! Euwww!’ and quickly walked off.
I finally had dinner at Fathima, another halal Indian eatery.
Monday, 29 December 2008: Islamic New Year
Feels Like Summer
I couldn’t sleep much the night before. I kept hearing someone stir-frying something and people talking. I could even smell the dish at times too. And after hearing Andrea’s story of having potential bed bugs as sleeping partner, I was afraid to lie down in my bed too. So I thought maybe I should find another place for tonight.
After breakfast, I wandered to find the Vientiane Jamia Masjid. It’s located near Nampu (fountain square). Then I wandered around the area and found a guesthouse which looked so much better. Back to Phornthip and told the lady with the perpetual frown (she also looked like she was going to burst into tears any minute) that I wanted to check out.
I checked into Phonepaseuth Guesthouse before 11 am. Went to a bank to change money and then walked to Talat Kua Din (a small market selling mostly fruits and vegetables) before going to Talat Sao Mall (the food court was a joke) and the adjoining Talat Sao (Morning Market). Some of the souvenirs sold were quite different from those sold at the Luang Prabang Night Market. I spent some time but was generally disappointed.
I re-emerged into the hot afternoon and went to a vegetarian restaurant next to the Lao Cultural Hall Centre. Its name? Hallelujah Vegetarian Restaurant, I kid you not. There was a daily lunch buffet Unfortunately, most dishes were finished but I enjoyed my lunch all the same.
I hurried back to the guesthouse to rest. Ventured out after evening prayers and went for a two-hour massage (half an hour foot massage, one hour traditional Lao massage – not unlike a Thai massage - and half an hour of herbal massage) and it cost less than USD14 (and less than RM48!)! Dinner was again had at Fathima Restaurant and I discovered a fourth halal Indian resto.
Tuesday, 30 December 2008
Coming Home
Another early start to the day. Had breakfast at 0745 and checked out by 0830. Went in search of a tuk tuk and finally managed to strike a bargain with a driver to take me to the airport for LAK20,000 which was what I paid two days ago anyway. The flight was supposed to take off at 1005 but only took off way after 1030 as a result of which we landed late. It was a long walk to the terminal from the plane and I was surprised to see the new wing of the terminal. There are now six conveyor belts as opposed to only two previously. Sadly, this didn’t speed things up: I managed to visit the bathroom, went to 7-11, bought a cup of instant noodles, prepared it and ate it slowly (I don’t like eating hot food) and still our bags hadn’t appeared. I could only take the 1515 bus back to KL (more than an hour since we landed I’m sure).
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My heartfelt appreciation and gratitude to dear SK who took the trouble to text me Arsenal match results. Muchos gracias amigo!
No Country For Old People
An early start to today. Abah came to send me to KL Sentral. Arrived at LCCT at 0630 and immediately checked in. Lots of travellers today. Sat next to a female Caucasian sitting alone and we were joined by another Asian girl travelling alone too. Tried to sleep but not too successful.
The Asian girl and I started chatting to each other just before we landed at Wattay International Airport, Vientiane. She introduced herself as Andrea and she was from Manila.
The immigration procedure took some time but at least as Asians, we did not have to get visa on arrival – and parted with money ranging from USD30-42 depending on nationality for visa fee, an additional USD1 for photo and a long wait for the visa before joining the queue to clear immigration. Still, welcome to Lao P.D.R. (People’s Democratic Country or Please Don’t Rush). Laos is an hour behind us.
The contact I’d been in touch with for months now couldn’t bring us around as her husband had an appointment at 11 so Andrea and I shared a cab to the city, well, to Nazim Restaurant specifically (as suggested by the husband of my contact). It seemed that all cabbies know where Nazim Restaurant is. Nazim is a halal Indian eatery and Halim who came to greet us (and whose name was recommended to us) very kindly agreed to let us store our bags behind the counter for no charge at all. How’s that for trust and kindness? We decided to have a light meal before setting off to explore the city. It was then when Andrea asked if I was Chinese (she is a Filipino Chinese and a Buddhist despite being baptised at birth). I replied I didn’t know as the people who knew it are all long gone. We continued eating before she asked again, ‘Why are your eyes of different colour?’ I burst out laughing and told her I was wondering when anyone would ask me that before explaining why.
