Tuesday, October 18, 2011

Sandakan

I flew to Borneo - for the fifth this year - last Friday, this time to Sandakan. The ticket was purchased in end-March and I was initially worried if the route had been cancelled but thankfully it remained. It was an early morning flight, so early that we left home at a quarter to 5 am - Abah drove me to KL Sentral and I took the 0520 train to the airport. The ETD was 0700 but as everyone had boarded by 0650, we were already ready to taxi by 0655.

I dozed on and off (woken up twice by the air stewardess who asked me to place my handbag at my feet during take-off and again when she wanted to clear my meal - which I had already packed off in the paper bag all ready for her to clear, duh!). We landed at 0935, 10 minutes earlier than scheduled. I had earlier mulled between visiting Sepilok on Friday or making my way there on Saturday. I don’t like crowds and when I found that it was nearer to get to Sepilok from the airport than from town, that helped make up my mind. So I bought a taxi coupon to take me to Sepilok (RM35) and reached the
Rainforest Discovery Centre (RDC) about 20 minutes later.

There was a Borneo Bird Festival at the RDC during the weekend so the entrance fee was waived. I left my bag at the counter and set off to explore the area. First, I headed to the nearby Plant Discovery Garden. Then I made my way to the Hornbill Tower and climbed up. I spent about 20 minutes there but couldn’t locate any hornbill at all (let alone any bird, although I did hear chirping every now and then)... ;( Next, I made my way to the canopy walkway; I joined the walkway at Bristlehead Tower and walked to Trogon Tower before heading back to Keruing Cafe where the walkway starts.

After performing prayers, I left. The friendly girl at the counter had told me it would take 20 minutes’ walk to get to the Sepilok Orang Utan Rehabilitation Centre and it took me exactly that. And mind you, I was lugging my trolley bag behind me in the hot sun too! Had it not been for my bag and heat, it probably would have taken me less time.

The Centre was closed when I arrived (it reopens at 2 pm) so I headed for the cafeteria to have lunch. If you ever go there, please do not order kuay teow soup which was what I did. My meal was so bland, tasteless, pathetic and over-priced. I only finished it because I didn’t want to let my tummy go empty.

At 2, I went to buy my entrance ticket (RM5, add RM10 for your camera. Foreigners play more) then went to store my bag in the locker at the storage area (free). You are supposed to leave everything there by the way except for your camera and locker key (in case the orang utan wants to grab your handbag from you). There was a video show also so I took refuge from the heat and joined the other visitors in the air-conditioned room. The video lasted about 25 minutes.

Then I walked to the feeding area. We saw a mother and her baby on a platform - she studiously ignored us. There was another orang utan who was enjoying the attention of the Caucasian visitors a few metres away. You can tell he was used to this as he was not at all disturbed by our presence. As time approached 3 pm, other orang utans started swinging by one by one.

At 3, one of the Centre’s employee came up (I didn’t notice which way he came from; suddenly he was already on the platform emptying his pail of fruits before leaving as quickly as he had come).

The mother who was earlier on the platform took some fruits and balanced herself and baby on a rope. There was another mother and baby on the platform now but the mother was clearly afraid of the other (male?) orang utan and had to keep sneaking behind this other primate for her share of fruits. There was another younger orang utan who was happily swinging on another rope, munching on his meal.

I spent about 20 minutes there before leaving. By then, the orang utans had already left and the feeding area was taken over by their cousins (macaques?).


I didn’t hear any voices in my head (I did hear the bird songs at the RDC though I didn’t see them) or have any primate climb on me


I took a taxi to town (RM40) and we reached my hotel about 45 minutes later. (Cabbie asked why I didn't travel with friends; I told him I prefer travelling alone because of the convenience, freedom and flexibility it gives me). We agreed for him to pick me up and send me to the airport on Sunday. The hotel has this well-known rooftop so after dropping my bag, I went up to seventh floor and up the stairs to explore the rooftop for a while.

In the evening, I went out to explore the area before having dinner at a restaurant. My dinner totally compensated for my poor lunch.

