Tuesday, March 10, 2009

Bangkok Dangerous

Starring: Yours truly and the good (hardly dangerous) people of Bangkok
Duration: 6-9 March 2009

The story was I had been to Phuket and Chiang Mai twice and felt Bangkok warranted a second visit. So I availed of the online offer and bought the ticket to Bangkok in end-October 2008 (and had I not dithered and bought it a week earlier, it would have cost me RM100 less. Dang! That’s opportunity cost for me!).

Took half-day leave on Friday and went to KLIA from the office. For some reason, I thought the flight would depart at 1530 and so I was surprised when I realised just before checking in that the flight was at 1515 after all. Ditsy! Well, so long as I could still check in and didn’t miss the flight... (note to self: check and confirm the departure time before leaving for the airport in future).

We landed at Suvarnabhumi Airport at 1620 local time and joined the queue of at least two flights which arrived ahead of us at the immigration. After collecting my bag, I made my way down to Level 1 to catch the free shuttle for the Transport Centre. At the Transport Centre, I hopped onto an awaiting bus (number 551) to Victory Monument (for THB35, you can also take public buses from the Transport Centre to Minburi, Happy Land, On Nut BTS station, Samut Prakan, Don Muang Airport and Rangsit) but I chose Victory Monument as it was the nearest to my hotel – not to mention the only landmark I was familiar with. Alternatively, you can take the Airport Express (AE) buses to Silom, Khao San Road, Sukhumvit or Victory Monument for THB150.

Unfortunately, we hit the infamous Bangkok evening traffic jam and the journey stretched even longer.

From Victory Monument, I made my way to my hotel (thanks to my mate who helped booked it for me) at Rajparop Road (soi Petchaburi 19). I wasn’t too thrilled though when I discovered that I had to go through Pratunam Market to reach the hotel.

After checking in and catching my breath, I went out to Ratchadamri Road. I walked past Isetan (saving it for another day) to Central World. To my delight, the Arsenal store was having a clearance sale and I took advantage of the sale, but of course. I returned to the hotel after 10 pm. There were still a lot of vehicles on the road, you’d think it was 10 am instead.

I went to bed pretty late that night, plotting my route for the next day.

Saturday, 7 March 2009

Despite the late night before, I was already up at 5 something. Strewth. After breakfast at the Sky Lounge (so called because it’s at the 43rd floor, i.e., the top-most floor of the hotel), I went to check out the Pratunam morning market but I was too late (at 9 am!) as the stall owners were already packing up their goods. Pratunam Market sells mainly clothes by the way so no big loss really. I fought my way through the crowd – and a crazy crowd it was too with some people pushing their trolleys, some carrying their bundles of clothes, some just stood gawking around and holding up the human traffic trying to move in the narrow soi – and walked to Ratchadamri Road. The plan was to walk to Chit Lom BTS station and take the Skytrain to Jatujak Weekend Market. I had earlier mulled about going to the floating market but wasn’t too keen when I found it was some 80 km away.

It was in front of Central World where I saw a sign for the Airport Express bus to the airport (costing THB100 from that stop). Good, I thought, I could take this bus back to the airport on Monday. There was a tourist information kiosk right next to the airport bus stop but it was still closed. I was looking around for opening time when a friendly man approached me and asked if I needed help and I was a bit surprised to find myself asking about the floating market. He told me bus no. 79 which passes Central World goes to the floating market, it would cost THB20 and the journey would take 40 minutes. I asked whether it was the Damnoen Saduak Floating Market and he replied that it would take at least two hours to get there. Forget it, I wasn’t keen to spend two hours travelling to and another two hours coming back so I decided to check out the floating market that he suggested instead.

And what do you know, along came the bus almost immediately - just like in the movies - and I found myself running to catch it (the fare actually cost a mere THB18). There went my plans for the day but hey I could still carry them out the next day. We travelled or rather inched our way through the Bangkok crawl before eventually crossing Chao Phraya and finally arriving at the Taling Chan district. The bus conductor very kindly showed us the way to the floating market. There were a lot of stalls lining up the street selling plants on one side and food on the other all the way to the Khlong Chakpra where the floating market was. The main attraction here was the floating restaurant. There were a number of boats moored along the platform with vendors selling a variety of dishes. I walked the length of the restaurants and then around the area before spotting a tourist centre selling tickets to other floating markets. I wasn’t too keen at first to join the tour when I heard it would take three hours but decided heck, I had come all the way there, I might as well stay and experience it. The ticket cost THB99, a real bargain for a three-hour trip.

Our boat left at 11. We passed houses, numerous wats, orchards and even children swimming in the khlong (the canal didn’t look all that clean or fit for a dip if you ask me).

After some time, we docked at Khlong Latmayom Floating Market. The local people own this market and the market offered fresh produce and local food. There was also a puppet show in session when we were there. We stopped there for half an hour before continuing on our journey.

Our next stop was at Wat Saphan Floating Market, named after a wat which was on the bank of Bang Noi Canal. As before, we stopped there for half an hour. Then we continued on and stopped (but didn’t get down) at Wat Pak Nam Fang Toi where we participated in a fish-feeding activity. The wat sells buns for tourists to buy to feed the fish and the proceeds go towards the upkeep and maintenance of the wat. And boy, were there a lot of fish in the khlong (all big and fat too! I think in Malaysia, they would have been fished out!).

