September Sojourn: Part IV

Soundtrack: Who Let The Dogs Out?

Thursday, 13 September 2018

I woke up early and had my shower and performed prayers. I had laundered some clothes the evening before and was not happy to find that they were still damp that morning despite the hot weather. Unless it had rained sometime during the night but the ground didn’t look all that wet. I collected my clothes and switched on the stand fan in an attempt to dry them up.

I left just after 07:30 and walked to Colchis Fountain. One of the stray dogs approached me and started following me. Normally I would have just ignored them but this one persistently followed me and after a while started growling and baring his fangs. Then it came nearer and tried to bite my suitcase. What the hell? I shooed it away but it came back and if anything, more aggressive than ever. I raised my voice and shooed it away again but it was relentless. Fortunately for me, a man passed by and he helped call the dog off. And guess what? The dog didn’t even bark at him. Huh, even dogs have double standards.

After taking pictures of Colchis Fountain, I turned back and walked to the marshrutka behind Meskhishvili Theatre and in front of Din Mart. The marshrutka was there when I walked past on my way to Colchis Fountain and the friendly driver waved at me. I paid 1 Lari and got in. The first marshrutka out to Gelati Monastery (schedule in this post), a UNESCO World Heritage Site, was at 08:00 and while I should probably have taken the next one at 11:00 so that I could ride the 12:00 marshrutka back to Kutaisi, I had a plane to catch that afternoon and had no idea of the marshrutka schedule that passes the airport. I had brought my suitcase along as I wasn’t sure if I had enough time to return to the guesthouse to get my bag or not and it seemed best to just have it with me although it did mean having to lug it with me.

 Meskhishvili Theatre

Colchis Fountain

Marshrutka to Gelati with the picture of the monastery

The marshrutka climbed up and pretty soon we were on a higher elevation to Kutaisi. It took about 20 minutes to reach Gelati Monastery and the workers who were restoring the monastery exterior were already at work. I was done after about 20 minutes and that was after having to lug my bag behind me. Now came the question of how I could get back down to Kutaisi. As usual, I trusted that Allah would show me the way so I walked out. Outside, the stall owners (to be honest, I didn’t notice the stalls when I arrived) had started hanging their wares. I must say they were friendly and tried to converse with me so I was a bit surprised when one man spoke English to me. I asked if I could take a train back to Kutaisi and he said no (I did read about it but didn’t save the info on my iPad). He then said he would be going to Kutaisi and that I could come with him. I thanked him and gratefully accepted the offer. He told me it would be another 20 minutes or so and I assured him it was fine. So I stood there looking at how they started opening their stalls and this was a bit cruel of me but I did wonder who would want to buy such rubbish like the cheap trinkets they sold. They even sold small footballs with club emblems on it. Who would want to come to the monastery and on the way back to the bus decided to stop and buy one of those balls? Or perhaps there had been demand before and hence why the supply was on offer?

Gelati Monastery

We finally left and it turned out there were two other passengers: a man and one of the women who opened the stall and tried to chat with me earlier. The man dropped me in front of Meskhishvili Theatre and he was pleasantly surprised when I gave him 5 Lari. He didn’t ask for it and 5 Lari was more than the marshrutka but I reckoned it was still less than what a cab ride would have cost me. I then took bus no. 1 to McDonald’s. After buying a bun from a roadside vendor, I walked behind McDonald’s and found some marshrutkas there. The marshrutka for the airport was in the last parking spot so I sat and waited. I didn’t have to wait long as the marshrutka left at 10:32 and we reached the airport 25 minutes later.

I had a long wait at the airport but hey better be early and wait than late although if it’s anything I dislike, it’s to arrive too early at the airport. I sat down, read my book, dried my clothes in the sun (didn’t work so I had to go to the bathroom and stood drying them at the hand-dryer).

The airline counter was supposed to open at 15:20 or so but remained closed until 15:50. You can just imagine the queues that had already formed by then. As Wizz Air allows only one bag on board, I had paid for the fare that enabled me a check-in bag and one bag on board. I went in immediately and had to endure a check; the security people even asked me to take my scarf off and I said no so I was led to a room and was subjected to a rough check by two wenches. After that, I went in and performed prayers near Dunkin’ Donuts before the crowds rushed in. And oh, there’s no exchange office in there so I couldn’t sell off my Lari. Dang.

