Monday, 5 May 2025
Of course I could hardly sleep a wink. The coffee shop was not walled or glassed in so mosquitoes were free to fly and feast on us. It started getting colder during the night too. Finally just before 05:00, I got up and walked back to Terminal 1D. I performed prayers after security check then went through another security check.
We boarded the plane for Lamu - I somehow not only managed to fit everything in my bag but also lifted it up into the overhead compartment! But I removed my iPad, neck pillow and thick book of course - and landed about 70 minutes later. I followed the other passengers and went to the jetty where there were boat operators waiting. I boarded the public boat for the boat ride to Lamu island. The fare was KES200. I noticed the ground was wet and the boat captain confirmed that it rained early that morning.
People are so friendly in Lamu (and I had read that they preferred to be left to their own devices!) that they started coming and asking you to follow them. I asked one of them to help call my host, Sultwan, and he came within five minutes to show me to his place. We stopped at Tawakal office to buy my bus ticket to Mombasa for the following morning before going to his place. Of course it had to be at the very top of the building and only accessible by some narrow stairs.
I rested for a bit and ventured out after performing prayers. I wandered around the Old Town (a UNESCO World Heritage Site) and it reminded me of Stone Town in Zanzibar. I visited the museum and found out that the island, just like Zanzibar, has an Omani influence. The museum entrance for foreigners is KES500 plus KES50 charge.
After the museum, I wandered along the corniche then the back streets and then went to find lunch. I had coconut rice and fish soup, then returned to my room to rest.
Tuesday, 6 May 2025
It rained again during the night and woke me up. I got up at 04:30, showered and performed prayers. I finished packing and left at 06:00 and Sultwan led me to the boat that would take me to Mokowe. As we were beneath the jetty, I only realised that it was raining when we went out into the open water and boy, were we drenched! There was some plastic covering but it was inadequate. We reached Mokowe and I grabbed my bag and walked to Tawakal bus.
The bus left at 07:06 and made many stops to pick and drop off passengers. We finally reached rainy Mombasa at about 13:40. It rained all the way and indeed throughout Kenya. I took a tuktuk to my Airbnb which is at a building behind Premier Inn. After getting directions from the locals, I managed to locate the building and went to the apartment on the fourth floor. Yup, such is my luck on this trip.
My clothes were all damp from the rain but the Airbnb host kindly allowed me to hang them in the corridor.
I ventured out at about 4 p.m. and walked to the railway station. A matatu driver helpfully explained that I could come anytime between 06:00 to 06:30 and get the bus or matatu to the Nairobi terminus. The fare would be KES300.
I turned back and dropped by a supermarket to buy some buns.
Wednesday, 7 May 2025
I woke up early for morning prayers then tried to sleep again but sleep was elusive. There was a blackout since 04:00 and by the time I left the apartment at 09:00, it hadn’t been restored. I walked to the Tusks at Moi Avenue before walking down to Fort Jesus, stopping at a few forex offices to enquire the rates. I met some over friendly locals who wanted to take me on a tour and I declined. I had to pay the entrance fee by card as cash was not accepted and I didn’t have M-Pesa. There was transaction fee and service charge, but of course.
Another chap brought me in and I was starting to feel annoyed. What does it take for a girl to be left alone? What made you think I craved company? And it turned out the tour would cost extra and I said he should have made it clear and transparent at the beginning and that I already mentioned at the start that I didn’t want any tour. I then explored the fort by myself just the way I like it. I’m sorry if I sound rude or snobbish but trust me, I love my own company.
I spent an hour in the fort then walked to Old Town. I really like walking in the narrow streets of old towns, looking at the buildings. And there were many cats too, to make up for the lack of cats I met the previous week.
I had lunch at a restaurant on Moi Avenue and had beef pilau and passion fruit drink. The woman who worked there kept touching and holding me and I told her slowly a few times not to touch me. I wonder if I’ve come to dislike being touched by anyone. I think I’m still ok if my schoolmates touch and hold me, well, some of them that is.
After a quick visit to the supermarket, I returned to the apartment to rest and charge my iPad. It had been a windy and hazy day today and dry for a change.
Thursday, 8 May 2025
It started raining after 05:00 and continued raining throughout the morning and better part of the afternoon. I was ready to leave after 13:00 but the rain picked up so I waited until it petered off again. I headed out at 13:45 and walked to get to the Likoni ferry.
This mzungu joined the locals to board the ferry across. Those in vehicles are allowed to board first. Pedestrians get to ride the ferry without any charge. It took about seven minutes to reach Likoni. I walked up along the main road and spotted a restaurant which happened to have fish briyani so I ordered a Una fish briyani. It was all right, nothing to shout about. It certainly didn’t taste like the briyani I’m used to, maybe they use different spices over there.
