Pre-Departure
(i) Visa
You
need visa to enter Myanmar even if you’re a citizen of an ASEAN country. For my
first trip, I paid a travel agent to help secure visa for me; I found that not
all travel agents were prepared to do so though. Over the past few months, I
had noticed a sign offering visa services to Myanmar at one of the shop blocks
near Masjid Jamek LRT station so in early January, I decided to check it out. I
had browsed the web and came armed with my passport, two passport-sized photos,
my flight itinerary and money. The agency is Ever Fine Travel & Tour and it’s
on the same block as Burger King, two doors away from 7-11. I went during lunch
and was shocked to see so many people there – Myanma nationals and foreigners
and a few Malaysians. I requested for a form, took my number and filled the
visa application form as I sat down to wait. There were about 70 people ahead
of me (!) and I became agitated and worried should I be unable to submit my application
before lunchtime was over. Only two people were there to receive our forms. Fortunately,
quite a few people had decided to give up their turn and left (not enough
though) and my number was finally called at a quarter to 2. I was surprised to
learn that I had to pay RM140 (I brought just enough with a few Ringgit left
for change!). Turned out the fee was RM110 but the processing fee was RM30. Hefty,
but nowhere as bad as the American or Russian visas. I was told to return the
next evening to collect my passport. I returned the next evening and braved the
torrential downpour.
The
visa was valid for three months from the application date so if you’re not in a
hurry, you may want to do it as close to your departure date as possible. The form
asks for your address in Myanmar so it would be a good idea to know an address.
(ii) Airline
From Kuala Lumpur, you can fly MAS, AirAsia or Myanmar Airways International to Yangon. I bought my MAS ticket in end-July 2013 for a bargain.
(ii) Accommodation
I
had enquired on some accommodation at Nyaung Shwe but ended up staying at May
Guesthouse after getting the contact from Aud. The guesthouse was good and my
only complaint is the paper-thin wall. You can practically hear your neighbour
yawning! I didn’t book any accommodation in Mrauk U and relied on the boat
owner’s recommendation (stay at Lay Myoe River Guesthouse at your own risk!). I
had earlier booked and paid for a room in Agga Guesthouse in Yangon via Agoda.
(iv) Money,
Money, Money
Bring
brand new crisp USD notes. You can change at the airport upon arrival. Funnily enough,
you can only change up to USD100 per person so if you want to change more, you’ll
need to visit two or more booths. And some moneychangers charge different rates
for different denominations. Bigger denomination notes have more favourable
exchange rates compared to smaller notes of course. Some moneychangers made a
fuss over my USD notes but some others didn’t even blink. I found it annoying
when they examined those notes which I received as change from Air Mandalay and
Agga Guesthouse (for my impromptu first night’s stay) and told them so. So you
could give me old notes but I must give you new notes? And I would have
problems changing your old creased folded notes. Stupid.
Exchange
rate is roughly MMK980 for every USD100. At some places which accept USD, they
may round it up to MMK1000 to every USD100.
(v) When
To Go
The
best time to go is in the ‘winter’ from November to February. The hottest
months are April and May. Avoid going there then! My parents went to Yangon in
May a few years ago and they told me the heat was simply unbearable. It was so
hot and sweltering that they ended up seeking refuge in the air-conditioned bus
as long as they could. The monsoon season is from mid-May to end-October.
(vi) Where
To Go and Getting Around
There
are many places in Myanmar worth checking out; however, you would need to take
the plane and boat getting to places like Sittwe and then on to Mrauk U. I know
there are buses, I’d read about that there is a bus from Mrauk U back to Sittwe
and even my guide told me about it but foreigners are just not allowed to take
this bus. For most other places opened to foreigners, you can take a bus from
Yangon or Mandalay to get there. It will take some time and it’s fine if you
have the time. You can also take the train to some cities. Trains are slow but
if you have the time, why not? I had checked out the routes and noted the fares
quoted by some airlines. I then emailed some of the airlines but only Air
Mandalay bothered to reply. However, I think it’s fine if you decide to only
buy ticket at the airport as not all flights seemed to be full and for popular
destinations like Heho (for Inle Lake), Bagan and Mandalay, all airlines fly there
from Yangon so even if one airline is full, you can move on to the next
airline. It is a huge country and flying does help save time if you’re hard
pressed for it like me.
Mrauk
U was closed to foreigners for two years and only reopened in early 2013 due to
the volatility (even now, there’s some unrest in Sittwe). Take note that the
government boat leaves at 7 am from Sittwe to Mrauk U and also at 7 am from
Mrauk U back to Sittwe. It doesn’t run every day though.
(vii) Food
The locals have hardy stomachs and they can eat at stalls along the streets. If you have a weak sensitive tummy like I do, find a restaurant. I did eat at a stall in Nyaung Shwe and was alright but got violently ill after eating dinner in Mrauk U (I got sick 20 hours later). It’s quite difficult to find vegetarian restaurants, the locals like to eat meat a lot and I avoided those that serve pork (I came across a restaurant serving frog curry in Mrauk U. Euuuwww!). I saw a Tandoori restaurant in Nyaung Shwe and in Yangon, it’s much easier to find halal food.
Some Observations
We
had to sail up to Mrauk U for a few hours in the dark and although there was no
moon (it being the beginning of the new month and Chinese New Year), there were
thousands of stars above. It was still chilly (I don’t know if it would be cold
outside the winter months) and I didn’t even pack a jacket. It was very cold
going downstream back to Sittwe from Mrauk U (we did sail off at 7 am after all)
but it gradually got warmer. It was even somewhat cold taking the boat on Inle
Lake due to the breeze and morning temperature.
Yangon
is now a busy thriving city compared to when I was first there in October 2009.
There are more modern new vehicles on the road compared to the dilapidated
vehicles then, the roads are better and clogged too. There is this vibrant
feeling in the atmosphere which I didn’t feel before. Of course they just
hosted SEA Games in December 2013.
There
are hardly any more blackouts. I did experience two very brief episodes lasting
less than five minutes each time.
I
had phone reception in Yangon but lost it in Nyaung Shwe. Somehow I regained it
in Mrauk U and back in Yangon. However, the texts were delayed and I only found
out about footie scores hours after the match (thanks anyway, ZS). Previously, I
was cut off from the world altogether.
There
are many foreigners flocking to Myanmar now. Asian tourists are fewer and Malaysians?
I didn’t come across any. I was the only Malay on the flight bound for Myanmar
save for another Malay family. The Chinese travellers may have business in
Yangon.
I
didn’t encounter any children begging for money or running after me eager to
sell their trinkets in Mrauk U, unlike in Bagan where I was swarmed and
surrounded.
Is
it safe to travel there? Yes, very much. Do keep up-to-date on news in highly
volatile areas though. Drink only bottled water and keep safe. And enjoy the
country!
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