Wednesday, March 04, 2020

My Leap Year Weekend In Belitung


On Singles’ Day (11/11) last year, I decided to check out Belitung, a new route which was launched by AA on 19 August 2019 and commenced on 2 October 2019. After pondering, I decided I would go on the last weekend in February just before my passport expired. Yup, my last trip on this passport.

I departed on Friday, 28 February 2020, amidst the Novel Coronavirus fears. I stood guided by TheOrganisation’s and World Health Organisation’s travel advisories. Indonesia is not a high risk country yet (although questions arise of course on its detection methods and accuracy) and we can still travel as long as we exercise the necessary precautions.

I guess I shouldn’t be surprised when I saw bus fares to the airport slashed (to RM5 if I saw it correctly) but I had already bought my return ticket online so that was that. We arrived at KLIA2 at 09:51 and I rushed through the terminal, through baggage check, passport autogate, the trek to the gates, security check and finally reached my gate within 20 minutes of arrival. KLIA2 was pretty deserted by its standards.

Our flight departed slightly later than scheduled and we landed at Tanjung Pandan airport at 11:45 local time, 15 minutes later than scheduled. I was surprised to find a light drizzle greeting us as we walked down the airplane and across the tarmac towards the small terminal. We had to queue and hand over the yellow health alert form and indicate our plane seat number on the form. Then we had to join another queue for passport control.

I also had to have my bag subjected to inspection as they spotted some object in my bag. So I opened it up and after poking around, I opened the outer zip. It turned out that the object was my brolly. Meh.

I tried finding WiFi access to order a Grab car but couldn’t get connected so when I exited, I approached tfhe information counter. I was about to ask if the chap could help contact Grab for me when he said the taxi fare was standard to town (IDR95k) and that Grab would cost more. I asked if there was an angkot or even a bus and was told I had to walk out and it’d be far to walk out. A cabbie had approached the desk by then and when I said I had read that someone got a Grab to a hotel in town (about one km from my hotel) and he paid IDR55k, the annoying cabbie laughed and jeered at me. I gave him a look and commented to the chap at the info counter that I had done my homework and knew what I was talking about. The stupid shit! The chap said I could try the Grab counter and pointed me to the kiosk so after picking up two brochures, I headed for the kiosk. The stupid moron was there and when he saw me pass by, he loudly told his friends about me wanting to get to my hotel for IDR55k and I yelled back, yeah, I did my homework, I knew what I was talking about and that I heard his annoying comment the first time. You prick first-class jerk!

I was not pleased to find the people at Grab kiosk quoting me over IDR100k for the fare. Suddenly, a cabbie appeared next to me and offered to bring me for IDR80k. I thought quickly and accepted. In the car, he told me if I had approached the taxi counter (I didn’t), they would quote me IDR95k. However, passengers could approach a cabbie (or likewise) and negotiate the fare. Hmm.

It took about 25 minutes to reach Rahat Icon Hotel at Jln Depati Rahat. I had made a reservation via Booking.com and at the point of booking, there was an option to pay then at a lower cost so I chose that. My two-night stay cost me only MYR74.17. We arrived at the hotel and I paid the driver before taking pictures and then the stairs up to the reception on the second floor (first floor to us). I was told check-in was at 13:00 (it was 12:56 then, duh!) so I sat and filled in the check-in form and paid IDR100k deposit before being given my room key. I had read that WiFi is only available in the lobby so I sat and checked my emails and social media before going up to my room. There was a water dispenser in the lobby and it was so breezy sitting there. There was a dining area also to the side and I glanced at the menu. The prices looked reasonable too. I don’t know why hotel reviews mention there was no lift when I found one that goes from the ground floor to fourth floor (first to fifth floor to them).

I went up to the third floor (second floor to us) and after depositing my bag, I walked to find lunch. I had read about Mie Atep Belitung so I walked along Jl. Sriwijaya to the small restaurant. I only realised the restaurant was Chinese-owned but I had lunch there anyway, assured by the halal signs around the restaurant. It was a hot sweltering walk to and from lunch and I returned immediately to the hotel after lunch. After a brief check with social media, I had a nap.

I woke up at 17:00 local time and went out at 17:20. I walked all the way to Tanjung Pendam and got there just before sunset. I didn’t stay long as I didn’t want to walk back in the dark. The locals had told me it was a safe place and even motor owners leave their keys in the engine but I decided I should still exercise precaution.

I went to a bakery across the street from Barata Department Store just off the Satam Square roundabout and bought some buns and bread for the following day. Apart from one or two convenience shops, I couldn’t locate any supermarket.

I had chicken noodle soup for dinner at a small restaurant across the road from BW Inn. It was surprisingly tasty and was so cheap too.

I returned to the hotel, had a shower and rested.

On Saturday, I woke up early and ventured out to find breakfast. I decided to turn right at Jln. Sriwijaya and found a Chinese shop selling Malay and Chinese kuih. There were a lot of varieties but the food was uncovered and exposed to the dust and flies so I walked on. I passed an abandoned cemetery and then a man selling chicken porridge. I even passed the hotel I had originally booked and subsequently cancelled.

