I’d
purchased MAS MHflypass for ASEAN last December and had used two of them for my
flights to Bali (en route to Dili, Timor Leste) and Manila (en route to
Bacolod). I decided to use the remaining pass to revisit Hanoi as it’d been
almost 16 years since my first visit. I did some research, booked hotel and
Airbnb (and cancelled the first hotel and booked another) then joined Klook to
buy some tickets. I also bought a bus ticket online using 12go because I had
problems purchasing the ticket from the bus company’s website.
Thursday,
31 October 2024
Initially I
wanted to fly out on Wednesday, 30 October 2024, but found there was no flight
out on Wednesdays so I had to change my plans and flew out a day later. Left
home right after morning prayers and made my way to the LRT station. I arrived
at KLIA T1 at 08:10 and immediately headed for the counter to drop off my bag.
I then went in to clear immigration and security check.
Our flight
took off on time and we landed three hours later at Hanoi Noi Ba International
Airport. There were another one or two flights which also just arrived so there
were considerable long queues to clear immigration. My bag was already waiting
and placed on the floor instead of making joyride around the carousel. I exited
the baggage area and found a quiet corner to perform prayers.
I had
bought bus ticket online from the domestic airport to Sapa; however, Interbus
sent me message the day before that they could pick me up from the
international airport. Alhamdulillah! Turned out there were two other Malaysian
couples and a Chinese couple also taking the bus to Sapa. I was told to wait
from 13:30 but the bus arrived at its intended departure time of 14:00. We had
to check our names against the tickets and remove our footwear and place them
in provided plastic bags before boarding the bus - not unlike entering an Asian
house.
The bus
stopped twice to allow passengers to use the facilities. At each stop,
passengers needed to step down onto a rubber mat and chose a pair of slippers
from a basket and return those slippers to the basket before re-boarding the
bus. Of course some Westerners didn’t understand this concept.
We arrived
in Sapa just after 19:00. I collected my bag and asked for directions to London
Sapa Hotel. I was quoted VND40k to get there but I said I’d walk as I knew the
hotel was near the bus office. And I discovered the following evening that
there was even a much shorter route from where we disembarked to the hotel!
Well, good thing I refused.
After
checking in, depositing my bags and checking my timeline, I ventured out to
find dinner. Dinner was had at Thong Dong Vegan Kitchen & Café. I love that
the café has bookshelves of books and envelopes of quotations on the tables.
There was also a resident kitty who came to greet the diners. The weather was
mild and it was a lovely walk along the Sapa lake. I returned to the hotel just
before 22:00 local time (Vietnam is an hour behind).
Friday, 1
November 2024
I woke up
early for morning prayers then tried to catch some kip after prayers. I had
breakfast at level 6 of the hotel and was delighted to find the hotel resident
kitties. After breakfast, I walked to Sun Plaza for the funicular train to
Muong Hoa. At Muong Hoa, we walked out of the station and walked up the hill to
the cable car station. There was a long queue to board the cable car. I queued
for 25 minutes or so. Thankfully many people could fit in a gondola so that
made it more stable and helped me feel less scared of the height. The cable car
ride took 15 minutes and my ears popped at the altitude change. After admiring
the view, I headed for the stairs to begin my climb up. There’s another
funicular train here that you could take near to the summit but I read that it
was not necessary.
Well, I
must say the stairs were challenging alright. They seemed endless! The thin
mountain air didn’t help any. So I took my time climbing up and you’d be wise
to do the same. I finally reached the summit and spent some time there taking
in the view and snapping photos. Alhamdulillah, the fog and clouds had cleared
sufficiently by then to allow clearer picture of the surroundings. At 3,143
metres, Mount Phan Xi Păng is the highest mountain in Indochina. Just like
Mount Kinabalu, one could also hike up if he chooses to.
I then made
my way down and back to the cable car station. This time there was hardly any
queue for the cable car. If you’d bought a Klook ticket that includes lunch,
your buffet lunch is at Van Sam Restaurant. The buffet spread was generous and
there was halal food too, alhamdulillah. There was some cultural show at Muong
Hoa but I didn’t stop for long before making my way down to the funicular train
station. We had to wait a bit for the funicular train down.
Back in
Sapa, I walked on the other side of the lake on my way back to the hotel.
Dinner was again had at Thong Dong Vegan Kitchen & Café.
Caturday, 2
October 2024
I set off
after breakfast today to Cat Cat Village. The plan was to hike there and
beyond. A few motorbikers approached me asking if I needed a ride and I
declined them. I referred to a map shared on a blog and followed it. There was
water going down the hill and it got a tad irritating. After a while, I came
across a sign stating a shortcut to Cat Cat Village so I decided to follow it.
Sure enough, it took me to the village. I almost missed the ticket counter.