We then walked to the Lao National Museum opposite the street from the majestic Lao National Culture Hall but unfortunately it was closed for lunch (lunchtime is early there!) so we continued our way to Patuxay or Victory Gate passing the That Dam (Black Stupa) along the way. According to the legend, the Black Stupa was guarded by a seven-headed dragon which would protect the city from any Siamese invasion – which it obviously failed to do, hence why it is little worshipped and explains its decaying surface. Patuxay is a local rendition of the Arc de Triomphe. One can climb up to the seventh floor for a view of downtown Vientiane.
We spent some time here before continuing on. It was a very bright and hot noon and we sought refuge from the sun at Talat Sao (morning market, which despite its name, remains open until 4 pm) before walking on. Before we knew it, we had reached Wat Sisaket (now signposted as Sisaket Museum). Wat Sisaket is the oldest standing temple in Vientiane (it is the only temple to survive Siamese invasions).
Wat Ho Phra Keo is just diagonally across the street from Wat Sisaket but we only took pictures from afar as there was an entrance charge. It’s a beautiful temple and looked newly restored.
The Presidential Palace is just next door to Wat Ho Phra Keo.
We headed back to the National Museum and spent some time there (entrance fee: 10,000 Kip). The ground floor tells of the history of Lao – including prehistoric dinosaur bones found in Laos and one of the original jars from the Plain of Jars. The first floor tells of the different ethnics of Laos and the history of the country from the first European visits (by the Dutch) to the invasion by the French and then the Americans much later, and the heroic struggles of the Laotians for independence.
We then returned back to Nazim for a late lunch before parting ways. Andrea was staying in Vientiane for two nights while I was flying out to Luang Prabang that very evening. We promised to meet up again in Luang Prabang.
My originally scheduled 1700 flight to Luang Prabang was delayed to 1830 (which I only discovered when I reached the airport at 1600. Duh!). It was already dark by the time took off (sunset was at 1740) and we landed 35 minutes later. As we were descending, I saw the ‘glowing green’ light emanating from That Phousi mountain and I thought, ‘I must climb it one day!’.
I endured another 25 minutes of waiting for the miserable tuk tuk driver who was supposed to meet me and when he finally appeared, he led me to a van driver. There was some confusion between the two before I figured that I would be taking the van but that I needed to buy ticket for it first at the taxi counter. Ahh, I could have done that myself 25 minutes earlier instead of pacing up and down looking for the oaf and waiting for someone who was supposed to wait for me! It just didn’t make sense. I was getting knackered (it had indeed been a long day) and I was starting to seethe at being made to wait that I replied curtly to the van driver’s questions and declined his offer to bring me around.
I reached my guesthouse at almost 8 pm. There was a resident snoopy doggy dog unfortunately much to my unease. I was chatting with Vieng, the guesthouse owner, asking if it would rain the next day (as BBC predicted it would). She frowned and said it was cloudy that morning but the day cleared. And she saw no reason why it would rain, as it was the dry season and it hadn’t rained for a while. I was asking her about some tours around the city when I sensed something on my left and –
- yelped out aloud in surprise, scaring the poor dog out of its wits (which was a good thing for he avoided me after that). My room was charming and I didn’t even need to turn on the air-conditioning unit as it was c-c-cold.
Friday, 26 December 2008: Boxing Day
Rain/Country Road
Besides the resident snoopy, there was also a neighbourhood rooster which I discovered starts its daily crow from as early as 3 am or so every morning without fail (and keeps crowing until after 6). Oh, I so felt like slaughtering it.
