Friday, May 31, 2013

Escapade: Part V

Città vuota


No, it should be Lonely Town, not a song of a small town girl in a lonely world


Saturday, 4 May 2013

I finished my packing this morning and went for breakfast. The Canadian elderly couple who slept in the room next to mine told me they were going to Paestum, an archaeological site south of Salerno. I had checked the train times the night before and the train times were not frequent at all. They are like these:

Salerno-Paestum 0804-0839, 0830-0911, 0921-0959, 1339-1420...; and
Paestum-Salerno 1116-1150, 1406-1439, 1441-1517, 1522-1549, 1541-1618, 1801-1846.

So if you take the 0921 train, do you take the 1116 train back or the 1406 train? Whatever are you going to do there for 2+ hours? I decided to play it by ear.

As I only decided while having breakfast that I would go to Paestum that morning itself instead of in the afternoon, I hurriedly finished my breakfast and took my bags out into the hall. Then I rushed off to the train station, walking as fast as my vertically-challenged legs could take me. I arrived at the station with 5 minutes to spare but a glance at the screen told me the train was delayed by 5 minutes so I had 10 minutes to make the train after all. Phew. Although of course it also meant that my time in Paestum had been reduced by 5 minutes, should I decide to take the 1116 train back to Salerno. The train ticket cost €3.30 one way.

When you get down at Paestum, exit the station and walk towards the arch and walk on for about 700 metres. The site will be in front of you and you need to turn right and buy your ticket at the museum.

I made up my mind that I wouldn’t rush through the site and just enjoy it. I decided I would take the bus back to Salerno. No way was I going to wait for the next train out at 1406. See, Paestum is not as large as say, Pompeii, and you should be able to cover it in 90 minutes or so.

In the flower-filled meadows of Paestum are three perfectly preserved temples: the Temples of Athena, Hera and Neptune. Paestum began as Poseidonia, the city of Neptune or Poseidon, a colony found by the Greeks in the sixth century B.C. and taken by the Romans in the third century B.C.

If you’re going to take the bus back to Salerno, walk out of the site and walk towards the museum. Walk past the museum and on for another 400 metres (? I’m not good at measuring distance like this) until you come to an intersection. About 5 metres from the intersection is the bus stop back to Salerno. I asked around just to be safe and when I was sure that I had the right bus stop, sat down to wait. The girl at the bar opposite the bus stop told me the bus comes on an hourly basis. Fortunately for me, I waited only 10 minutes before the bus arrived. The fare back was €2.80.

It took 45 minutes to reach Salerno although when we entered the city, we hit the Saturday lunchtime traffic so the bus was inching its way slowly. It took another 15 minutes before we reached the train station. I walked back to my B&B, stopping for a slice of pizza (lunch). I also bought a huge vegetable pastry for dinner and breakfast the following morning.

Italians here observed the same siesta hours as the Spaniards so I returned to the B&B to rest myself too.

The Canadian couple came back just before 3 and we sat in the living room and chatted with each other. It was fun to be able to talk to someone else in English. In Galway, the hostel I stayed at had a lot of Spanish and French backpackers but they were all travelling in their own groups and they stuck to each other tight, hardly making the effort to talk to other travellers. So to be able to converse with them was such a pleasure.

I left at 7:30 pm and bade them goodbye. I had a night train to catch. I had bought the ticket online for a berth a few weeks back. And guess what, first the electronic board showed the train would depart from one platform but when I came out of the washroom, it showed a different platform instead! So I had to drag my bag down the stairs and up the stairs to the other platform. FFS. Then when the train came, I had to go down and up again because I went to wrong coach (the conductor said it was easier for me to get down and walk on the platform to my coach than to walk between the coaches). I was so exhausted from all that climbing up and down that I almost fell off the train after hauling my bag up. Luckily, a girl managed to grab my hands and pulled me to safety. Then there was some problem with the door: you need superhuman strength to twist the knob to lock it and then summon your strength again if you want to open it. Despite feeling tired and sleepy, I couldn’t sleep well. Of course. Nothing new there.

Sunday, 5 May 2013

We pulled into Milano Centrale (the Italians pronounce it Chin-tra-lay. They pronounce Barcelona as Bar-chee-lona) ahead of schedule. I had earlier utilised the tap in the train to brush my teeth and wash my face and a good thing too. I bought return tickets to Mendrisio and then went to store my bag at the left luggage. Today was shopping day! The return ticket to Mendrisio cost €15.

The lady at the ticket office sold me the 0810 train ticket. The trip would only take slightly more than an hour, meaning I would reach Mendrisio by 0915 while Foxtown would only open at 11. Oh well, at least it was a direct train and I wouldn’t need to change trains at Chiasso.

The ticket office at Mendrisio was closed on Sunday so I couldn’t wait in the waiting room. I didn’t feel like exploring the town centre so I spent the time reading my novel. I stopped reading at 1050 and walked to Foxtown. I hadn't been there in years and was excited to visit it again after all this time.

There were some free WiFi spots in the centre so I spent some time checking my tweets in between shops. I tried on some clothes but most didn’t fit me well. I managed to get some bargains though. Alhamdulillah.

I decided to return back to Milan earlier and checked the train schedules online. Took the 1648 train back to Milan, reached Milano Centrale at 1750 and rushed off to get my bag from the left luggage to make the 1805 bus to Bergamo Airport. It wasn’t as if I loved to spend time in airports but I could visit Orio Centre near the airport, get some dinner and rest there. There were some Juventus fans on the road honking their cars and flying their club flag on the streets.

Alas, it turned out that it rained earlier in Milan and was threatening to rain again. I dozed off in the bus and was not happy when I woke to find that it was raining in Bergamo. It was heavy enough to make one wet and I didn’t want to lug my bag in the rain getting unnecessarily wet. So in the end, I spent a longer time at the airport than I would have liked. And of course I couldn’t sleep a wink that night. Airports are the worst with their bright lights and noises.

To be continued