I’d earlier purchased a Batik Air ticket to Palembang via Agoda for early February and I wasn’t amused when I received a text message from Batik Air on Christmas Eve informing that the return flight was not operational. After checking my PNR on the airline website and finding it didn’t exist, I sent messages to Batik Air’s customer service via WhatsApp. The airline staff couldn't find my PNR either so it must’ve been cancelled by some party. I reached out to Agoda and they insisted the flight was still operational. It’s not easy to get reach out to Agoda except navigate the irritating app but I persisted and finally managed to email them on Christmas Day. Agoda tried its best not to accept responsibility so I shared the email from the airline informing I needed to reach out to the booking company and my correspondence with the airline.
I had already booked a non-refundable room so I decided to buy an AirAsia ticket this time. I would’ve been happy not to come but the hotel had been paid for.
Monday, 2 February 2026
I left home just as the call for morning prayers rang out. Made my way to the LRT station and performed prayers there. I arrived at KLIA T2 at 08:42 and hurriedly made my way through the bag weight check, passport control and bag screening processes before walking to the gate. The plane was already boarding. I sat in between a mother and daughter and was about to change seats when another young mother and her toddler moved into the seat I was eyeing.
We landed into wet Palembang at 09:55 local time. Do fill up the ‘All Indonesia’ arrival form within three days before arrival as it would make the immigration process smooth. Well, up to a point. I had a very inquisitive officer attending to me demanding to see my return flight ticket (I showed her my boarding pass), hotel details (I showed her my hotel booking), and asking the purpose of my visit. She also scrutinised my passport and asked if I’d stayed in Cambodia before. I was getting annoyed by then, I mean what business is it to her anyway, and said no, I was only visiting. And I have enough things to do back home to even want to overstay or think about migrating to your country.
My passport was finally stamped and I made my way to the LRT station. The LRT was built to support Palembang when it became the host city for the Asian Games in 2018. I paid Rp10k for the ticket to Dishub station then proceeded to to wait. Train frequency is about every 16-17 minutes. It took 30 minutes to reach Dishub station and from there, I walked to Cemerlang Inn on Jl. Mayor Ruslan. Check-in was at 14:00 and there’s additional charge for early check-in so I left my bag and walked to explore the city.
I came across Cinde Market near Cinde LRT station then continued on to Masjid Agung Sultan Mahmud Badaruddin Jayo Wikramo (Grand Mosque of Palembang). MONPERA (short for Monumen Perjuangan Rakyat or People’s Struggle Monument) is across the traffic island where the Grand Mosque is. Then I checked out Sultan Mahmud Badaruddin II Museum. I didn’t enter though. Next, I walked to nearby Benteng Kuto Besak which is a walled compound from the Sultanate era on the northern side of Musi River. Originally completed in 1797, it is now used as the headquarter for the regional command of the Indonesian National Forces. Due to its military use, the compound is closed to public.
I spotted the Tourist Information Centre building and was puzzled when I went in to find three men in uniform smoking (what is it with Indonesian men and smoking?). I asked if it was the tourist information centre and they didn’t understand me so I had to ask again. There was no brochure but they finally tried to help me with suggestions of where to go. I walked a bit before turning back. It was starting to drizzle so I headed back to the hotel to check in. I rested before venturing out to find dinner to break my fast. I also bought some fried rice to go for my predawn meal and some mineral water before returning to my room.