You’ll need to purchase a ticket to enter the village. The ticket costs VND70k
for those below 1.3 metres tall and VND150k for those above 1.3 metres. I had
my ticket checked then followed the path down to the lane lined on both sides
with shops selling handicrafts and local souvenirs. I only gave them a cursory
glance. There was a group of South Koreans wearing the local costumes. Every
once in a while, you’ll come to a platform where you can enjoy the view and
take photos.
After some
time, I came to a sign showing the way to the waterfall so I went down more
steps (already dreading having to climb them up again later!) and soon came to the
waterfalls. Yes, there are more than one waterfall. I spent some time walking
along the river and crossing it before turning back. Having had my fill of the
place, I walked out and up the steps and away from Cat Cat Village. I followed
a country lane and had the whole lane all to myself. There were the occasional
white couples but they were far and far between. Unfortunately, I took the
wrong turning at one junction where I turned left instead of right which meant
I had to climb up steep hills instead of going down hills. This also meant I
cut my hike shorter than I planned to. I emerged onto a main road and stood
waiting for a bus or motorbike offering me a ride. One chap on a motorbike came
after ten minutes offering me a ride and I asked him to drop me near the
cathedral for VND50k.
I decided
to have lunch while I was still out and about and had it at Thong Dong Vegan
Kitchen & Café again before returning to the hotel. I paid for my room and
informed the reception that I would be checking out early the following morning
and if I could get a packed breakfast. I then stayed in for the rest of the day
and had some bread and milk for dinner. I also started packing my things.
Sunday, 3
October 2024
The hotel
staff came to deliver my packed breakfast just before 07:00. I left at 07:15
and walked to the bus office. The bus was already there and I was boarding it
within five minutes. The bus left at 07:27 as everyone who should boarded it
had already done so. We stopped at the same rest stops. To use the facilities,
you need to pay VND3k. We finally reached Hanoi at around 13:00. Everyone got
down at Tran Quang Khai and I walked all the way to my Airbnb at Phung Hung. My
Airbnb is at the fifth floor (fourth floor to us used to the British system)
and accessible by a narrow staircase. Thankfully the owner came out and helped
me with my suitcase.
After
performing prayers, I walked to Hoang Thanh Thang Long, an imperial citadel
which dates from the 11th century and inscribed into the UNESCO
World Heritage Site in 2010 which was after my last visit. It was near my
Airbnb but I had to walk around some government building. And the entrance is
at Hoang Dieu. I paid VND70k for my ticket (no distinction between locals and
foreigners) and walked to the grounds. There were many groups of students
there, dressed in their ao dai. I explored the grounds before returning to the
main gate.
I left close to closing time and made my way to train street. This is a train track lined on both sides with small cafés and is an attraction in its own right. There was a festive air and many foreigners were already there soaking in the atmosphere. Cafés were doing a brisk trade and there were small chairs placed along the track for patrons to sit and nurse their drinks. I walked along the track then crossed Tran Phu to get to the other track. This was better to me so I stayed there. One shop had the times posted but 5:30 p.m. came and went with no train in sight. Finally, we heard whistles but even then it took another 15 minutes or so before the train finally appeared at almost 6:00 p.m. Some of the café owners were telling the visitors to move out. I was lucky to find a foothold at the edge of a café. After the train passed (all of one minute!), the crowd dispersed. I went to find dinner and after traipsing all over, finally had dinner at Soy Vegetarian Restaurant where buffet was served for only VND80k (USD3.20!).
After
dinner, I headed back to my room.
Monday, 4
October 2024
Early
morning start. Despite being on leave, there was a meeting. Unsure, I joined
the meeting which dragged on to close to an hour. I quickly finished packing
then made my way down those stairs and walked to Long Bien bus station. I had
read that one must be careful of pickpockets here. Alhamdulillah, nothing
untoward happened and bus no. 17 came within five minutes. I was surprised to
find the trip was VND15k and after digging my money pouch, only found VND14k
which the conductor accepted. The journey took longer than the 60 minutes which
I anticipated. It took close to 90 minutes and it terminated at the domestic
terminal. I had to drag my suitcase and walked to the international airport.
Good thing it was an overcast morning.
I arrived
at 12:00 noon and managed to drop off my bag. I then joined the long queue to
clear immigration and the longer security line. Once inside, I went to perform
ablutions and performed prayers in the nursery. I reached the gate just as
passengers were boarding. Alhamdulillah.
We landed
at KLIA T1 at 17:40. I missed the 18:05 KLIA Transit train and had to take the
18:22 train. Reached home at 20:25 after performing prayers at Ampang station.
That was a
great trip. I only went into one shop, having no desire or temptation to shop.
I think there’s more I haven’t discovered about Hanoi and wouldn’t mind a
repeat trip.
