Monday, June 14, 2010

Getaway 2010: Episode 6

Friday, 28 May 2010: NRN - FEZ

Escape 2 Africa

We left the hotel early as we had to catch the 0700 bus to Weeze Airport. Yes, RyanAir always flies to/from airports located in remote places. It was drizzling when we left and the sun finally broke through at almost 8 am. We went to have our visa checked before dropping off our bags at the bag drop-off counter. And yes, just like Russia, we need to have visa to enter Morocco.

We were sitting down for some drinks when we heard our names being announced. Lin hurriedly drank her recently purchased cuppa and we rushed off to check. We went from the information counter to the service counter before someone at the gates told us we needed to go to the bag security area. That meant going through the screening procedure. One airport personnel was already waiting to lead us to the bag security area. Turned out they detected the lighter that Lin bought in Moscow and asked to see it. They examined it and having satisfied themselves that it didn’t contain any dangerous gas, told Lin her bag was clear.

We then joined the other exotic-looking passengers (most were Moroccans) in the boarding room. The ladies were really lovely but I can’t say the same for the guys. Well, think of new Arsenal boy, Marouane Chamakh. He’s not ugly but not overly handsome. Certainly not as good-looking as French Algerian Nasri.

We landed at Fès (also spelt as Fez) at 1220 and when we finally cleared immigration and collected our bags from the conveyor belt, our host Bernard was already waiting for us. After changing money at the moneychanger, we drove off to the city, about 15 km away. I was so excited to finally set foot on African soil!

In the car, we attempted to converse with Bernard. Not easy considering he’s French (he moved to Fès two years ago) but we got by with our limited French - and some hand gestures. He asked our plans and offered to take us to the train station the following day.

We finally reached the parking place near to his dwelling (near the tanneries! And Fès is well-known for its tanneries). Bernard then tipped some local lads to help us with our luggage and we walked the dusty path up and down to Dar Melody, a bed-and-breakfast kind of guesthouse run by himself and his wife, Laurence (and before the trip, I actually thought Bernard and Laurence were a couple of middle-aged men who were either in a relationship or the best of friends. Well, Laurence isn’t exactly a feminine name, is it?). And my, what a guesthouse it was. The couple took two years to renovate the place and live there too with their doll-hugging dog (I was surprised to see the dog but was relieved that it retreated with its doll in the couple’s bedroom on the ground floor. And I found out later that there are dogs in Muslim countries like Morocco. Maybe I expected it to be dog-free like Saudi Arabia). Our room was at the top floor (why do we always get top floor rooms especially in places where there are no lifts and the staircase is so narrow and steep???) and my, what a jaw-dropping lovely room it was too. Heck, we spent some time taking photos of the lounge and our room and we hadn’t even gone to the medina. Laurence served us some lovely strawberries and orange juice. Thoughtful!

After freshening up and performing prayers, Bernard brought us to the medina. He left us at Said Restaurant and we had our late lunch there before exploring the medina and the souk. As it was a Friday, quite a lot of shops were closed. Actually, all the better as we spent too long already at those that were opened! The medina of Fès is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

We chose to walk down Talaa Kebira (main road, kebira being a derivation of kabir which means big/large/great) over Talaa Seghira. There are signs to indicate where you are. These signs have an eight-point star shape that will guide you between the main places in the medina. Talaa Kebira runs from Bab Boujeloud all the way down to the Karaouiyne Mosque in the heart of the medina. We managed to get a henna tattoo, bought some souvenirs and snapped pictures all the way ;) I really, really, really love the medina despite the dust and dirt. It all seemed so authentic. I love the architecture and character of the medina too. And Fès is the handicraft capital of Morocco; so if you go, get your souvenirs here and not elsewhere. And bargain, bargain, bargain! I fell in love with so many things and it was all I could do not to buy them all. And they were sooo cheappp too *sigh*. It was my consideration for my bag (which was already hovering around 16 kg already. I know, I know, I packed too much. Again.) and the fact that my money is finite that disciplined me into purchasing only what I did. What can you get there? Leatherware, copper, babouche, potteries, carpets... the list goes on and on. Do beware of shopkeepers who want to introduce you to their cousin or uncle or brother whatnot who has a textile/carpet factory/store or who can show you the tannery or pottery is.

We walked down right to Karaouiyne Mosque before turning back. Not bad for our first day in Fès: we’d covered a major part of the medina without getting lost! Now to climb back up to where we started... we had dinner at Said Restaurant before requesting Said to help get a petit taxi back to Dar Melody.

I went to the rooftop for a night view of the medina. There was a full moon, a light breeze and a lovely temperature *sigh*. Heaven.

To be continued

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The host South Africa kicked off the World Cup with a fantastic goal but Mexico equalised later to deny all three points to Bafana Bafana (Carlos Vela was as anonymous as he was in the Arsenal jersey all season). The Demonic Domenech’s France played a dire match against 10-man Uruguay, Engerland drew with the USA after a Robert Green howler. South Korea had a convincing win over the Greeks while the Argentines played like the Arsenal (many shots but only one goal). Algeria the Desert Foxes were unlucky to lose, Ghana was lucky to win (I didn’t want Serbia to win anyway) and it was all about the German efficiency in the late match.

And Arsenal fan Lewis Hamilton won the Canadian Grand Prix! The McLaren duo won one-two and Lewis now leads the drivers championship for the first time in 18 months.