Journey To The Centre Of... Part II

Friday, 17 September 2010

Another early start to the day. Funny how my holidays almost always have early morning starts; you’d think holidays are those days where I get to start my day late. Anyway. I caught a city bus to the bus terminal at Hung Vuong Street; the fare was only VND4K and the 5-km trip took 15 minutes from where I boarded the bus (the city bus is bright orange and blue in colour). Some friendly locals directed me to the bus bound for Hue and I was practically escorted up the bus. The bus kept stopping to pick up passengers but even then, we reached Hue two hours and 15 minutes later. A pleasant surprise as I was told it takes anywhere between 2.5-3 hours to get to Hue. I was earlier quoted fares ranging from VND70K-100K for the trip but I only paid VND40K for my trip. I was also lucky that the lady next to me spoke passable English (which I only discovered when we reached Hue) for she helped me converse with the motorbike drivers. Finally, I agreed with one to take me to the Tombs of Khai Dinh and Tu Duc, Thien Mu Pagoda and the Dai Noi or Imperial City for VND150K. I asked how much that was in USD as I was running out of VND and he said USD8. OK, I agreed and we set off.

The places were located quite some distance apart and I was glad I had the motorbike driver bring me around. Seriously the scale of any map in Vietnam is just misleading. I had to pay an entrance fee of VND55K each at the two tombs and Dai Noi. I thought there would be more to the Imperial City and was slightly disappointed to see the area around the palace was in ruins. Restoration work is ongoing though. It drizzled for a while when I was at Tu Duc Tomb but the sun came out again. It was a pleasant day overall except when it got too hot at Dai Noi. Eager to reach Da Nang by 5 pm, I returned to the bus station at 2.40 pm and took a mini-bus bus back to Da Nang. This time, the journey took us only two hours. I hopped on the city bus back to Tran Phu Street and walked back to the hotel.

Saturday, 18 September 2010

Yet another early morning start to the day - well, I woke up early for my pre-dawn meal and stayed up for morning prayers anyway so it was an even earlier start to the day actually. Checked out and took a cab to the airport for my 8 am flight back to Saigon.

We landed in Saigon shortly after 9 am and after getting my bag, I walked over to the international terminal to catch the bus 152 to the city (I could have caught the bus at the domestic terminal but was unsure where the stop was as there was no sign). It’s VND6K for the fare (including for my bag). The bus took a slightly different route as it approached Pham Ngu Lao than it did in January. This time, I decided to stay at Vy Khanh Guesthouse (ranked second of 81 B&Bs in Saigon), located in an alley off Pham Ngu Lao street. The room was cosy and comfortable although the bed is a bit hard. It cost me USD16 a night. After checking in, I went out to Bui Vien street to a shop selling Muslim prayer attire, baju kurung, jubah etc. I brought a bag this time to fill in my purchases. After that, I returned back to the hotel to deposit the bag and perform prayers.I went out again at 1230 to check out the new airport bus route for the bus back to the airport the next day. The bus stop was there but the bus never showed up. That meant the bus route had indeed changed slightly and I would have to walk to Cho Ben Thanh to catch the bus the next morning *sigh*. Saigon seemed to have changed slightly since my last visit in January: the Yellow House Hostel no longer exists, the Tourist Information Centre has relocated and more buildings seemed to be sprouting. Even Vi Anh Fashion, the other shop selling Muslim prayer attire and baju kurung, seemed to have relocated from Nguyen Thai Binh. Finally I walked to the Downtown Duty Free Shop and this time I was in luck as it was having a renovation sale. I bought Swatch watches for my nieces and nephew and LeSportsac bags at 70% off. The best part is you collect your goods at the Saigon airport and not have to drag them to the airport with you. Shopping all done, I walked back to Pham Ngu Lao, stopping for a while at Cho Ben Thanh but leaving empty-handed. I broke fast at An Lac Chay, the vegetarian resto at a small lane off Pham Ngu Lao where I had my meals on my last visit.

Sunday, 19 September 2010

I slept through the alarm (despite having my mobile phone right next to my pillow!) and only woke up to catch the last 20 minutes or so of the Sunderland-Arsenal match. I didn’t even realise there were only ten Arsenal players on the pitch (I did notice Cesc on the bench and immediately got worried) and what was even more heartbreaking was the goal we conceded at the very last second. Blinking hell. Had my pre-dawn meal while watching footie – in case I slept through the alarm again.I checked out at 9 am and went to the shop at Bui Vien, hoping to buy a pair of baju kurung but it had yet to open. My flight was at 11 and I couldn’t afford to linger waiting for the shop to open so reluctantly I walked away and headed for the bus station across Cho Ben Thanh for the bus to the airport.

The flight from KL landed about 20 minutes later than scheduled but that didn’t affect our departure. And this time, I didn’t have to pay any departure tax – perhaps it had been included in the ticket price? Reached micasa at 4 pm and the minute I stepped in, the skies opened up and it rained. Finished unpacking in half an hour and rested until it was time to break fast my last fasting day. Alhamdulillah.

I plan to visit Saigon again, never mind that it’s an Asian city on steroids. InsyaAllah.

Freak goal

I’m so glad they have bonded ;)

Journey To The Centre Of... Part I

Well, not the Earth exactly but the centre of Vietnam. And this is how the journey went.

Wednesday, 15 September 2010
I left micasa early this morning for KLIA. The plane took off on time and we landed at Saigon at 9.48 am. I changed some USD at the airport; there were a few exchange offices with varying rates and some even charge commission ranging from 1-3%. So do shop around (my rate was USD1 = VND19470). Then I followed the covered walkway to the domestic terminal and checked in for my noon flight to Da Nang. You can fly either Jetstar or Vietnam Airlines but I chose the latter, having compared the rates for the two airlines back in April; Jetstar would have cost more even if I chose not to check in my bag. There was a noticeable stench as you enter the domestic terminal and after checking in, I hurried over to the boarding gates to escape the stench.