The flight took off at 17:45 and we landed at Rome Fiumicino earlier than scheduled at 19:15. The immigration process was fast even though we landed around the same time as an airline from China. I didn’t have to wait long for my bag and after emerging, went in search for the washroom furthest away from where we exited the baggage area. I was so happy to note sign for the prayer room and after freshening up and performing ablutions, went in search of it. It was a proper prayer room (not a multi-faith prayer room) with three prayer mats. Imagine, at Rome Fiumicino, the airport for the capital city where the majority of the population are Roman Catholics!

After prayers, I went to the designated bay for Terravision. The bus arrived late but it didn’t take long for us to reach Rome Termini. I wandered around first as I couldn’t decide if I should have any snacks then decided to just head for my Intercity night train to Ferrara. I found my compartment and there were already four exchange students from Chicago in there and a local man. The train departed on time and I managed to somehow doze off amidst the chatter of the excited students. But sleep didn’t last of course because I could never sleep on moving trains or planes.

Friday, 14 September 2018

I got up a few times during the night to check if the train had arrived at Ravenna (I needed to change trains at Ravenna). We finally arrived at Ferrara around 04:40, enough time for me to change platforms for the 05:16 train to Ravenna. I would be returning back to Ferrara later that morning but the station was closed and so was the left baggage facility if there was one. The train arrived on time and I performed morning prayers in the train.

We arrived at Ravenna at 06:19. I freshened up before walking out to the city centre (station was only coming to life then so I didn’t bother looking for the left baggage and just took my suitcase along). The city was also just waking up then.

As the seat of the Roman Empire in the 5th century and then of Byzantine Italy until the 8th century, Ravenna has a unique collection of early Christian mosaics and monuments. All of its eight UNESCO World Heritage buildings– the Mausoleum of Galla Placidia, the Neonian Baptistery, the Basilica of Sant’Apollinare Nuovo, the Arian Baptistery, the Archiepiscopal Chapel, the Mausoleum of Theodoric, the Church of San Vitale and the Basilica of Sant’Apollinare in Classe – were constructed in the 5th and 6th centuries. I managed to visit five out of the eight buildings (didn’t manage to visit the Arian Baptistery, the Archiepiscopal Chapel and the Mausoleum of Theodoric).

 Mausoleum of Galla Placidia

 Basilica di San Vitale

Neonian Baptistery

 

Battistero Degli Ariana

I hurried back to the station and purchased a train ticket to Ferrara. The train was delayed by 10 minutes and we reached Ferrara at 11:45. It was already getting hot by then and it didn’t help that unlike Ravenna, Ferrara city centre was quite a bit of a walk from the station. I noticed most of the locals have bicycles: the nonnas, the young adults, working people... This Renaissance city has been designated as a UNESCO World Heritage, thanks to its beauty and cultural importance. I walked to Palazzo Municipale before making my way to Castello Estense. I spent some time at the castle before taking another route back to the station. Before going in, I decided to find some lunch and after walking half-way back into the city, I turned back and had a pizza slice from a halal shop near the station. It was just OK.

Castello Estense

The train left at 14:57 and we reached Padua at 15:49. I made my way across the canal and into the garden to my Airbnb host’s apartment at via Porciglia. It was a slightly hot in the apartment. I got acquainted with Antonio, my host’s husband (I thought her dad at first, opps!), as Cristina was out. After settling down, performing prayers and having some tea, we went out. I had earlier asked Cristina where I could print my boarding pass and Antonio was going to show me the shop and a bit of the city centre.

We first went into Chiesa degli Eremitani, a 13th century nearby before continuing on to the print shop. Antonio also had a boarding pass to print and you could either bring your thumb drive or email whatever you want to be printed. The shop charged him 5 cents. We then continued on to the city centre and I was pleasantly surprised to note that the city has many beautiful buildings. Antonio showed me around then left me to wander the city on my own.

 City Hall

 Torre dell'Orologio

 This is one of the oldest universities in the world

 via Daniele Manin

via Roma

I bought a tuna ball from a street vendor for dinner before returning to the apartment. Cristina was back then and after a brief chat, they left me to my devices. They went out for dinner and I couldn’t help wondering how trusting you need to be to leave your apartment with some stranger. They made up my bed (sofa bed) and drew the hall and kitchenette curtains to give me privacy. I went to bed after 23:00.

