Tuesday,
15 September 2015
I
had breakfast at 0900 this morning. The other guest checked out soon after and
I was enjoying my breakfast, the front door opened and in came the owner,
evidently back from a morning walk with al cane. They came into the kitchen,
well, the dog did first. He saw me and bared his teeth with a low growl. I made
some noise and the owner came and admonished him. Ha, served you right. I was
ready to be friendly but you couldn’t even reciprocate.
I
left at 1015 and walked to the train station. Well, I could have taken bus no.
1 but I decided to walk. It was still pleasant although the temperature was
rising of course. I reached the station after 20 minutes and I bought a ticket.
It cost €1.95.
The
train left at 1045 and I reached the airport stop 5 minutes later. From there,
you have to walk up and cross the tracks to the terminal building. I went to
the counter for visa check (silly when it was a domestic flight but rules are
rules and I didn’t want any trouble later) and was told that I would need to
check in my bag – at no cost – as the flight was full.
Well,
we took off later than scheduled and of course landed later than scheduled. To
make it worse, we had to wait more than 30 minutes before the bags even
emerged. Most definitely one significant downside to checking in.
I
went out and saw some buses. I also saw the train station. I decided I’d take
the bus and went back into the terminal to ask where I could catch bus no. 16
to the city. The girl at the info counter said I could take the train and as
for buses, she didn’t know much. Cursing silently, I went down again and what
did I see but the red bus no. 16. I paid the driver €1.50 for the ticket. The
bus left shortly after and it was a thirty-minute ride to the city. The bus
terminated at Piazza Aldo Moro which is near Bari
Centrale. I got down and walked the short distance to my B&B.
I
tell you, I was so happy I booked that B&B. It was so charming, tastefully
and beautifully decorated. I had two single beds in my room and the kitchenette
was just outside my room. There was a small table by the door to the flat with
brochures on it and the shared bathroom was modern and as far from a hostel’s
shared bathroom as it could be. It was cosy, comfortable, strategically located
and I haven’t even got to breakfast that they served.
I
rested for a bit and ventured out at 1630 when I felt the sun was not as
intense. I walked up to the Adriatic Sea, stopping en route at Via Sparano da
Bari where I browsed the shops before continuing on to the old town. The old
town reminded me of the old towns of Alghero and Cagliari with its narrow
winding lanes with buildings stand neck to neck with each other with an
exception: there’s a castle in Bari, the Swabian Castle. I was enjoying my
aimless stroll when a little girl came up to me and begged for money. She began
following me around and I quickly walked away. That put a stop to my wanderings
and I left the old town and made my way back to the city.
I
wandered in the Murat quarter searching for a supermarket and I found three
minimarkets (two Asian ones too!) but they didn’t have what I want. I then
returned to the area around the train station and found a halal fast food
restaurant. I went in and had a chicken burger for dinner. I then returned to
the B&B, had a shower and watched an Italian show. I don’t speak the
language but it still had me laughing in stitches.
Wednesday,
16 September 2015
Breakfast
was served from 0830 and as I was planning to go to Matera, I requested it to
be served at 0830. And my, was I served. The owner came bearing a tray promptly
at 0830 and set the heavy tray on the table in my room. The tray was delightful
and made me feel like clapping my hands. The cake was handmade by the owner
(!!!), the plum jam by his girlfriend (!!!). I had a leisurely breakfast and
saved those I could not finish in the fridge.
I
walked to the train station (not Trenitalia at Bari Centrale), not
Ferrotranviaria (which serves the airport) but Ferrovie AppuloLucane. I had checked the train schedule the evening before and bought a return
ticket for the 0951 train for €9.80 (€4.90 a way). The train departed on time
and we arrived at Matera at 1125. There were quite a few tourists who alighted
too and we were unsure where to head as there was no map or sign at the train
station. I decided to cross the street, heading for a red building and my
instinct was right. It housed the info centre and the helpful girl gave me a
map and pointed the directions to me. I thanked her and set off for the
historical area or Sassi. The lady at the info centre told me it would take
three hours to cover the ancient area.
So
I walked down Via Don Giovanni Minzoni and Via Ascanio Persio to Piazza
Vittorio Veneto. After admiring the view from a platform, I walked down the
stairs to enter the Sassi. I walked the winding roads, marvelling at the
buildings which were dug into the rock. It was truly amazing. There are two
parts: Sasso Barisano and Sasso Caveoso. I covered Sasso Barisano first before
circling its perimeter to Monastry Sant’Agostino then going down and following
the curve of Via Madonna delle Virtu before climbing up to Casa di Ortega. Then
I walked to Piazza Duomo and from Piazza Duomo, I went on to cover Sasso
Caveoso. I was looking across to Piazza San Pietro Caveoso when suddenly three
dogs came bounding over to me and I almost shouted out. Two of them came nearer
and looked as if they were either going to attack or wrestle me to the ground and
I told them to go away. Fortunately, the owner came shortly after. Phew. Good
thing I wasn’t caught yelling at the dogs or threatening to throw stones at
them.
I
spent less time in Sasso Caveoso compared to Sasso Barisano – for some reason,
I didn’t find as much to marvel at. I found myself walking up Via Bruno Buozzi
and before long, I was already climbing up and next thing I knew, I was already
at Via Casalnuovo and at street level. I was out by 1318 which meant I spent
only 1.5 hours in there. I wandered along Via Casalnuovo and even contemplated
going into the Sassi again but if I missed the 1424 train back to Bari, I’d
have to take the next train at 1622 so I decided I had covered enough and
walked back to the station.
Despite
arriving late, the train reached Bari at 1557. I had searched for Supermercato
Conad on Google Maps the evening before and it turned out there was one near my
B&B. So I headed for Conad but left empty-handed as nothing caught my
fancy. I had ramen which I bought in Cagliari for dinner. The food which I
saved from my breakfast leftover had vanished without a trace.
To
be continued
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