The domestic flight took off slightly later and I dozed off during take-off - well, it had been an early start for me after all. We landed after 1 pm but my bag took so long to board the carousel that I was only out at almost 2 pm. I took a cab - do insist on a metred one - to the corner of Quang Trung and Le Loi streets and went in search of a hotel. Yup, this was only my second trip of not having booked any prior accommodation. It took several minutes of walking in the hot sun before I concluded that I’d be better off finding a hotel at a street nearer to the waterfront so I walked to Tran Phu street and true enough, I sighted hotels there. The rate of a single room ranged from USD15-20 and after four attempts, I found a room at Stargazer Hotel for VND250K a night - about USD13 (although when I later settled my bill and asked to pay in USD instead as I was running out of Dong, the girl charged me only USD12/night). The hotel is right in front of Exim Bank. I didn’t ask about breakfast as I had planned to fast the whole time I was in Vietnam anyway. I then agreed with a chap for him to take me to Hoi An on Friday on his motorbike for VND100K one way.

I ventured out after four pm and walked along Bach Dang, the street parallel to the river. I found Sinh Cafe and remembering the few articles suggesting this company, enquired on a bus fare to Hue. I was quoted VND71K. ‘Too expensive,’ I thought. Audrey had told me it cost her VND35K one way to Hue. Besides the Sinh Cafe bus leaves at 9 am and has no day return trip.

I had dinner ̣or rather broke fast at the food court at Indochina Towers nearby. There was an employee there who spoke considerably good English and I chatted with her a bit. When I asked if there was a supermarket nearby, she suggested Big C at Hung Vuong street. My, it was actually far. I didn't know it was that far when I set out. It was a 15-minute walk back to the hotel from Big C Superstore.

Thursday, 16 September 2010

I woke up very early hoping to catch the Champions League match between Arsenal and Braga. No such luck. Two channels were showing the Real Madrid-Ajax match instead but I watched it anyway - no, not to watch Cristina but Özil. Man, Cristina really had misplaced his shooting boots big time, I wonder what Alan Hansen would say to him had he still be in England and playing for ManUre that night. The channel also had regular updates from other matches so I was glued to the screen and was very happy to note that at half-time Arsenal had led by three goals. The channel didn’t however inform who the scorers were. I watched the match until the end and was overjoyed to find that Arsenal scored six goals past Braga. More on that later.

I woke again after six am and showered. I left after 7 and asked the hotel where I could wait for a city bus to the bus terminal for a bus to Hue. I must have missed the bus because I waited more than twenty minutes but no bus came. There was a yellow bus apparently bound for Hoi An though and when I returned to the bus stop again, I saw the same bus and decided to go for Plan B, i.e. visit Hoi An first and Hue the next day - I had planned to visit Hue first before visiting Hoi An.

The bus fare was only VND10K and we reached Hoi An 45 minutes later. It had started drizzling along the way and didn’t let up – thankfully not the torrential type we get here. I was approached by a guy who asked if I needed a ride to the Ancient Town. Apparently, it was three km away from the bus station. Well, I couldn’t have walked there even if I knew the way and even if it wasn’t raining. So we agreed on the price, well, not exactly agreed (I only agreed to pay him VND100K for a return trip plus a ride within the old town instead of VND200K (which he later reduced to VND150K then VND130K); besides he’d told me it cost VND40K for a one-way trip). Then I got on the motorbike. OK, here’s a confession: it was my very first time on a motorbike and well, it had to rain, didn’t it. First time on a motorbike and I was being rained on. I later told the driver to that I wanted to buy a raincoat; it cost me VND5K.

We stopped to buy admission ticket first. It cost USD5 or VND90K so I chose to pay in Dong. The ticket entitles you to visit/enter five places. I entered Quan Cong Temple, The Old House of Phung Kung, Handicraft Workshop and Traditional Music concert hall, Japanese covered bridge and temple and Old House Duc An (which was a ̣Vietnamese house). We finished at 10.45 am and I asked the driver to give me until 12.30 pm. Then I wandered off. The rain had stopped by then and I walked happily on, avoiding puddles and mud. It was a very charming area and reminded me of Luang Prabang. Quite a few locals told me I looked Vietnamese. I just smiled. So, I look like Miss Saigon. Am I supposed to be thrilled? Ecstatic? Flattered?

I then met up with the driver at a temple at the corner of Tran Phu and Hoang V. Thu and he drove me back to the bus terminal. The bus back to Da Nang was super slow and I dozed off along the way. This time, the trip took us an hour to reach Da Nang. I got down at an intersection very near the hotel, found the chap I’d agreed to go to Hoi An earlier with and told him I’d already gone to Hoi An.

to be continued
~~~~~~~~

OK, lemme cover the Champions League match first. Inspirational Captain Fantastic led the Fàbregas-inspired Gunners to man-of-the-match displays. He was on fire and Arsenal on the whole were simply stunning, leaving Braga to chase shadows. Maybe you can say that Arsenal were too good for their own good. When asked, the star man said he was comfortable at the Emirates - and what more can you ask for for his proof of affection? If you don't get what you want, do you sulk and mope or do the alternative? For full match report and more pictures, go here and here.

Penalty convertedCesc celebrates

He can be quite lazy and plays like sh*t but comes up with goals like this

Superb goal, simply delightful

This time, he didn’t score with his head but he used his head all right ;)

Man-huddle

Cesc heads in

That’s my head boy ;) Vela makes it five

... and six