I was about to give up when I spotted a Malay shop across the street. There were some kuih left and this time, the seller had the kuih all covered up from the dust and flies. I bought one each of three types and returned to the hotel.

I had booked a tour with Belitung Taxi to East Belitung (Belitung Timur or Beltim) minus two sites, i.e., Kampung Ahok and Vihara Kuan In and replaced with Tanjung Kelayang and Tanjung Tinggi. I was quoted IDR650k (including optional trip to open pit mine). It was a good thing I reminded the company the evening before as the person who responded to my message seemed unaware of my booking. For my tour booking, I had to call the number on the website two days before my departure after my query via the website went unanswered for more than a week.

The driver, Udin, was already there before 08:00. Tours usually start at 09:00 but I requested an early start. First thing I asked Udin was if he had been waiting long and if he smoked. We drove east and stopped first at the Kaolin Lake, a man-made lake that resulted from kaolin mining activities. We stopped there for about 20 minutes before driving on to the replica school of Sekolah Dasar Muhammadiyah which was used in the shooting of Laskar Pelangi movie. I had to pay IDR5k for entrance. There’s a lake nearby; unfortunately, I couldn’t get a good picture of it due to the surrounding trees.

After that, we drove to Dermaga Kirana just across from the replica school site. Again, I had to pay IDR5k for the ticket. There are conch-shaped buildings on a platform which overlook a lake. It was tranquil and peaceful there with lovely breezes blowing every now and then. I spent some time here before leaving. Next, we drove to Museum Kata Andrea Hirata,a structure with a colourful exterior. I was content to just snap photos and told Udin I didn’t want to enter.

After that, we drove on. The day was alternating sunshine and clouds and we drove occasionally into drizzle and rain and sunshine. It was drizzling when we arrived at Burung Mandi beach and it was deserted. There were many colourful fishing boats there all along the beach. We stayed for about 20 minutes before leaving. We drove, heading for Tanjung Tinggi beach. Lulled by the quiet calm driving (no one rushed or sped there, not even the motorcyclists!), I started to feel sleepy and even dozed off (!). When I woke up, we were passing some granite boulders.

We finally reached Tanjung Tinggi beach. There are a lot of granite boulders and seaweeds washed upon the beach there. There are also a lot of food stalls there. We headed for the boulders and climbed some of them. It was noon then and hot. There were a lot of people about taking photos. We spent about half an hour before leaving.

We then drove to a Chinese-owned restaurant and had lunch there. I didn’t want to linger so we left after lunch and headed for Tanjung Kelayang beach. There is a port here for those who want to go island hopping. It was too hot so I was glad to return to the AC comforts of the car. Udin then brought me to Samoos, a souvenir shop. I wasn’t planning to shop and only bought a packet of coffee crisps as I thought it was unique.

Our final pitstop was Bukit Berahu beach. We drove up a hill and I paid IDR10k for entrance (the ticket includes a cup of tea, coffee or mineral water at the restaurant). The restaurant is on a hill overlooking the beach and some small islands. I walked down the steps to the beach and there were about half a dozen chalets there. Those who stay there must really be fit as you need to climb up and down just for your meals. We spent close to an hour there before leaving. Udin brought me to another souvenir shop and some things (like the coffee crisps I had bought) cost less at this second shop. Grrr.

Udin wanted to bring me to Tanjung Pendam but I told him I had already gone there the evening before and to just bring me back to the hotel. A solo passenger like myself took less time to bring around as I took shorter time to take photos compared to a group. There was also shorter waiting time compared to a group and we did start early. All these meant it wasn’t surprising that we were able to conclude my tour within ten plus hours.

I checked social media in the lobby before returning to my room to rest. I ventured out after dark for dinner and had it at a stall diagonally across from the hotel. I had tekwan (a local dish of fish pieces cooked in noodle soup. I made the mistake of adding a miniscule amount of chilli and it turned out to be super spicy) and then fish bakso (I’d neither heard nor had that before). I then took a short walk around before returning to my room.

On Sunday, I woke up early again and after breakfast, after pondering, I made my way to the traditional market. It was an overcast morning which made for a pleasant walk. The market was bustling with people doing their marketing. Motorcycles are allowed to pass through the market so you have to make way and watch out for them as you go about your business. I walked on to the river and from there, I could see part of the port. Then I turned back and walked back to the hotel.

I checked out at 09:50 and collected my deposit. The cab was already waiting for me and we left before 10:00. It took about 15 minutes only to reach the airport and I went in after browsing the restaurants outside the airport. I sat down to read first before going through security and passport control. I went in at 11:20. The plane from KL landed at 11:40 and we boarded at almost noon. The plane was quite empty and I changed seats before take-off.

We landed at KLIA2 at 14:45. I had to wait a while for the bus back to KL Sentral. There was a haze when I emerged from the terminal and even with my face mask on, I could smell smoke. It was sunny and bright when we reached KL Sentral though.

So that was my trip to Belitung. It was my last trip with that passport as my passport expires on 7 September 2020.