After breakfast and getting a map of the city, I walked to the city centre, stopping at Dala Market and passing Moung Market. I walked on along the main thoroughfare of Luang Prabang, the Sisavangvong Road, all the way up to Thongnathao Road at which Sisavangvong Road ends and Sakkarine Road begins. I passed some shops, a bank, the Luang Prabang Museum (previously the palace of the Kings of Luang Prabang) and some vat on one side of the road while on the other side is the hill and steps leading up to That Phousi. As I walked on, I came upon more restaurants, cafes, travel agents, banks and exchange offices and guesthouses, all very charming indeed. Little wonder why the former royal capital of Laos and seat of government of the Kingdom of Laos until the Communist takeover in 1975 is a UNESCO World Heritage city. (Those outdoor enthusiasts and adventurers would love Luang Prabang as it offers opportunities for trekking, kayaking and other outdoor activities. Those more adventurous can sign up for cooking classes – Lao food is unique because there are not many Laotians who travel abroad to spread their cooking experience and being landlocked, they previously couldn’t spread this influence either. They use a lot of herbs, mint leaves and lemongrass. Err, I’m not that adventurous.)
I turned right at the intersection and went down Thongnathao Road to Nam Khan River. I could see a bamboo bridge down below spanning the river and on the other side of the river were agricultural farms on the slope of the riverbank. In the distance were cloud-capped mountains still embraced by the lingering morning mist. I went down to the bridge to take some pictures and discovered that one would have to pay a toll for crossing.
I walked on along the river and around the bends of the river until I came upon another bamboo bridge. Just around the bend is where the Nam Khan River meets the mighty Mekong River. I continued on, this time along the Mekong, passing Vat Xieng Thong (supposedly the most famous temple in the city and the whole of Laos but not that much to look at) and marvelling at the charming guesthouses, which while seem to be sprouting everywhere were not intrusive in their presence. Oh and no buildings in the city are more than two-storey high.
I returned to Sisavangvong Road (hereafter to be referred to as the main street) and hurried back to the guesthouse as I was joining an 1130 tour to Kuangsi Waterfall Park.
The van arrived 20 minutes late. I was the last passenger and soon we were off. Kuangsi Waterfall Park is only 30 km away but the journey was on winding Country Road, past small villages and paddy fields and we only arrived at the park at 1230. The entrance fee was 20,000 Kip.
The falls were a series of waterfalls and pools and more falls and pools further down. There are some areas where one can swim should one want to but it was a cold day. It had begun to drizzle somewhat steadily now from the intermittent drizzle earlier. Fortunately I managed to seek refuge beneath the tree shelters. There was also a bear rescue centre (Tat Kuang Si Bear Rescue Centre) in the area where some bears were rescued from hunters, kept and nursed back to health. I bought a long-sleeved t-shirt at the centre. Hey, Be A Gooner, Be A Giver.
We left at 1400 and it was raining more heavily then. I was about to doze off when the van stopped. The driver announced ‘Tribe Village’ and clearly expected us to go out so we did just that. But seriously, no one was in the mood to walk around or shop as it was raining and we were getting wet. We left after 20 minutes or so.
I rested and went out after dark to the main street to search for Andrea’s guesthouse, find dinner and book a trip to the Pak Ou Caves (Buddha Caves). I managed to borrow a brolly from Vieng but if anything, the rain was falling even more heavily than ever. I was actually singing in the rain, OK humming, ‘Why Does It Always Rain On Me’ on my way to and fro. The rain also dampened my mood to shop at the night market (not many stalls were operating anyway). Dinner was held at Nazim Restaurant, a branch of the one in Vientiane. It was very packed and I had to wait 20 hungry minutes for my order. Nothing fancy, just plain old fried chicken rice but it tasted different from the one I had for lunch just a day earlier in Vientiane (the rice seemed stickier). As I struggled to finish my dinner, I thought to myself, ‘If I have to eat this again tomorrow night, I will cry.’ Not for me are briyani or naan or roti.
Saturday, 27 December 2008
Raindrops Keep Falling On My Head/Patience Of Angels/Beautiful Day
I woke up to the sound of rain - golly it must have rained All Night Long! After an early breakfast, I brisk-walked to the main street to meet up my tour group to the Buddha Caves. We were told to be there before eight but we only walked to the river at 0810 and only boarded the slow boat at 0900. Yes, this is Lao P.D.R. Please Don’t Rush and you need the Patience Of Angels to be here. The ‘ticket office’ would write down everyone’s name down (regardless of which tour group you joined) laboriously - and that took a long time of course. Feel free to browse the shops while you wait and wait and wait.