Saturday, 15 September 2018

I was woken up at 05:15 by the sound of rain and hurried out to the balcony to collect my clothes which I washed the previous evening. I got up again at 06:00 to shower and perform prayers. The rain was heavy with thunders and continued until after 07:30. I was planning on going out for a morning walk before returning for breakfast but my plan was dashed. Instead, I waited until after breakfast before going out. I headed first to print shop to print my boarding pass (got charged 10 cents, why?) before continuing on to Prato della Valle, a large prominent square which Cristina mentioned the previous evening.

I had a bad tummy upset throughout the morning and suspected the tuna ball was the culprit. I had to take some anti-diarrhoea pill when I came back. It was quite bad and I was praying that I would be able to continue my journey that morning without mishap.

I left at 11:10 and hurried to the station. I had to queue to buy the ticket; I knew the 11:40 train to Vicenza would cost me €4.65 but the ticket machine demanded €14.90 from me, outrageous!!! So I queued and got my ticket at 11:32. I quickly made my way to the platform. We arrived at Vicenza at 11:57 and it was so hot! I didn’t spend a long time at Vicenza. After walking through the city all the way to Teatro Olimpico, I turned back and returned to the train station. I was also disappointed that the Roman ruins couldn’t be viewed – the chap at the Tourist Info office told me the ruins are either in private residents’ properties or buried.

I took the 14:59 train to Verona Porta Vescovo and arrived in the hot afternoon. I took a while to get to my Airbnb host’s apartment at via San Nazaro and then struggled to contact him to open the doors. After some time, I managed to get him to open the doors and up to his apartment. After a brief rest and prayers, I walked to Castel San Pietro for a view of the city. There were a lot of people up there. Unfortunately for us, the sun was in our eyes and made it difficult to take pictures. I vowed to return the following morning.

I crossed Ponte Pietra and walked to Piazza Elbe. There were a lot of people everywhere, it being Verona and on a Saturday and there was the Tocatì Festival too when I was there. So if you’re planning to visit Verona, bear all these in mind (I only knew of the Festival just before I arrived) as finding accommodation would be a challenge.

I didn’t linger long at Piazza Elbe although when I was there, there was some foot racing which I caught the tail-end of. I proceeded to Casa di Giulietta and again there were a lot of people in that small courtyard. I was content to take pictures from outside and left after fifteen minutes and made my way to Arena di Verona at Piazza Bra, a well-preserved Roman Amphitheatre. It is still in use today and when I was there, a performance was about to begin with security guards outside the perimeter.

I walked around the amphitheatre before deciding to return back to my Airbnb. It took me a while though to get my bearings again and finally traverse a route back to my Airbnb. Back at the apartment, I had a shower, laundered my clothes, performed prayers then settled down for a snack. My host was out and still hadn’t returned by the time I hit the sack.

To be continued

September Sojourn: Part III

Soundtrack: Georgia On My Mind

Tuesday, 11 September 2018

I had a nightmare where I was with an evil person and we were hurting each other with our hands. I woke up feeling pain on my wrists as if someone had indeed held them tightly and hurt me. It was 03:40 then and even though I tried, I couldn’t sleep thereafter and finally at 05:00, I got up and headed for the shower. Performed prayers and freshened up then waited for breakfast. Lot had told me the bus times back to Tbilisi were at 08:10, 10:00 and 12:00 noon if I recall correctly. She had advised me to take the first bus out as it would be too hot after that and as I had more or less covered the main sights, I was ready to leave.

I left at 07:20 and walked to Kilikia bus station about 1.5km away. Lot had told me I didn’t have to cross the road (my map told me otherwise) and as she had taken the bus to Tbilisi before, I trusted her. So I was not happy when I asked around and was told I needed to take the bus across the road. I had to go down stairs into the underpass to the other side and my heart just sank at the sight of the horrible bus station. It looked straight out of the 1970s and only one woman seemed to know a bit of English, well, enough English to point out the marshrutka to Tbilisi to me. I approached the driver and asked if he was going to Avlabari and he said he was heading for Ortachala. I asked where I could get the bus to Avlabari and he replied in Armenian and gestured. I asked if it was across the road and he seemed to agree so I headed back down the underpass. This time I asked the drivers themselves and was again told I needed to go to the other side. So there I went again down and up the stupid stairs. I had just about given up at that point and told the driver I would ride in his marshrutka even though he was headed for Ortachala bus station. I paid 6,500 Dram for my fare.