After that late lunch, I walked along the market stalls down to the ferry. I didn’t have to wait long before one arrived. Back on Mvita island, I walked along Azania Drive up to Mama Ngira Drive until I reached Burhani Garden then I turned and walked back to the Airbnb.
I had an early night as I had an early start the next morning.
Friday, 9 May 2025
I woke up at 04:30, had a shower and performed morning prayers. I then finished packing and left at 06:20 with Virginia, my host. I made my way to the railway station and I was lucky to get a seat on the matatu. We left at 06:33 and reached Mombasa Terminus at 06:58. We had to line our bags up on a plank and have a dog sniff at them, then collect the bags and have them scanned. Those of us purchased their tickets online must get proper tickets from the machines in the ticket office before we were allowed in. There was an ID check against the ticket and a body check.
I boarded the train at 07:45. The train left at 07:59 and we arrived at Nairobi Terminus at 14:09. We had to cross over the platform to get to the train for Nairobi Central and stations in between. The ticket cost KES50.
From Nairobi Central, I made my way by foot to the apartment I’d booked at Charles Rubia Road. The hustle and bustle, the dust, the dirt, the black fumes, the noise all hit me all at once. After a one-mile walk dodging fellow pedestrians, peddlers and vehicles, I found the building. I had a bit of difficulty locating the caretaker but some locals helped me, Alhamdulillah. Finally I was in.
After prayers and a little rest, I ventured out again into the crazy atmosphere and went to find Quick Mart supermarket to get some food. I noticed street traders selling books (most likely pirated) which include Diary of a CEO, Atomic Habits, The Subtle Art of Not Giving A F*ck, etc, priced from KES500 each. I was so tempted to buy.
I tried searching for dinner but in the end, decided to just have instant noodles for dinner. You can take this Asian out of Asia but you cannot take the Asian out of her. Haha!
Saturday, 10 May 2025
I woke up early for prayers and didn’t sleep again. I left quite late, at 10:20, and made my way to the National Museum of Kenya. Then I walked towards the University of Nairobi area and continued on to the City Market. I spent some time at City Market and bought some souvenirs there. Then I walked to nearby Jamia Mosque and the McMillan Memorial Library just next door to the mosque. This is the oldest library in Nairobi and the second oldest library in Kenya after the Seif bin Salim Library in Mombasa.
After that, I walked to Kenyatta Avenue and went to a few foreign exchange offices to check the rates. After changing money to pay for my stay, I walked to the Cathedral Basilica of the Holy Family, passing Kenyatta International Convention Centre. Then I continued to the Railway Museum, passing the Parliament along the way.
After wandering around a bit more, I returned to the apartment to perform prayers and rest. I couldn’t help thinking that I’d be home in two days’ time and that in 48 hours, I’d be preparing to rest to return to the office the following morning. Le sigh. I stayed in the rest of the day. It rained around 19:00 for a short while.
Sunday, 11 May 2025
I stayed in this morning and made good progress on my book. I brought eight books on this trip including a four-in-one Reader’s Digest hardcover compilation and had given four of them away - and the recipients were all delighted to receive them. I also finished packing.
After performing prayers (I’d asked the host for a late check-out), I checked out and left. I walked to a nearby Swahili restaurant selling halal food and ordered a beef pilau. It took at least an hour to be prepared. After paying for lunch, I had a chat with the cook who told me that he was originally from Lamu but had stayed in Nairobi most of his life and that he’d been to Indonesia for two months. He even remembered the word ‘Terima kasih’!
I then made my way to Moi Avenue to get a bus to the airport. One came shortly after but of course we had to wait until the bus was full first. The journey took more than an hour because of the stops and traffic. It started raining as we were approaching the airport which quickly turned heavy. It reminded me of walking in to Bujumbura Airport in the rain and I was praying that my clothes in my suitcase would remain dry.
I made my way to Terminal 1B. The rain stopped but started again when I was safely in the terminal. I had a long wait and finish my book while waiting to drop off my bag. There wasn’t any prayer room at the check-in area so I performed evening prayers in a corner.
The check-in process was slow as we had to go through a document check first before we were allowed to approach the check-in desks. Some passengers were seen repacking their bags to adhere to the allowed check-in weight.
After clearing passport control, I went up to the gates and wandered around the duty-free. Our gate was changed from gate 11 to gate 4 barely an hour before our scheduled departure.
Monday, 12 May 2025
We took off late, almost an hour late. I declined to be served food that early in the flight and tried to get some shut-eye but of course sleep eluded me.
We landed at KLIA T2 at 15:50 and I quickly made my way to the baggage claim. I decided to perform prayers while waiting for the bag to be out and was pleased and thankful when it emerged just as I was approaching the carousel. Alhamdulillah.
I caught the trains back and reached home at 18:40. And that was the end of my East African trip.
The end