Tuesday, 3 February 2026
I woke up for my predawn meal and prayers. I left at 09:30 and rode a Grab bike to Sriwijaya Kingdom Archaeological Park (Taman Purbakala Kerajaan Sriwijaya). I had to pay Rp5k to enter the grounds and then a further Rp5k to enter the museum. I was actually confused why I had to pay to enter the museum and was informed the Rp5k I paid earlier was for the grounds. So what’s in the grounds? Oh, a lake, I was told. I spent close to an hour in the museum. Somehow I couldn’t stop yawning. It was more due to the early morning and not because of the museum. I then stepped out and wandered the grounds. There were some buildings but they looked unoccupied and unused. Then there was the lake (or moat as what appeared on Google Maps). That was about it
I asked the guard if there was an angkot I could take into the city and he said I should order Grab. So I decided to walk to the intersection of Jl. Kadir Tkr and Jl. Pangeran Sido to see if I could catch an angkot there. It took only twenty minutes and was no hardship at all. I went into a convenience store to ask and was told to get a Maxim vehicle. I decided these locals probably had their own transportation so went to an idling angkot. To my delight, it was going to the market (I then found out that there was a market at Ampera Bridge which I something overlooked the day before). The ride took less than twenty minutes and only cost Rp5k.
I wandered around the market before going to the waterfront. I asked around and finally agreed to take a boat to Kemaro Island for Rp150k return. I asked the boat owner not to smoke. He stopped to get some petrol from a floating petrol station and asked to borrow some money. Now, the city is many, many miles away from the sea but the river must be very deep because there are big ships in the river. I’d looked at the map and seen there are a few tributaries that flow into the river and canals too so yes, the city is heavily influenced by water and the local diet too. There are stalls in the market selling fish-based stuff like what looked like flattened fish balls, fish cakes and other fish-mixed-with-other-food stuff.
It took 35 minutes to reach the island and it was a good thing I asked how long I had there. ‘30 minutes,’ he said. ‘Or could be longer and you’ll just have to pay extra.’ So I got down to explore the island. For some reason, there’s a Chinese temple there and a pagoda. I walked further and discovered a water village. I had a quick walk through the village before turning back. The journey back took almost 40 minutes. After wandering around the market again, I walked back to my room. The skies opened shortly after I reached my room. Alhamdulillah.
I was so tired that I took a nap and woke up way after the alarm. I quickly dressed and went out to find dinner.
Wednesday, 4 February 2026
This morning, I decided to have some local fish-based food for breakfast so I left at 08:30 and walked down to the main market. Cinde Market is nearer but is way smaller with limited options. I had some tekwan (fish ball type in soup with vermicelli) and a plate of pempek. It was just all right. Nothing to shout about.
I then decided to be brave and cross the river. I had checked and the pedestrian lane is quite wide so I walked up and across the Musi River. Well. The other side of the river (‘Ulu’) was not very pedestrian-friendly. I walked until Jakabaring Sport City where I’m sure the Asian Games were held.
I walked into a residential area to Al Islamic Muhammad Cheng Ho Sriwijaya Palembang Mosque. It’s a unique mosque with Chinese influence reflected in the architecture. Then I walked to the market but it looked closed so I turned back and headed for Jakabaring LRT station. I paid Rp5k for the ticket to Cinde station.
At Cinde, I got down and went to buy some fish crackers and mangosteens at the market. There was no one selling sugarcane drink there, unfortunately. I walked back to my room and it started raining during my walk. I reached my room just as the rain turned heavier. Alhamdulillah.
I went out at a quarter to six for dinner and had it at Nasi Goreng Bejo, a roadside stall that operates from the late afternoon. I had fried noodles and ordered fried rice to go. The fried noodles were very delicious and tasty. I then went across to Indomart and bought an ice cream for dessert.
Thursday, 5 February 2026
I woke up at 04:00 for my predawn meal. After showering and prayers, I finished packing. I checked out at 07:15 and received my Rp100k deposit. Then I set for Cinde LRT station and this time I took the back streets. I reached the station after only 11 minutes and without having to brave heavy traffic had I followed the main roads.
The train ride to the airport took 33 minutes. The plane from KL arrived late though, later than we did when we arrived on Monday. So much so we only took off thirty minutes later than scheduled. We landed at KLIA T2 at 13:30. I was out by 13:35 and rushed off. I made it to the 13:48 KLIA Transit train with three seconds to spare. Alhamdulillah.
P. S. I had purging when I came back from Palembang and I know it was definitely something I ate in Palembang because I fasted on Thursday. The tummy upset started on the transit train from the airport.