We left the sad excuse of a bus station at 08:44 and after some time, stopped at a supermarket in a town that looked like the rain had just stopped minutes before. The driver told us to change money there and I took the opportunity to use the bathroom. I bought some chocolates before selling off the remaining Dram and received 5 Georgian Lari.

The border control was smooth and we had to take our bags to enter Georgia (as what happened early the previous pre-dawn). We reached Ortachala around 14:20 and after a while, I ended up sharing a cab with another woman who was in the same marshrutka from Yerevan. The driver gestured that I was to pay 10 Lari for the ride to Avlabari. She and the driver got into an argument – I tell you, Georgians talk really loudly that I had problems differentiating if they were talking or arguing – and I started getting uncomfortable. So it was with relief when I spotted Isani metro station. The argument had by this time reached a peak and the woman got out and not to be outdone, I got out too and gave the driver 5 Lari. He started protesting and I told him 10 Lari was to Avlabari metro station and as I was getting off before then, 5 Lari should more than suffice. Then I turned and walked away before he could start shouting at me.

At the station, I paid for 3 Lari – 2 Lari for the card and 1 Lari for the value in the card (each trip costs 0.5 Lari)– and rode the train until Avlabari. At Avlabari, I had to ask a few people the direction and no one knew English. Finally I said ‘Abano?’ (short for Abanotubani which is the district in Old Tbilisi where my guest house was) and threw out my hands and one guy pointed the way. I walked down the road and was not amused to find a road construction ahead. Luckily, I met three teenagers and one of them told me the bridge ahead was closed but I could detour and use an alternative road. So I followed behind them down the hill. Whoa, I thought, it’d be a torture walking up this hill to Avlabari the next day.

I reached Red Fox Guesthouse about 15 minutes later and it was half-way up another steep hill. I didn’t realise Old Tbilisi is hilly! I forgot to save the safe box code in which Tamara, the owner, had left my room key so I struggled a bit. Thankfully, a British bloke came out and I asked if there was WiFi. He confirmed there was so I got in and used the WiFi to access my email for the code. I could have sworn I had saved the code but it turned out I didn’t. Anyway, no harm done.

After performing prayers, I went out to explore Old Tbilisi. It was a charming area with sulphuric bath houses (bain in French means bath so I gathered that bano is Georgian means bath too) and I enjoyed strolling around the bath houses before climbing up to the Central Mosque and down again and wandered around the streets. Then I walked across the Metekhi Bridge and walked along the Mtkvari River to the Bridge of Peace. I crossed back the river and wandered around before making my way back to the guesthouse. There are a lot of Muslim tourists and a few halal eateries so it’s really a Muslim-friendly city. I also noted with a little amusement those who approached me during my walk trying to sell of wine tours could speak English but it was so hard for me to find anyone who could speak English back at Avlabari just ten minutes away.

I arrived back at the guest house just after 20:00, had a shower and performed prayers before going down to the kitchen to have dinner. A Georgian couple had also returned to their room and I could hear their loud conversation. Either the walls were thin or it’s just their nature to speak loudly!

 A bathhouse

 Chreli Abano

Bridge of Peace

Wednesday, 12 September 2018

I went out early in the morning after showering and prayers. I always love going out for a brief morning walk and have the place all to myself. True enough, hardly a soul was out and about unless you count the workers who were already hard at work sweeping the pavement and clearing rubbish. I don’t know why more people don’t do this but in a way it’s great because I get to enjoy a peaceful morning and I can take pictures without being disturbed.

I returned back to the guest house and met Tamara, the owner. I had to wait while my breakfast was being prepared but it wasn’t a long wait. At times like that I would fantasise having my own small guesthouse to run but I doubt I have much patience to deal with annoying guests.