There were only six passengers in addition to the ‘driver’ allowed on any one small boat (there were some big ones that could carry dozens but these were few and far between). After 75 minutes of travelling upstream against the currents of the mighty Mekong and a fuel/engine check stop, we stopped at Bang Xang Hai village (a village specialising in producing whisky products besides silk textiles) for 20 minutes before continuing on for a further 15 minutes to the caves. It was still a cloudy morning and on both sides of the river, we could see small farms alternating with forests. Mountains rose in the distance accompanied by the mist. Strangely enough though was the absence of birds. I didn’t see even a single bird (except for the few captured small birds at the caves that some boy wanted to sell for USD1 each) flying in the forest, perching on the tree branches or on rock islands of the river or flying low over the water to make a kill. Not a single bird. Very, very strange indeed.
We finally reached the caves and after paying the entrance fee (surprise, surprise) of LAK20,000, we were free to explore the lower (Tham Ting) and upper (Tham Theung) caves. These two caves housed hundreds of Buddha statues of varying size, shape and form. The Upper Cave was a strenuous hike up the stupid steps so much so I was thinking, ‘This is like going up the Great Wall of China!’ The caves were nowhere as gorgeous as Thiên Cung and Dao Go caves of Halong but, hey, they housed Buddha statues. We spent 50 minutes before getting back on the boat and heading back to Luang Prabang.
I had lunch at Tamarind Restaurant which serves Lao cuisine (wanted to have dinner there the next before but it was packed) as recommended by Wikitravel and joined a Lao-born girl who was raised in the States and now works in Hong Kong. She was in the city to visit her grandparents who live in a village across Nam Khan River. We walked out together and to my surprise, she pointed out her guesthouse. I asked if her grandparents minded this arrangement and she said no, adding that there was no flushing bathroom at her grandparents’, she would have to sleep on the floor... bla bla bla. I looked at her and thought, ‘You don’t know how lucky you are to still have a village/kampong you can go back to and to still have grandparents.’ I don’t even have a kampong and never even met my grandparents.
The sun finally broke through the clouds and I walked along Nam Khan River going the opposite direction to the route I took a day earlier in search of Andrea’s guesthouse. I didn’t find it and only managed to find the exact location (it sure was little known!) when I asked at Rama Hotel.
I went back for prayers and was out again 20 minutes later. Walked to Xayana Guesthouse and was told that Andrea had checked in and left her room. Walked along the main street hoping to bump into her all the way to the end of Sakkarine Road before retracing my steps. It was almost 5 pm and I thought I might as well climb That Phousi. It was a 328-step climb to the top (and yes there was an entrance fee of LAK20,000 but of course) and having huffed and puffed all the way up, I thought I might as well stay for the sunset. So I went around Vat Chamsi Stupa, enjoying a bird’s eye-view of the city. I was snapping a photo when I heard my name being called and felt a tap on my shoulder. It was Andrea! So we were reunited there.
We stayed until sunset before making our way down (I didn’t see any lights marking the way so I hoped no one fell to their death on their way down). We checked out the night market and tested our bargaining skills.
We had street food for dinner – there was this stall selling vegetarian dishes and all the food you can fill in the plate cost only LAK5,000. You pick your food and hand it to a woman who would fry the food (and hence get rid of the bacteria if any). There were some benches and tables at a side street where you can then have your dinner and this street (and the stall) is at the left street off the main road after the bank. The seller is there every night (I saw him and his customers the night before in the rain but didn’t stop to check out what he was selling). Good food at very reasonable price! I was satisfied.
Feeling energised, we continued window shopping before buying some souvenirs. We returned to our respective guesthouses at 2030 after having agreed to meet the following morning to watch the monk procession.
