Yunnan And Hunan 2025: Part IV

Friday, 17 October 2025

I woke up to the sound of water which turned out to be rain. It rained on and on and finally I summoned enough energy to venture out and find the bus stop for the bus to the railway station. I walked all the way to Regent Hotel and then back again to finish packing. After checking out, I walked back to Regent Hotel and caught bus number 8 to the railway station.

I met a few Chinese Malaysians on the train to Kunming. In Kunming, I took the subway to the airport for my evening flight out to Changsha. I’d made my research and found that it was actually more economical to fly to Changsha instead of taking the high-speed train.

I had some spicy fried potato wedges and tofu for dinner at the airport. Then I performed prayers in a baby care room before walking to my gate.

The plane landed at 21:50 but we had to take buses to the terminal. I rode the metro from the airport to Changsha Railway Station (had to change lines). I had read that the Changsha subway operated only until 22:30 so was happy when the trains were still running until 23:30. I wasn’t keen on spending the night at the train station but I was even less keen to find a hotel and return to the station after five hours. 

Saturday, 18 October 2025

Of course sleep was elusive. I got up at 05:00 and went to perform ablutions. Alhamdulillah, I managed to find a quiet spot for me to perform morning prayers. After prayers, I walked to another waiting room which had just opened for the day for my 06:55 train to Zhangjiajiexi (Zhangjiajie West). I managed to charge my devices in the train although I did change seats (and was enquired by the train staff. I gestured that the woman sitting next to me was coughing and coughing and couldn’t be bothered to cover her mouth).

We reached Zhangjiajiexi and I followed signs to the bus station. I rode a local bus to Tianmen Mountain cable car station. The fare was 2 yuan but I had problems paying with Alipay. A white woman helped pay my fare and I had difficulty trying to pay her back by asking other passengers if they had change. Finally I managed to change my note with another passenger.

I got down and walked to Tianmen Mountain cable car then had to turn back to store my bag. I then joined the long queue for Line A (I’d bought ticket on Klook) to board the cable car. We had to queue outside first, then joined a sitting queue. Then we walked up the stairs and the queue began again. The ride took almost thirty minutes. At the top, I followed the West Line route first until completion before going on the East Line. The weather was dismal. It was raining and we could hardly see anything. Everything was shrouded in fog and mist and everyone was either wearing raincoat or holding umbrellas. Some had shoe covers on and I wondered if they were slippery.

After 90 minutes, I walked to the  cross-mountain escalator and rode the escalators down. Then I walked down 999 steps but the dreary weather meant we didn’t have a view of Tianmen Cave at all.

I then took the cable car down, this is a different cable car altogether and could fit 26 pax compared to the earlier cable car up which could only carry eight pax. From the base, I rode another shuttle bus to the Tianmen Mountain cable car entrance to retrieve my bag. Then I asked for directions where to wait for the bus to Wulingyuan. A kind woman helped me and even hailed the bus (mini van) for me. The fare was 13 yuan and the journey took about 50 minutes.

I got down and walked to my hotel on Wuling Road. The rooms are themed and I was thankful my room was only one flight up and the kind host helped carry my bag up. To my delight, there was a halal restaurant only two doors away from the hotel. After checking in and performing prayers, I ventured out. Dinner was had at another halal restaurant before I walked back to my room.

Sunday, 19 October 2025

I left the hotel after 07:40 this morning and walked to the East Gate of Zhangjiajie National Forest Park about 12 minutes away from the hotel. I then followed signs for Line A and boarded the shuttle bus to Tianzi Mountain cable car. I’d bought ticket via Klook as it was priced slightly better than on Trip.com. I then joined other visitors to queue for the cable car. Once up there, I took another shuttle bus. Well, I actually took the shuttle bus back and then out again. After a frustrating morning (the rain didn’t help improve my mood), I finally trekked the Golden Whip Crag route and then took a shuttle out to East Gate.

I walked back to my hotel and performed prayers before going to the halal restaurant two doors away for dinner. After dinner, I sat down with the host to consult him about Zhangjiajie National Forest Park. Yes, I should’ve done it before I left this morning but I didn’t expect to find myself confused. He tried to help me with the Bailong Elevator but because my ticket was purchased on Klook, he advised me to go there early the following morning.