Our last stop was at a canal-side stall selling a local delicacy – glutinous rice in bamboo (and no, it’s not our version of lemang. This one looked like a sweet version – for dessert). We reached Taling Chan Floating Market at 1445.

I caught the bus back to Bangkok and alighted at Siam. Then I crossed to the other side and took another bus (thanks to the very helpful bus conductor) to Hua Lamphong train station where I bought a train ticket to Sam Sen station about four miles away for a mere THB2 – and when I mentioned train here, I meant a commuter train, not a metro or Skytrain. See, I wanted to go to Gems Gallery there and after studying and scrutinising the map, I felt I could take a train to get there (sure I could take a cab but it might cost me THB100 if not more). I found the store alright but fortunately or unfortunately, it didn’t have what I was looking for. And so I Still Haven’t Found What I’m Looking For – a jade bangle with clasp. I have a jade bangle but I want to buy one with a clasp - for easy removal. So I made my way back to Bangkok.

From the train station, I took another bus (the people at the info counter were really knowledgeable!) to Ratchathewi Road. This time, the bus was not air-conditioned and looked more dilapidated.

From Ratchathewi station, I walked to the nearby Phetchaburi Road (soi 7) in search of Masjid Darun Aman. Dinner was had at Mak Yah Restaurant (a Muslim resto). The deco and ambience of the restaurant was nice but I couldn’t say the same for my order.

Then I walked to Isetan and Central World. I returned to the hotel at almost 10 pm – 13 hours after I left! And I felt pleased with myself today – for being able to navigate in Bangkok and riding public buses all by myself! Couldn’t wait to bathe the dust of Bangkok off me; I couldn’t remember it being that polluted on my first visit.

Sunday, 8 March 2009
I ventured out to the Pratunam Market before breakfast this morning but unlike the day before, the market was still bustling when I left after 9. Took the Skytrain to Mo Chit and walked to Jatujak Weekend Market. It was a hot, bright, sunny mid-morning and it must be 38C in the market. After a while, all the stalls started to look similar. As much as I tried finding the stores where I made my purchases from during my last visit, I just couldn’t. I left empty-handed after slightly more than an hour – it was just too hot to shop, man. Still only the first weekend in March and already so hot. I wonder how it must be like in May or June? Or maybe I should just stick to air-conditioned malls.

Took the train to Saphon Taksin and walked the short distance to Central Pier. You can take a river boat from here to visit attractions along the river such as The Grand Palace, Wat Phra Kaew, Wat Pho, etc. After thinking it over, I changed my mind about taking the boat to Wat Pho for a massage (the temple is the birthplace of traditional Thai massage) and decided to go to Health Land instead.

The last time I was there, the Thai traditional massage was fully booked out but I was in luck this time. Thai massage uses both palms and thumbs (and legs and feet etc) to concentrate on pressure points. The massage includes stretching on the customer’s part and oh my God, I thought I was going to die (of pain, of ecstasy) when the masseuse ‘massaged’ my body. Both my shoulders hurt like anything and I had flashes in my mind: ‘Tourist died after receiving Thai massage.’ I wonder if anyone had actually ever died but hey there’s a first time for everything and I could be the first casualty.

I left the centre two hours later, my lower body parts screaming and aching and limped back to the station. Took the train to Sala Daeng station and walked the Patpong area (it was actually mild during the day) to Jim Thompson factory outlet store. I didn’t find anything that caught my fancy though and left, yes you guess it, empty-handed.

Still determined to shop, I took the Skytrain to MBK then walked over to Siam Discovery Centre. Had my late lunch at Siam Centre (next door to Siam Discovery Centre). There were some Muslim and seafood stalls at the food court there, hurray. Then I walked to the posh Siam Paragon next door. Tod’s was having a sale but although the goods were priced lower than in KL, the discount was less so the goods actually cost more after discount. Left Siam Paragon empty-handed.

Took the Skytrain (I bought a day pass so might as well) to Chit Lom and went to Gaysorn Shopping Centre before crossing over to Central World. Finally bought some souvenirs at Isetan and NaRaYa. I hung out at the Arsenal store for a while before returning to the hotel.

No FA Cup match shown (boo hoo) and I watched Stardust instead on HBOM (for the fourth time? Or fifth?). Love that movie.

Monday, 9 March 2009

All good things come to an end and today was my last morning in Bangkok. After breakfast and checking out, I rushed to Central World to catch the Airport Express bus back to the airport. I was the only passenger in there. The journey took only 40 minutes this time but on the other side of the road, boy, was the infamous Bangkok jam.

We were served the same food as on our outbound trip (satay and fried rice, some funny pudding and Ferrero Rocher) but at least the fried rice and pudding tasted better this time.

I was already in the bus heading back to micasa only an hour after arriving at KLIA.

~~~~~~~~

Arsenal exacted revenge on Burnley in the FA Cup on Sunday. Three nil to the Arsenal, thanks to goals from Vela, skipper of the day Eduardo with his wonderful superb beach flick (he made it look so effortlessly easy!) and with his left foot that was so horrifically injured only last year too, and from-jeers-to-cheers Eboue. Thanks to SK for texting me the results. Read about the match here, here, here and here.











Burn, baby, burn!




And here are some pictures of Captain Cesc in training.