After breakfast, I returned to my room to retrieve my bag. I left it at the reception then walked over to Liberty Square metro station. While it wasn’t a hilly route, the station was much further than Avlabari. But it was OK because I didn’t have my suitcase with me then. From Liberty Square, I rode the metro to Didube (pronounced as Dee-do-bay) as I wanted to get a marshrutka from there to Mtskheta. Oh my, I wasted about 20 minutes walking around trying to find the counter. Hardly anyone spoke English and I don’t speak Russian. Finally I tried to locate the buildings in this post I read and saved the night before and eventually located the blinking counter. And guess what, the lady behind the counter could speak English!!! I paid GEL1 and boarded the marshrutka. It left at 10:30.

We arrived Mtskheta about 20 minutes later and I headed for Svetitskhoveli Cathedral, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. I walked around the cathedral before entering. Interestingly I found a bilingual epitaph in Georgian and Arabic scripts which I later found was for Tamar, the first wife of George XI, a Georgian monarch who had to nominally accept Islam before he could be confirmed as a viceroy by the then king of Iran. After that I walked out to the small bazaar outside to River Mtkvari (it looked more like a lake instead of a river) and across the river high up the hill was Jvari Monastery. There were many taxi drivers outside the cathedral offering to bring you to Jvari but I couldn’t spare the time.

 Svetitskhoveli Cathedral

Tamar’s tomb

I strolled back through the bazaar and set about locating the marshrutka stop for the ride back to Tbilisi and just about managed to board one. It was 11:55 then and we reached Didube at about 12:20. I rode the train back to Liberty Square and walked back to the guesthouse. After performing prayers and a light lunch, I left and walked up to Avlabari. I had thought about it on the walk back to the guest house and decided I didn’t fancy dodging tourists and lugging my suitcase up the cobbled streets to Liberty Square. From Avlabari, I rode the metro back to Didube and from there, I boarded a marshrutka to Kutaisi. The fare was GEL10.

It was supposed to be a 3.5-hour trip to Kutaisi but we were asked to change marshrutkas about 31km outside Kutaisi. The second marshrutka was newer, cleaner and more comfortable and I got down at the last stop which was just outside McDonald’s about five hours since I boarded the marshrutka in Tbilisi. There were other marshrutkas there heading back to Tbilisi and Batumi which is a city by the Black Sea. It’s tempting to go there (then I can say I went to both the Caspian and Black Seas in one trip) but I was going to fly out from Kutaisi the following afternoon so no Batumi on this trip. I wandered around and finally walked into McDonald’s in search of someone, anyone, who could speak English. I’m not the type to really speak out but needs must. So I marched to the counter and asked if anyone spoke English. Thankfully, the manager and one of the girls at the counter spoke some English and they helped me with the bus info. I had to go into McDonald’s again to ask where I should wait for the bus no. 1 to the city centre. She brought me out and pointed across the road and told me to wait outside a pharmacy. The marshrutka came within seconds and I reached the city centre minutes later. I got down at the first stop after we had crossed the river and walked to my guesthouse. And my, there were so many dogs around. I had to walk carefully around dog poo and potholes before reaching the guesthouse. I opened the gate and saw a Siamese cat. What a relief!

After putting away my bags, I ventured out to find a moneychanger to change my note into smaller denominations to pay for my room (my host didn’t have smaller change). It was approaching dusk then and when I returned to the guesthouse, it was already dark.

The owner had some guests or neighbours over and yes I could hear their conversation. It sounded somewhat like Japanese at some point. I was too knackered and managed to fall asleep.

To be continued

September Sojourn: Part II

Soundtrack: Walk On

Monday, 10 September 2018

We arrived at the border at 03:35 and after taking my bag, I joined the queue to clear passport control. It was a slow process and I stood queuing for about 35 minutes. Malaysians don’t need visa to enter Georgia but the immigration officer managed to find some problem with my passport and had to consult his colleague. I was then told to stand aside and I stood waiting for another 15 minutes. I didn’t know what the problem was and was slightly relieved when after some time a man was also asked to stand next to me. I was then called and after asking a few questions, my passport was stamped. We had to walk down and into a long corridor and about 200 metres into Georgia. The first thing I noticed even at that hour was the dogs.