Sunday, 28 December 2008: Eve of New Hijrah Year
The Terminal/Sunday Bloody Sunday/No Country For Impatient Girl
I left the guesthouse after morning prayers and met up Andrea near her guesthouse. We walked up the main street unsure of where the monk procession would take place. The monks were late in appearing, we only sighted them after 0630 (and to think we were advised to go as early as 6 am!). The monks appeared in batches at various spots but the groups of alms-givers and monks were the largest at the Sisavangvong/Sakkarine/Thongnathao intersection. The monks were all bare-footed when collecting alms and each had a sling basket to store the food they received (sticky rice, fruits, etc). There were some young boys who stood back with their pails and plastic bags to collect the excess food (monks whose baskets were almost full would give the excess food to the boys). At first I thought they were novice monks or apprentices minus their robes then I gathered that they were poor kids who profited from the excess food received by the monks.
We walked along the road after the procession was over and I showed Andrea the bamboo bridges. We parted ways at a quarter to eight. I returned to my guesthouse to pack and have breakfast.
After breakfast, I went to the National Museum. As in most other establishments in Luang Prabang (except for restaurants), we have to take off our shoes and walk barefooted in the museum. The museum showcased the royal possessions, the furniture and wardrobe used, and the diplomatic gifts received in its various rooms. There was also a garage housing the royal vehicles outside the building towards the rear of the museum grounds.
I had some vegetarian street noodle before returning to the guesthouse.
The tuk tuk I requested came ten minutes late and I was surprised to see a woman, a girl and a boy in the tuk tuk. They refused to budge or move despite the urgings of the driver and I had to struggle to get in, with my luggage and all. After a while, after having observed them and heard their conversation, I turned and asked, ‘Korea?’ The woman gave a small nod without deigning a smile or a nod. I said ‘Ahn nyoung haseyo’ (spelling?) but was ignored and I said loudly, ‘Wow, not very friendly, are you.’ Most people would be civilised enough to take that as a hint to start a conversation or even if they don’t want to, would still say hello back with a tone that suggest that conversation will not continue.
The driver drove on and I was preparing myself for the artic chill emanating from my snotty snobbish hoity-toity fellow passengers when the tuk tuk stopped. The driver got down and asked the three to board another tuk tuk across the street. Ahh, I figured then that they simply hailed my tuk tuk earlier and insisted on riding it. Whatever. This time, it was me who had the smug satisfaction of seeing them vacate the seats they so refused to budge from only minutes earlier. I even called out to them, ‘Oww, too bad ain’t it!,’ not without some glee. Yes, I can be so evil.
Unfortunately for me, I couldn’t board the 1310 flight and all because I didn’t confirm my ticket. What? I didn’t know people still do that. I can’t even remember the last time I had to confirm my ticket and the last time I did that, I was told there was no longer any need to do so. The chap behind the counter said I must do so for Lao Airlines. I was made to wait before he arranged for me to take the next flight out at 1600. Boy, a long wait indeed but at least I had my novel with me.
The view from the airplane was fantastic. Rugged mountains formed the view for the most part of the journey before plains appeared with their rivers, agricultural fields and towns. I also saw Nam Ngum Lakes from afar.
No one at the domestic taxi counter knew where Champa Guesthouse was (arranged by an acquaintance of my contact who was supposed to arrange for my lodging in Laos) despite calling it reluctantly at my request (they must have dialled a wrong digit). I was beginning to get impatient and marched on to the international terminal and guess what? There was no one manning the taxi counter. I waited and waited and finally lost my patience. I marched out and made my way to the main road, pulling my trolley bag behind me. A cab driver asked me if I needed taxi and I snapped back, ‘How can I take a taxi out of the airport when there was no one at the counter?’ and walked on. Another driver called out, ‘Miss, where are you going?’ to which I snapped, ‘I’m going to Champa Guesthouse, if you know where that is!’ and stormed off.
Sorry guys, you were just at the wrong place at the wrong time. But seriously, I was starting to swear at the way things are done in Laos, at how slow everyone moves, at how little they value time – if at all. No, I didn’t get lost in Laos but I did lose my temper. Oh dearie me.
I saw a tuk tuk at the main road. He quoted a very reasonable LAK20,000 and I told him to take me to the only place I knew which could help me out: Nazim Restaurant.