On Saturday, I woke up early for prayers. Breakfast was had at Ba Lin Rooftop before I set off to explore the town. I followed the
Sandakan Heritage Trail starting from the Jamik Mosque (it’s on a little hill with stairs leading to it; I didn’t climb up though) then on to the Tourist Information Centre (it only opens on weekdays though) and Sandakan Heritage Museum. I went in and up the stairs and spent about 15 minutes there. Then I left and walked up the Stairs with Hundred Steps - although I doubt there were a hundred steps (actually the people at the museum didn't advise me to take the stairs as it may be risky especially for single females like myself) - but I decided to brave it especially when I saw a couple in front of me. I also recited some verses. Alas, the couple stopped after climbing only a few steps so I continued on alone. Nothing untoward happened, no one jumped at me or attacked me, Alhamdulillah.

I decided to turn right and walked along Jalan Istana all the way to the World War II Chinese Memorial and Japanese Cemetery. While I did find the Memorial, I only saw large Chinese graves around me (unless the Japanese were buried in Chinese graves). As it was getting hotter by the minute, I decided to turn back.

I walked to
Agnes Keith’s House (now a museum). Local pay RM2 to enter (locals pay distinctly lower rates compared to foreigners at RDC, Orang Utan Rehabilitation Centre and museums here). It was charmingly maintained, having been rebuilt upon the ruined foundations of the original house which was destroyed during the WW II. In the master bedroom, there was a booklet which debates whether the house is haunted and to be honest with you, as I read it, I could feel goose bumps... and I thought I heard some noises too behind me. I spent about half an hour there and when I left, there were about two dozens of visitors there. What did I tell you about Saturday crowds? I wonder how crowded RDC and the Orang Utan sanctuary were today.

There is a viewing platform called the Rotary Observation Pavilion nearby and from here, you can see the sea. I walked down Jalan Istana and at the roundabout with the Clock Tower, I took 12 o’clock to Jalan Seraya. There were the remains of an old staircase at the end of this road (disappointingly too little of the remains I thought). I decided against finding the ancient graveyard and set off in the opposite direction downhill, diverting from the main road just before reaching the overhead bridge and making my way up some crumbling steps before arriving at
St Michael's and All Angels Church. That ended my heritage trail and I walked to the restaurant where I had my dinner the night before for my lunch.

I returned to the hotel and rested. I went out again at a quarter to 3 and went for a massage. There were some clouds overhead so it was not as hot as it was earlier or should be (in fact, it rained during the night which I slept through blissfully. Only realised it when I saw the wet roads this morning).

Back to the hotel after 5 pm and ventured out for dinner at almost 8. The restaurant was showing the match of the week: Liv v ManUre. I returned before half-time and watched the rest of the match in my room.

On Sunday, I woke up at almost 7 and went up to the rooftop for breakfast at 0740. Checked out at 0828 and the cabbie was already waiting for me. Reached the airport before 9 and dropped off my bag. Flight took off on time and we landed at KLIA at 1250.

My thoughts on Sandakan? I enjoyed it better than Sibu. One thing I notice is the town has quite a few roundabouts and overhead bridges. It was just a tad too hot though but this is only to be expected as it’s by the sea. If you’re heading
there or other towns in Sabah, do check out the Sabah Tourism Board official website. It’s pretty informational and helpful.

So adieu for now, Borneo. I hope to return soon, though I doubt I can make as many visits in a year as I had done this year!

You reckon?


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Arsenal hosted Sunderland on Sunday. Captain Van-tastic scored the fastest goal in the league this season, less than half a minute after kick-off! I'd only just switched on the TV but managed to catch the repeat. I thought Rosicky had a decent game bossing the midfield. All the newbies - Jenkinson, Gervinho, Arteta, PerMer and Benayoun in the second half - played. No Park sighted though. I do wonder why...

Our familiar inconsistency came to haunt us and we found ourselves in a similar position of making things difficult for ourselves as only we are capable of doing when Larsson scored a scorcher of a free kick. Thankfully RvP scored one of his own minutes before full time to earn ourselves a precious three points. A win, three points, I'm not complaining...




Celebrating with Herr PerMer


It’s Marseille in mid-week (tomorrow), y’all.