After clearing the Georgian passport control, I loaded my suitcase then went across the road to find the washroom. I also performed ablutions as it was nearing Subuh then. We boarded the bus shortly after and I performed prayers in the bus. We reached Ortachala bus station in Tbilisi an hour later at 05:55. I had wanted to get a marshrutka to Yerevan from Avlabari metro station but I didn’t have any local currency and worse, hardly anyone spoke English except for a cabbie who said he could drive me to Avlabari for 20 Lari. Ortachala was a sad bus station but you can catch a bus from there to Turkey and Russia. After a while, I decided to climb up the stairs and I was glad I did because I found buildings and more importantly, I also saw a money changer. The advertised rates were USD1 = 2.55 Lari and €1=2.95. I sold off the 3 Manat I had, USD20 and €20 and received 144.35 Lari in return.

I was then approached by a minivan driver who offered to take me to Yerevan for 40 Lari. I had read that you could take a marshrutka for 35 Lari to Yerevan from Avlabari but figured it would cost me more than 5 Lari to get to Avlabari by cab. I tried asking but no one seemed to know if I could take any bus from Ortachala to Avlabari so I decided fine, I’d take the minivan to Yerevan from Ortachala. I freshened up with my suitcase opened in the car boot. After about 10 minutes, I was told to join another minivan to Yerevan. This second minivan was older and dustier. I tried to bargain the price down but either they really couldn’t understand me or pretended not to but when I showed 35 Lari, there was a lot of argument. Sigh. I agreed to pay 40 Lari because the first minivan looked newer and more comfortable but they couldn’t see it from my point of view. Oh well.

We left at 07:15 and I almost dozed off after a while because the Georgian countryside along the way to Yerevan was a bit dull. There were farms and cattle but that was about it. We reached the border at 08:30 and the process began again. We didn’t have to bring down our bags this time. After clearing the Georgian passport control, I exchanged USD10 for 4,300 Armenian Dram. I received a lot of coins from the exchange office and got a bit confused. We boarded the minivan then got down again to clear Yerevan immigration. I had to go to an officer who processed my visa on arrival application. A 21-day visa cost AMD3,000. After obtaining visa, I queued to clear the passport control and before long, I was in Armenia. Three countries in one day, woohoo! The road wasn’t good and bumpy in some parts. It didn’t help that the driver stopped a few times along the way. I wasn’t sure whether he did so because the engine was overheating or there was some other mechanical problem but he re-started the car again after a few seconds.

We arrived Yerevan at 13:00 and the driver let us off at Hrazdan Central Stadium. I refused his offer to help me find a taxi and went to ask for directions for Republic Square at a shop. I then set off down the hill and across Victory Bridge. I stopped again at Hotel Metropol and asked for directions and a map before continuing on to a park for shelter from the hot sun. There I sat down at a bench and studied the map again. After getting my bearings, I walked back and confirmed with two girls my direction before finding Feel Inn Hostel. There was no one at the reception and an Iranian fellow guest helped to ring the receptionist who turned out to be a Filipino. She told me there was no vacancy and I told her I had a booking with hotels.com which I had paid for. She told me the hostel only accepted booking from bookings.com and I insisted I had paid for the hostel. She told me to wait for her. An Aussie bloke and the Iranian guy offered to help me out if there was no vacancy by offering their beds. Whoa, thanks guys. I’d only met them like minutes and they were already so helpful and friendly. But yeah, I didn’t fancy the thought of sleeping in a men’s dormitory or mixed dormitory...

I decided to perform prayers and charge my devices while waiting. It wasn’t bad because I had access to the kitchen and bathroom and also WiFi. Plus it was still too dang hot to venture out.

The receptionist, Lot, came back and after a call to her manager, she acknowledged that my booking was good. She then offered me to stay in the female-only dormitory at the ground floor but I would have to share the dormitory with some school girls. Having sorted out the accommodation problem, I then ventured out to explore the city centre. My first visit was to the Blue Mosque, an Iranian Shia Mosque. A few German tourists arrived shortly after I did. I left after 20 minutes and walked to Republic Square. After some Kodak moments, I left and took the Northern Avenue to Freedom Square where the Opera Theatre was. The building didn’t impress me much though.

