Monday, September 28, 2015

Autumn In My Heart: Third Beat

Tuesday, 15 September 2015

I had breakfast at 0900 this morning. The other guest checked out soon after and I was enjoying my breakfast, the front door opened and in came the owner, evidently back from a morning walk with al cane. They came into the kitchen, well, the dog did first. He saw me and bared his teeth with a low growl. I made some noise and the owner came and admonished him. Ha, served you right. I was ready to be friendly but you couldn’t even reciprocate.

I left at 1015 and walked to the train station. Well, I could have taken bus no. 1 but I decided to walk. It was still pleasant although the temperature was rising of course. I reached the station after 20 minutes and I bought a ticket. It cost €1.95.

The train left at 1045 and I reached the airport stop 5 minutes later. From there, you have to walk up and cross the tracks to the terminal building. I went to the counter for visa check (silly when it was a domestic flight but rules are rules and I didn’t want any trouble later) and was told that I would need to check in my bag – at no cost – as the flight was full.

Well, we took off later than scheduled and of course landed later than scheduled. To make it worse, we had to wait more than 30 minutes before the bags even emerged. Most definitely one significant downside to checking in.

I went out and saw some buses. I also saw the train station. I decided I’d take the bus and went back into the terminal to ask where I could catch bus no. 16 to the city. The girl at the info counter said I could take the train and as for buses, she didn’t know much. Cursing silently, I went down again and what did I see but the red bus no. 16. I paid the driver €1.50 for the ticket. The bus left shortly after and it was a thirty-minute ride to the city. The bus terminated at Piazza Aldo Moro which is near Bari Centrale. I got down and walked the short distance to my B&B.

I tell you, I was so happy I booked that B&B. It was so charming, tastefully and beautifully decorated. I had two single beds in my room and the kitchenette was just outside my room. There was a small table by the door to the flat with brochures on it and the shared bathroom was modern and as far from a hostel’s shared bathroom as it could be. It was cosy, comfortable, strategically located and I haven’t even got to breakfast that they served.

I rested for a bit and ventured out at 1630 when I felt the sun was not as intense. I walked up to the Adriatic Sea, stopping en route at Via Sparano da Bari where I browsed the shops before continuing on to the old town. The old town reminded me of the old towns of Alghero and Cagliari with its narrow winding lanes with buildings stand neck to neck with each other with an exception: there’s a castle in Bari, the Swabian Castle. I was enjoying my aimless stroll when a little girl came up to me and begged for money. She began following me around and I quickly walked away. That put a stop to my wanderings and I left the old town and made my way back to the city.

I wandered in the Murat quarter searching for a supermarket and I found three minimarkets (two Asian ones too!) but they didn’t have what I want. I then returned to the area around the train station and found a halal fast food restaurant. I went in and had a chicken burger for dinner. I then returned to the B&B, had a shower and watched an Italian show. I don’t speak the language but it still had me laughing in stitches.

Wednesday, 16 September 2015

Breakfast was served from 0830 and as I was planning to go to Matera, I requested it to be served at 0830. And my, was I served. The owner came bearing a tray promptly at 0830 and set the heavy tray on the table in my room. The tray was delightful and made me feel like clapping my hands. The cake was handmade by the owner (!!!), the plum jam by his girlfriend (!!!). I had a leisurely breakfast and saved those I could not finish in the fridge.




I walked to the train station (not Trenitalia at Bari Centrale), not Ferrotranviaria (which serves the airport) but Ferrovie AppuloLucane. I had checked the train schedule the evening before and bought a return ticket for the 0951 train for €9.80 (€4.90 a way). The train departed on time and we arrived at Matera at 1125. There were quite a few tourists who alighted too and we were unsure where to head as there was no map or sign at the train station. I decided to cross the street, heading for a red building and my instinct was right. It housed the info centre and the helpful girl gave me a map and pointed the directions to me. I thanked her and set off for the historical area or Sassi. The lady at the info centre told me it would take three hours to cover the ancient area.




So I walked down Via Don Giovanni Minzoni and Via Ascanio Persio to Piazza Vittorio Veneto. After admiring the view from a platform, I walked down the stairs to enter the Sassi. I walked the winding roads, marvelling at the buildings which were dug into the rock. It was truly amazing. There are two parts: Sasso Barisano and Sasso Caveoso. I covered Sasso Barisano first before circling its perimeter to Monastry Sant’Agostino then going down and following the curve of Via Madonna delle Virtu before climbing up to Casa di Ortega. Then I walked to Piazza Duomo and from Piazza Duomo, I went on to cover Sasso Caveoso. I was looking across to Piazza San Pietro Caveoso when suddenly three dogs came bounding over to me and I almost shouted out. Two of them came nearer and looked as if they were either going to attack or wrestle me to the ground and I told them to go away. Fortunately, the owner came shortly after. Phew. Good thing I wasn’t caught yelling at the dogs or threatening to throw stones at them.

I spent less time in Sasso Caveoso compared to Sasso Barisano – for some reason, I didn’t find as much to marvel at. I found myself walking up Via Bruno Buozzi and before long, I was already climbing up and next thing I knew, I was already at Via Casalnuovo and at street level. I was out by 1318 which meant I spent only 1.5 hours in there. I wandered along Via Casalnuovo and even contemplated going into the Sassi again but if I missed the 1424 train back to Bari, I’d have to take the next train at 1622 so I decided I had covered enough and walked back to the station.

Despite arriving late, the train reached Bari at 1557. I had searched for Supermercato Conad on Google Maps the evening before and it turned out there was one near my B&B. So I headed for Conad but left empty-handed as nothing caught my fancy. I had ramen which I bought in Cagliari for dinner. The food which I saved from my breakfast leftover had vanished without a trace.


To be continued