The guy at Nazim very kindly called up the stupid guesthouse and obtained the directions for me. I thanked him profusely and left. It was at a remote area near the stadium and when I arrived, I was quoted a figure higher than what I expected to pay. I could feel my anger returning. She quickly said it would be USD18 for a single room and I said, ‘Yes, I’m alone’ and looked around wondering if she could see someone else beside me. Like duh!
I viewed the room; it was alright but the guesthouse was a bit off the main area and I told the girl that if I didn’t return in two hours, she was free to let it out to someone else. And so I started my search for a new place. It was almost dusk then and there I was, wandering around looking for a place to spend the night. It was then I realised that guesthouses in Vientiane are a far cry from the ones in Luang Prabang. No character, most are seedy and sleazy. I shuddered at the sight of some of them. I finally found one (Phornthip Guesthouse, near Vat Inpeng) but later that night thought, heck, my room looked seedy too. Still, there was a fridge and a TV (which I didn’t enjoy in Luang Prabang).
I walked to the Mekong promenade to find dinner. There were dozens of stalls operating, offering all kinds of food: grilled fish and seafood (squids, prawns), grilled chicken and other meat and something that looked like some animal organ. I stopped at one stall and peered at its containers of food. There was one that caught my attention and I stared and stared wondering what it was before comprehension dawned and I went ‘Arrrkkk! Those are frogs! Euwww!’ and quickly walked off.
I finally had dinner at Fathima, another halal Indian eatery.
Monday, 29 December 2008: Islamic New Year
Feels Like Summer
I couldn’t sleep much the night before. I kept hearing someone stir-frying something and people talking. I could even smell the dish at times too. And after hearing Andrea’s story of having potential bed bugs as sleeping partner, I was afraid to lie down in my bed too. So I thought maybe I should find another place for tonight.
After breakfast, I wandered to find the Vientiane Jamia Masjid. It’s located near Nampu (fountain square). Then I wandered around the area and found a guesthouse which looked so much better. Back to Phornthip and told the lady with the perpetual frown (she also looked like she was going to burst into tears any minute) that I wanted to check out.
I checked into Phonepaseuth Guesthouse before 11 am. Went to a bank to change money and then walked to Talat Kua Din (a small market selling mostly fruits and vegetables) before going to Talat Sao Mall (the food court was a joke) and the adjoining Talat Sao (Morning Market). Some of the souvenirs sold were quite different from those sold at the Luang Prabang Night Market. I spent some time but was generally disappointed.
I re-emerged into the hot afternoon and went to a vegetarian restaurant next to the Lao Cultural Hall Centre. Its name? Hallelujah Vegetarian Restaurant, I kid you not. There was a daily lunch buffet Unfortunately, most dishes were finished but I enjoyed my lunch all the same.
I hurried back to the guesthouse to rest. Ventured out after evening prayers and went for a two-hour massage (half an hour foot massage, one hour traditional Lao massage – not unlike a Thai massage - and half an hour of herbal massage) and it cost less than USD14 (and less than RM48!)! Dinner was again had at Fathima Restaurant and I discovered a fourth halal Indian resto.
Tuesday, 30 December 2008
Coming Home
Another early start to the day. Had breakfast at 0745 and checked out by 0830. Went in search of a tuk tuk and finally managed to strike a bargain with a driver to take me to the airport for LAK20,000 which was what I paid two days ago anyway. The flight was supposed to take off at 1005 but only took off way after 1030 as a result of which we landed late. It was a long walk to the terminal from the plane and I was surprised to see the new wing of the terminal. There are now six conveyor belts as opposed to only two previously. Sadly, this didn’t speed things up: I managed to visit the bathroom, went to 7-11, bought a cup of instant noodles, prepared it and ate it slowly (I don’t like eating hot food) and still our bags hadn’t appeared. I could only take the 1515 bus back to KL (more than an hour since we landed I’m sure).
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My heartfelt appreciation and gratitude to dear SK who took the trouble to text me Arsenal match results. Muchos gracias amigo!
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