I left and went to search for a money changer. Then suddenly, the skies opened up and it started raining. Whoa. I continued walking and tried to find shelter or cover beneath some trees. I had earlier liberated my poor feet from the enclosed space of my Converse and was wearing my flip flops and after a while I had to walk gingerly as the rain fell harder and it became more slippery for me to walk in those flip flops.

Before returning to the hostel, I stopped at a supermarket to change money for the bus back to Tbilisi the following morning.

The rain finally petered off and stopped just before I reached the hostel. I had a shower and performed evening prayers before having a light dinner. The school girls came back then and my, were they a noisy lot. Noisy or not, I was too exhausted after the sleepless night of the preceding evening and was in bed before 23:00. I also had an early start the following morning.

 Blue Mosque

  Blue Mosque

 Republic Square

 History Museum of Armenia

Opera Theatre

 This bear at Yerevan Plaza is for sale

Hello Mikhi!

To be continued

September Sojourn: Part I

Soundtrack: A Whole New World

Friday, 7 September 2018

I left office 15 minutes early after obtaining permission from my boss and asking my staff to drive me to KL Sentral. It was drizzling then and after overcoming some bottleneck (it was a rainy Friday afternoon prior to a long weekend so you can just imagine it), we reached KL Sentral in time for me to catch the 17:15 train to KLIA. I used my debit card to pay for my ticket as it gave me 15% discount.

After dropping off my suitcase (it weighed 13.8 kg then), I went to clear passport control and security check before boarding the aerotrain. We boarded at 18:45 and took off on time. I decided to perform prayers in the plane instead of waiting until we arrive at Abu Dhabi.

We landed at Abu Dhabi Airport at 22:40 local time and were ferried to the terminal building. The temperature then was 34C and my, the desert heat just hit you and even at that time of night, the heat was brutal! I went through the transfer process and was at the duty-free area before long. After browsing some shops, I went to sit at the restaurant area before finding a place to rest. I finally found a deserted prayer room and joined two other ladies in there. It was so dang cold in there that I had problem sleeping.

Saturday, 8 September 2018

I left the prayer room after performing prayers and it was obvious that sleep would elude me. After a light breakfast, I made my way to gate 6 which was at a wing I had never been to. There I met a few Malaysian students but when I enquired about the visa requirement, they informed they were only transiting in Baku before continuing on to Moscow. I also saw a few Korean tourists on the same flight.

We took off just after 10 a.m. and it was already such a hot bright morning. I found myself sitting two seats away from the young Korean tour leader. After a while, I chatted with him. He told me he had a tourism-related degree and was based in Dubai and he has been leading tour groups from Korea to the Caucasus for six times thus far. I asked him some questions about the Azerbaijan visa, the local people etc. I was so thankful that I sat next to him because I managed to glean a few tips from him.

Alhamdulillah.

We landed at Baku Heydar Aliyev International Airport at 13:20 and I immediately walked out and headed to the visa kiosk. There are a few visa kiosks or you can also apply for your visa from the counter. Please note that only 15 nationalities can apply for visa on arrival so do check before you go. The visa costs USD26 and you must pay it in exact amount as the kiosk does not give change (I’m not sure if you will get change if you apply from the counter). A good-looking man came to help me at the kiosk. After paying the amount, I went through passport control before going down to the baggage area.

My bag didn’t take long to emerge and I was at the info counter when I saw the airport bus pass by. I had to wait another ½ hour for the next bus to 28 May metro station/Central Railway Station but it didn’t feel a long wait as I had to buy the BakuCard from the kiosk outside the terminal and it was a struggle as it was in local language. I had earlier exchanged €20 for 37.60 Manat and finally managed to buy a BakuCard with reload value in it totalling 5 Manat with the help of a local after struggling. It was a hot afternoon in Baku at 31C and I sought shelter behind an ad board before boarding the bus. the driver was a friendly chap who teased me every time I took a picture with my camera.

We reached the final stop, i.e., 28 May metro station after 25 minutes and after struggling with the map I downloaded, I asked a local girl who not only proceeded to show me the way but also accompanied me all the way to the hostel. She was not familiar with some places either but stayed on beside me. I felt so blessed today to have sat next to the Korean tour leader, to get help buying the BakuCard and now to have this girl guide me. She also asked some locals the way and finally we arrived at Hostel Baku Oil Boom 1891 at 161 Bashir Safaroglu Street. It was so much further and took a longer time to get to than indicated on Google Maps. I was a bit knackered by then and after checking in and performing prayers, I took a little rest. As I wasn’t sure how much the bus fare to Tbilisi was, I decided to head to Avtovağzal, the main bus station, to buy the ticket first before paying for my bed. This would help me decide if I should change more money.

