I had bought ticket to Bintulu earlier in the year during an offer (flights to be completed by 30 June 2022) after studying the calendar and school holiday schedule. So last Friday, I left home early and made my way to KLIA. My flight was originally in the afternoon but was changed to depart just after noon. I usually buy Gardenia bread before travelling abroad and decided to do the same this time as I only booked a budget hotel and no breakfast would be served. I was lucky to grab one Vanilla and one Corn bun each – the man ahead of me at the counter bought fifty buns, yes, fifty (!) and three loaves of Delicia bread. I was amazed when I saw Eraman actually operated an open shop selling Gardenia bread and buns at the departure area.
We took off on time and landed just after 14:30. I didn’t have to wait long for my bag and immediately ordered a Maxim car. It turned out to be a cab but with a driver wearing a cabbie, Grab and Maxim hats. He was muttering about calling me but not being able to get through until I showed him that no calls were received. Grouchy grump!
The airport is some 20km away from the town centre and it was drizzling in some areas. I checked in and climbed up the stairs to my room on the first floor. It was a budget hotel and I chose it due to its location: proximity to the night market, day market, Tamu and jetty. I decided to perform prayers first. It rained shortly after and I rested while waiting out the rain.
I ventured out around 6 p.m. and walked to the waterfront. The dark clouds that still lingered and the approaching twilight made everything seemed a bit grey and dark. I walked to the riverfront but everything looked murky so I didn’t linger long. I then walked around the nearby shop blocks before heading for the night market. I didn’t find anything that interest me so went to have dinner at a roadside stall instead before returning to my room.
It rained overnight and continued on to Saturday morning. From my room, I could see part of the morning market so after a light breakfast, I went down to check it out. I was surprised to find it was still raining lightly. Then I went to check out the main market (most stalls were closed) and Tamu next to it. You can find vegetables on one wing of the main market and fresh seafood on another wing. At Tamu, you can find the local specialties such as palm sugar (gula apong), fermented shrimp, shrimp paste, salted fish, some vegetables and even one or two seafood sellers. Bintulu is famous for its shrimp paste and fermented shrimp.
I then went for a walk along the riverfront but turned back when the rain became heavier. I had planned to go to Tumbina Park (the name is literally a combination of the words ‘tumbuhan’ (plants) and ‘binatang’ (animals) in Malay) and arranged for Maxim. It was raining heavily when I arrived at Tumbina so I waited out the rain at the guardhouse. The guard explained there are two main ring routes: the outer one is 2km while the inner ring is 1km in length. After about twenty minutes, the rain petered off so I set off. Besides the ring roads, there are also various tracks in the park so one could take a shortcut if one wants to. As it was my first time there, I decided to take the outer ring road. The terrain was hilly.
I first came upon the deer who all stood in transfixed silent looking at me. The Sambar deer were in the next enclosure and the Java deer next to that. I walked on further and saw the building for the tiger; unfortunately, there was no more tiger (it had died of old age, I was told later by a park staff). I saw the Malay civet and leopard cats. I went to check out the sun bears but they were still in their buildings and saw the flamingos from afar. I wanted to walk to them but the path was muddy and I wasn’t keen to step into it. I was already being bitten by bloody bloodsuckers before I came upon the civet and leopard cats. I then walked on to the Fern Garden (forest, more like), Reptiles Complex and bird cages, before continuing on to the Orchid Garden (only one or two in bloom then), Cactus Complex, the Bougainvillea Garden (you could see the sea from here) and the Butterfly Garden. There’s no more ostrich after two were bitten by wild dogs and the sole survivor then died soon after. The Butterfly Garden was missing its net so you couldn’t see the butterflies unless they were nearby or you have a pair of binoculars. I also went into the Butterfly Gallery for AC relief before venturing out again. While it drizzled on and off and the sun was mainly behind clouds, it was still humid. I walked down Jalan Harimau to the Gallery and Fish Pond (I didn’t go any nearer though), went up to see the porcupines then down again, dropped by to see the otter and I was back at the main entrance. I spent a total of three hours at the park.
I decided to walk to Tanjung Batu beach and was shocked when I saw a sign warning the public not to swim as there may be crocodiles. Like really?? I walked on until I reached the food court before turning back. I decided to walk back to town and walked along Jalan Pantai Batu and then Jalan Tun Razak. I wanted to walk across ParkCity to find a hijama place and was nearing the junction to Jalan Kambar Bubin when two fierce dogs appeared and I beat a hasty retreat. I turned around and turned instead into Jalan Durian Tembaga and then Lorong Durian Tembaga before I joined Jalan Kambar Bubin. Damn you, mad dogs!
I finally reached the hijama place and made an appointment for the following morning. The owner noticed my face mask and asked if I was an old girl. When I said yes, he said his wife was an old girl too and has the same face mask. Hah, what a small world! I then walked back to my hotel and room.
I ventured out that evening to the night market where I bought food for dinner. It being Saturday night, there were more people there and more sellers. I bought some fish and prawn crackers from a couple (I asked if they were operating the evening before and they said no). I was running out of cash by then and was happy when they allowed online transfer.
Sunday turned out better. I left my room at 08:30 and walked to Tamu. I saw a city bus and went to board it. I asked the driver if the bus would pass ParkCity but didn’t quite understand his reply. Well, it didn’t so I alighted at Jalan Sultan Iskandar and walked. I stumbled upon the public library on the way. I reached the hijama place at 09:50 and although it officially opened from 10:00, there was a couple ahead of me. I met my junior and she even did the treatment on me. She advised me to return to my hotel and sleep after the session. Well, I went back but not before I detoured to the riverfront and walked up to where the river met the sea before turning back. I decided to perform prayers first before taking a short nap but made the mistake of checking my phone as I was lying down. Had messages about someone travelling for work and had their planes delayed. I had to cut short my nap to deal with it.
I woke up at 14:45 and got dressed. It was blinding hot then. I made my way to the jetty and waited for a boat to take me across to Jepak. A boat finally arrived at about 15:15 and it took less than five minutes to get across and cost RM1 each way. I wandered around the village and by instinct took a shortcut to Hazzana Mee Udang (prawn restaurant). I ordered prawn noodles. I had read mixed reviews and well, I can say that the dish looked so much better than it tasted. I paid for my meal using QR code.
I returned to the jetty and took the boat across to town. I made my way to the night market which had already started operating. It was too hot though so I didn’t linger. I returned to my room and rested instead. I didn’t venture out again.
On Monday morning, I finished packing then went to Tamu again. I bought some salted fish and managed to find peeled anchovies at a shop across from Tamu. I then had mee kolok at Uncle Tan’s Café, two doors away from my hotel (the owner assured me it was halal). Then I returned to my room, zipped up my suitcase and checked out. The Maxim car didn’t take long to arrive and we left at 09:30. I was at the airport before 10:00 and it took less than a couple of minutes to scan my bag and drop it at the counter and get my boarding pass.
We took off on time and landed at 13:40. I went to perform prayers and my bag was already waiting when I went to the belt (it makes a nice to have my bag waiting for me instead).
So that was my trip to Bintulu and now I can see that I have been to Bintulu (been-to lu!). Alhamdulillah for the rezeki and opportunity to visit a new place.
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