Tuesday, February 11, 2014

My Burmese Days: Days 1 and 2

I had been planning  a return trip to Myanmar for some time now but hadn’t managed to do it earlier due to a number of reasons: the airfare, timing, instability in the country and particularly the harsh treatment towards the minority Rohingyas leading to the closure of one site that I wanted to visit had also deterred me from making a much earlier return. After perusing the travel fora and looking up the airfares, I finally took the plunge and on the last day of July 2013, I bought the ticket - after working out how many days I would potentially need of course and searching the public holidays to avail of them. After the ticket purchase, I set about trying to find accommodation and air routes or alternative ground arrangement. Finally the day arrived.

Friday, 31 January 2014

It was an early start today and I left shortly after 7. Abah sent me to the Ampang Park LRT station from where I made my way to KL Sentral. I decided to check in my bag at KL Sentral as I suspected there would be a long, long queue at KLIA. A wise choice - there was hardly a queue at KL Sentral but KLIA was full of travellers. The queues were long everywhere from the check-in counters to the bag drop counters to immigration and autogate and of course security. I chose to go through the traditional immigration check and it was so much faster. Technology is fast and automation helps but ultimately it’s the people who slow down the autogate process as they struggle to clear it.

Our departure was delayed close to an hour but finally we were off. We landed at 1215 and after clearing immigration, I went to collect my bag. I decided to change some money at the airport. The Ringgit has taken a severe beating against most major currencies including the greenback. If anything, we performed the worst against the greenback. Now most moneychangers in Myanmar are fussy fussy fussy and they only want brand new crisp USD notes. I had obtained some hardly new notes with clear line in the middle (the moneychanger in KL assured me that they would be accepted in Myanmar even though I protested and requested for brand new notes). True enough, the first moneychanger refused my note (we could only change USD100 per passenger, how strange) but directed me to a bank’s bereau de change. Thankfully, the bank accepted my note - although it gave me the local currency in 1,000 notes. So you can imagine the thick wad of cash that I had to carry with me! I decided to change a further USD100 and went to another moneychanger, this time asking if he had bigger denominations. He had 5,000 kyat notes. Guess that was better than 1,000 kyat notes huh.

Money changing business done, I took my bag and walked to the domestic terminal about 5 minutes away. I had contemplated taking the bus too but it takes at least 11.5 hours and I would only arrive at my destination at 3 am or so. Err, no thanks. Myanmar is a huge huge country and while air travel is not cheap, it’s definitely a much faster alternative. Besides, I had read that while some destinations are serviced by buses, foreigners are not allowed to take them. See, the government wants to restrict the movement of foreigners and they don’t want us to see what we shouldn’t. You must stick to the government-approved destinations and for some destinations, the only option available to the foreigner is the plane or boat. Locals can travel by buses though but you won’t know who to ask and not all locals can speak English anyway.

I had emailed Air Mandalay asking for quotations (and another airline which didn’t bother to respond) and had arranged to collect my tickets at the airline office at the domestic terminal. The office was quite hidden and I walked past it before asking for directions. I paid for my tickets in USD and the airport taxes of 1,000 kyat/airport in kyat. Then I sat down and waited for the check- in counter to open. The counter opened an hour before departure and after checking-in, I went in to the boarding area. There were many Caucasians with only a handful Asians there.




We took off slightly later than scheduled and landed at Heho Airport 70 minutes later. Strangely enough, we all had to go through the local immigration where the immigration officers took note of our visa number and particulars. I had arranged for my guesthouse to provide an airport pick-up (18K kyat). It took us 50 minutes to reach Nyaung Shwe from Heho Airport but then again, the cabbie wasn’t speeding. I doubt he ever exceeded 50 km/hour at all. We stopped briefly at a monastery before continuing on and stopped at the entrance. I had to pay USD10 for the entrance (or 10K kyat if you want to pay in the local currency, or €10 which I thought was ridiculous. As expensive as USD is, it's still cheaper than Euro and USD10 is definitely not equivalent to €10!).

We reached the guesthouse at 6 and I checked in. After performing prayers, I went out to look for dinner. I walked around getting my bearings and after walking up and down the main street including a detour to the night market, I had my dinner at a small roadside stall. I joined a Taiwanese girl who was also travelling alone and we chatted. After dinner, I went to check out the Aung Puppet Show near Nandawunn Hotel but the door of the show house was already closed and the show was already underway. I returned back to the guesthouse to rest. It had been a long day.

Saturday, 1 February 2014

After breakfast, I hurried to the jetty. The guesthouse manager had advised me to go to the jetty and see if I could share a boat with someone. I reached the jetty after ten minutes and waited and waited, looking around but everyone else had already made prior arrangement and finally I accepted an offer by a chap to take me for 15K kyat. We left at 0815 and after an hour, we reached a village, stopping at a silver factory and showroom and then the floating market. I spent an hour there walking around the market. The stalls sell similar items: souvenirs and trinkets, t-shirts, scarves, jewellery, statues of Buddha, prayer items etc. There were also sections selling vegetables, fish, local food and stalls selling ready-to-eat food.

Our next stop was a lotus showroom where I was shown how fibres of the lotus stalks are turned into scarves. I was told that lotus-fibre scarves are more expensive than silk scarves and later, I was surprised to see how expensive it was. $120-$160 for a piece of silk scarf! Maybe the shop sells them at inflated prices but I had better use for my money, thank you very much.

We then went to a cigar-making factory and then a blacksmith before an early lunch. I had rice mashed with potato and surprisingly, it tasted quite good. After lunch, we went to a temple but I didn’t feel like taking my shoes off then and so we left. We retraced our route back across the gigantic Inle Lake and passed the floating garden, where the locals plant flowers for sale before stopping at Nga Phe Kyaung Monastery (aka Jumping Cat Monastery). We were already back by 1415 and I walked in the blazing heat back to my room. It was so hot that my socks were dry within a couple of hours of laundering!

WiFi was down in the afternoon after I got up from siesta. After evening prayers, I went to the reception to pay for my room ($20/night or 18K kyat) then went to arrange a cab to the airport for the next day (I found one company offering me a cab for 14K kyat) before walking to the puppet showhouse. I was the only person for the 7 pm show though and the owner asked if I could come back for the 8:30 pm show instead. I went to have dinner at the stall I went to the evening before. After dinner, I returned to my room before walking out again to the puppet showhouse. I joined a couple making it three in the audience. The owner told me earlier that there were five in the audience for the 6 pm show. I enjoyed the show but clearly it’s a dying art. What a shame. The owner told us he’s the fourth generation to maintain the tradition but support has been on the decline. The locals don’t care for it and even the number of foreigners has been declining. If you are in Nyaung Shwe, do check out Aung Puppet Show. The shows are at 6 pm, 7 pm and 8:30 pm. It only costs 3K kyat and you’ll be learning something about the local culture.

I returned to my room and read a bit before calling it a day.


To be continued