After a brief explore around the neighbourhood, I trekked over to Nizami metro station about a km away and took the metro to Avtovağzal. It was about a four-minute ride from one station to another which to me was pretty long and an indication of how big the city is. The announcement for the next station was done in both Azerbaijani and English and every time the train approached a station, a music jingle would play. Nothing irritating but then again I only rode the train four times. And the fare is the same no matter how far you travel. I had to change trains at Memar Əcəmi where I had to walk up some stairs and then along a long corridor before going down to the platform. At Avtovağzal, I had to ask a few times before I got to the counter selling bus tickets to Tbilisi. Thank God the woman knew English. I was told there were 3 bus schedules to Tbilisi and chose the 21:00 bus (the other times are 22:00 and 23:00) and paid 16 Manat for the ticket for the following evening.

It was early evening by the time I arrived back at Nizami station. Before returning to the hostel, I walked around the neighbourhood to determine the route to be taken to Nizami. I had read that in Baku you have to cross roads only at the proper crossings (and the girl who accompanied me to the hostel also reiterated the same point) and at some areas where the roads are too wide, you need to peruse the underground tunnels. So I spent time determining the tunnels especially those with escalator access so that I could trek to Nizami with my bag and taking as few stairs as possible. I don’t mind stairs but I do mind them if I have a suitcase which I have to haul up and down those blasted stairs.

Back at the hostel, I showered and performed prayers before having dinner. There was a couple and an older woman in the kitchen and the guy was giving me hostile looks. There were only two other girls with me in the all-female dormitory so I managed to get the last blower bunk bed. Oh and another thing: there are many hostels in Baku but a lot of them have mixed dormitories hence why I chose this particular hostel.

Sunday, 9 September 2018

I woke up just after 03:00 then again at 04:35 to perform prayers. I could hear the call for prayers from my bed. Tried to sleep back but only managed to doze off pretty late before getting up again at 07:15 when my alarm rang. I packed after showering then went out for a morning walk up to Taza Pir mosque. It was a new mosque and I spent some time in the mosque compound before leaving. I saw another dome and headed for it and found Xanım Fatimeyi Zəhra məscidi but it was closed.

I went back to the hostel and paid 13 Manat for my bed. I had breakfast alone then left at 10:40 for the Old City. It took me about 20 minutes to get there. The Old City is surrounded by walls and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. I walked in the Old City for some time before exiting it and crossing over (again, by way of underground tunnel) to the promenade overlooking the Caspian Sea. It was a hot day but windy. Baku is indeed a very windy city; indeed it is also known as City of Winds. I walked along the promenade up to Park Bulvar Mall. I entered the Mall to seek some shelter and air-conditioned relief before turning back and walking back to the hostel. It was way too hot to be out and about anyway. Now I knew why the few tour packages from Malaysia to the Caucasus are usually in October because it was still just too hot in September!

Back at the hostel, I rested in the TV room and read my book. I performed prayers, took a shower and had an early dinner before performing evening prayers. I left the hostel at 19:25 and walked to Nizami for the metro to Avtovağzal. I reached Avtovağzal about an hour later and it was a good thing I decided to wander around because the bus for Tbilisi was at a different platform than specified on the ticket. I boarded the bus and found someone sitting in my seat. The conductor came up and after a brief discussion, indicated for me to sit at another seat. Unfortunately for me, an overweight woman then came to sit next to me. She was noisy and she kept chatting with other passengers. When others tired of her, she watched some video clips on her handphone – at full volume, mind you. When she decided to sleep, she bumped into me, took some of my space and of course invaded my personal space. WTF. The bus stopped a few times and I went down at the first stop to use the facilities.

 Taza Pir Mosque

 Breakfast

 Came upon this cat family on my way to the Old City

 In the Old City

 Maiden Tower

 Juma Mosque. Notice the cat?

To be continued