To be continued

Yunnan And Hunan 2025: Part III

Tuesday, 14 October 2025 

I woke up early, showered and performed prayers. After breakfast, I headed out to the bus station to buy ticket to Dali for Thursday. Then I walked to the South Gate of Dayan Ancient Towns to find bus to Shuhe Ancient Town but I was told to go to another road to the north of Dayan. Against my will, I walked through Dayan Ancient Town again until I came upon the Giant Waterwheel. I followed the river then decided to detour a bit to find the mosque seeing as I was already in the vicinity. I had to walk down a road, cross it, walk up and climb a hill to get to the mosque but it was closed and deserted. The gate was opened but there was no sign of life. I peered among the slates and saw that it was indeed a mosque. It wasn’t prayer time yet then but weren’t there any caretakers at least?

I went back to the main road and walked up until I came upon Mao Zedong statue. After asking at a hotel, I went to wait at a bus stop near the statue. The bus came after ten minutes and I paid five yuan for my fare. We reached Shuhe Ancient Town about ten minutes later. I spent about two hours there.

I wanted to have lunch but the Muslim restaurant I went to was closed so I searched for a vegetarian restaurant and what do you know, there was actually one in Shuhe! There were two other Muslim restaurants but I decided to have vegetarian instead so I walked there and after some silent communication via Translate app, agreed to have vegetarian noodles. It came in a big bowl and believe me, I finished it all.

After walking around and stumbling upon photographers taking photos of couples in traditional wedding outfits, I walked out to catch a bus back to Lijiang. The driver let us all out at the bus stop across from Mao Zedong statue so I walked back up to Black Dragon Pool. I don’t know how China does it with its billion of people but everything is clean, orderly and structured. Park keepers are diligent in picking litters and collecting rubbish, and most people are careful and mindful enough not to litter. At Black Dragon Pool, you can enjoy view of Jade Dragon Snow Mountain and it makes for a special park. The water from the pool runs into the river that flows into Dayan Old Town. It all just made me sigh with contentment.

I decided not to walk through Dayan Ancient Town again so I walked along the main road back to the guesthouse, stopping en route at a fruit market to buy some peaches. I didn’t venture out for dinner - the vegetarian noodles were filling enough - and just had some snacks for dinner.

Wednesday, 15 October 2025  

I left the guesthouse at 06:50 and hurried to the bus station. The 07:00 bus left at 07:05 and went around the city picking up passengers from various points. We reached the Jade Dragon Snow Mountain Info Centre at around 08:25 and I went to the Information counter to ask if there were any more tickets to Glacier Park. Only 10,000 visitors are allowed at Glacier Park on any one day and I wasn’t to be one of them but I wasn’t too disappointed. I then followed signs for the bus to Yak Meadow and we had to wait about 15 minutes before we could board the next bus to Yak Meadow. The ride took more than 30 minutes before we reached the base of the cable car. I rode the cable car alone, indeed it could only seat two people comfortably. The cable car ride took another 30 minutes.

I then followed other visitors explore the park. Yak Meadow it may be called but I only saw one white yak. There were some goats pestering some visitors for food. There were signs forbidding us from feeding the wild animals because well, it would mess up with their digestive system, wouldn’t it. Some visitors though were feeding them food.

I walked for an hour around the meadow or park before returning to the cable car station for the cable car down. Before long, I had boarded the bus down. I thought the bus would go to the Information Centre and that I would have to wait for another bus to Blue Moon Valley (which I read from another visitor) but the bus stopped along the way to let visitors to Spruce Meadow down and then stopped at Blue Moon Valley so I happily went down. I walked up before walking down the lakes on the side which had fewer visitors. There are five lakes and they’re among the most beautiful scenery I’d seen in China as they’re set below the majestic and towering beauty of Yulong Snow Mountain. I spent an hour there before leaving.

I took the shuttle bus to the Information Centre and followed signs for bus number 101 back to Lijiang. Everyone was sleepy in the bus in the afternoon heat. The bus dropped us just outside Dayan Old Town so I walked back to my guesthouse. I ventured out again in the early evening to find dinner. 

Thursday, 16 October 2025

I left the guesthouse at 07:40 and walked to the bus station for my 08:00 bus to Dali. Well, the bus actually left at 08:13 and stopped once for the driver to fill up and for us to use the facilities. We reached Dali just before 11:00 and I got down the bus just outside Dali Ancient Town, crossed the road and walked down the pedestrian shopping street which were thronged by shoppers and vendors.

After checking in, I ventured out to explore Dali Ancient Town, one of the few in China that is surrounded by walls. Then I walked on to the Chongsheng Temple and Three-Pagoda area. The three pagodas are the landmark of Dali. I walked in and up the many, many steps within the area to see the complex of temples. It started raining while I was there and it wouldn’t let up for the next few days. I spent exactly two hours there including waiting out the relentless rain.

I returned to the Old Town and bought some food from a halal street vendor. This would be my dinner.

To be continued