I needed a trip and after checking the calendar, bought return train ticket to Kuala Kangsar for last Friday, 11 August 2023. I left micasa and hurriedly made my way to KL Sentral. The train departed on time and we arrived at Kuala Kangsar bang on time too.
I exited the station and headed for Jalan Tun Razak. I walked past the residence of the last Raja Bendahara until his death in 1953, a stately old mansion which still looked good and sturdy. Next was the sprawling campus of the Malay College Kuala Kangsar which was established in 1905 and sometimes referred to as the Eton of the East. Nearby is the Pavilion which dates from around 1920 and Ridzwaniah Mosque which was built in 1980 and replaced an earlier version which dated from 1915. At the end of the road at the corner with Jalan Raja Chulan is the rubber tree which is the first one planted in the country although it looked pretty young to me.
I turned into Jalan Raja Chulan and saw the Idris Club across the road. During the colonial times, it was the main watering hole for British administrators and planters and the hub of the town’s social life. The District and Land Office which was built in the late 19th century and contains the offices of the Deputy Public Prosecutor is opposite the Club. I walked on and turn left and walked down the hill to the Post Office. There’s a roundabout here and a clock tower with a golden dome stands on the roundabout island. From this spot, you could also see the Malaysian Airforce McDonnel Douglas A-4 Skyhawk plane standing guard over the town.
I took Jalan Istana and walked up Jalan Bukit Kerajaan to what used to be the King’s Pavilion, a mansion acquired by the British in 1878 to become the official residency of Hugh Low, the Resident of Perak. It was used for this purpose until 1905. In 1954, it became the Government English Girls’ School and is part of the Raja Perempuan Kelsom Secondary School today.
I walked back down to Jalan Istana and on, passing Galeri Sultan Azlan Shah, a museum housed in a former royal palace built in 1903 originally known as Istana Hulu and later renamed Istana Kota. I continued on until I reached the Ubudiah Mosque which was completed in 1917. The mosque was designed by Arthur Hubback who also designed the old KL railway station and many other famous landmarks. There is a traditional wooden house near the mosque which from the sign outside appears to be called Baitul Noor. Across the road from the mosque is Madrasah Idrisiah which was built around the same time as the mosque to provide education for the poor. I walked on a bit more under the blazing merciless sun until I reached Baitul Rahmah, another fine wooden mansion which was built in 1911.
I turned back and walked until I reached the Recreation Park. I was looking if there were earlier trains back to KL – there were two trains leaving before mine but the only seats available were for the less abled. I was about to send a message to a mate when someone came up and asked if I could spare some change for him to buy a needle for him to administer insulin. I dug out and produced enough change for him.
My mate wanted to come down so I waited for him. While waiting, I wandered to the red phone box, the McDonnel Douglas A-4 Skyhawk plane and up to the Anglican Church (consecrated in 1908) and the Clifford School across the road from the church. It is one of the oldest schools in the country and older than its near neighbour MCKK. Across Jalan Taiping from Clifford School is the town’s first hospital built in 1890.
I met up with my mate about half an hour later and he drove me to the Laksa and Cendol Food Court. We then met up again after Friday prayers and drove to Laksa Pak Ngah. I didn’t enjoy my laksa though. After lunch, my mate stopped to buy some mangosteens for me and then at Ridzwaniah Mosque for me to perform prayers. We headed for the train station after that and I then sat to wait for the 16:13 train back to KL.
Arrived in KL and started feeling different. Had a fever and gastritis so I went to bed early that evening. Kuala Kangsar, I would love to return but you’re just too hot for me.
