Monday, February 15, 2016

My Parts Unknown: Tanzania And Malawi: Episode III

Wednesday, 3 February 2016

Again, I woke up after midnight and realised I was too sleepy before falling asleep to switch off the light. Checked footie results and was pissed to learn that Arsenal only managed a draw. What the -??!! I tried to sleep but sleep didn’t come easy. No sooner than I had fallen asleep when I suddenly woke up and this continued a few times before I finally got up for morning prayers.

I had another late breakfast and set off to test the route to the ferry terminal. I hesitated at a few turns but managed to get it right in the end. I also saw the kitten that I saw outside a shop the previous evening and it seemed to show me the right direction. I also tried out some alleys and decided I would take them instead the following morning.


Oh hi again, kitty


That done, I walked down to the House of Wonders. I was told the day before that it was closed but thought the person meant that it was closed then. Well, it looked like it was permanently closed so after taking more pictures, I continued to the alleys behind before emerging by the seafront. Then I returned to the alleys and stumbled upon St Joseph’s Cathedral. A few more minutes of wandering and I was back at my lodge! It seemed like I had gone down and explored every alley there. I then decided to head to Darajani Market to buy some spiced tea and coffee. I walked around before stopping at a stall where I made my meagre purchases.





After Darajani Market, I walked to Forodhani Gardens. The plan was to sit there and enjoy the view, the fresh air and the sea breeze but before long, I was approached by men wanting to sell me packages. There was just no escaping them. I declined them all. I sat there close to an hour before returning to my room. I managed a brief siesta somehow amidst the din coming from the adjacent school. I don’t know when they had classes because the noise started from 07:00 and continued for the next 10 hours.

I stayed in for the rest of the day, resting and reading. I had ventured most of the alleys in Stone Town and it was too hot to venture out anyway.

Thursday, 4 February 2016

I woke up early this morning and finished packing. I brought down my suitcase for breakfast and returned for my shoulder bags after breakfast. I set off for the ferry terminal and guess what, I saw the kitten again! I think it was an angel in disguise sent down to guide me. I reached the terminal in 13 minutes and made my way to the immigration office. Yes, we had to fill up departure cards. Then I settled in to wait. I was pleasantly surprised to note that there was wifi at the terminal.

I don’t think I heard any announcement but the passengers stood up about ten minutes before our scheduled departure time of 09:30 and formed a disorderly queue. The usual pushing and shoving ensued. I boarded the ferry five minutes later and noted that there were many empty seats in the first class (where foreigners were made to sit). We left about 09:35 and the boat rocked its way to Dar Es Salaam. The sea was rough at times and there was one period when I felt like I was on a rollercoaster, yes, it was that rough! The ferry was fast though. I think if it had been slower, a lot of people would have thrown up during the crossing. I myself was trying hard not to throw up especially during the bad spell.

We reached Dar Es Salaam ferry terminal at 11:30 and after waiting for and retrieving my bag, I walked out of the terminal, ignoring the cabbie drivers who were outside. Surprisingly, we didn’t have to fill up any landing form. Oh well. I walked up Sokoine Drive to the National Museum. It was almost noon and it was oh so hot. I reached the museum after twenty minutes (I did stop along the way to take pictures and consult a map). I had to write down my name at the gate before proceeding to the ticket counter. The ticket was TZS6,500. I was told that there were four galleries but only two were open. I left my bags at the ticket counter and went up to the first floor where the exhibitions were. The exhibitions were dedicated to the history of Tanzania. It looked like Tanzania had established diplomatic relationships with China since the 1960s; that explained the presence of Chinese and Chinese companies in the country. I spent an hour there.

I was going to the Botanical Garden across the road from the museum but there were a lot of people about. Loitering or having their lunch break? I had a suitcase I had to pull and two shoulder bags, how quickly could I make my escape if I needed to? With this in mind, I turned back and walked back Sokoine Drive to a supermarket where I bought some rice and dishes for lunch. Then I waited for a bajaj at Maktaba Street. However, bajaj drivers quoted me TZS20K which I thought was outrageous because cabbie charged the same too. So in the end, I took a cab to F&Q Motel near the airport.


Lunch

The airport was only 9 km from downtown but it took us 45 minutes to reach the motel. We were stuck in a horrible traffic crawl along Julius K. Nyerere Road (named after the first President) in the early afternoon heat and, no, there was no air-conditioning. I was surprised when I realised that the cars over there did not have AC. Can you believe it? No AC in 33C heat and humidity? Man, no wonder the B.O. is so damn strong there. Too strong at times that I sometimes had to hold my breath or take shallow breaths.

We finally reached the airport intersection and I showed the cabbie the direction to the motel. I paid him and checked in. I braved the heat and walked to the F&Q Hotel to access wifi before returning back to the room. Oh, the room actually had AC! I had a late lunch then rested.

I set alarms on both my iPad and iPhone for 03:30 as I had an early morning flight. I was already in bed by 20:30 and asleep shortly after.

To be continued