I bought Malaysia Airlines Flypass in end-November 2024 and decided to revisit Danang, Chiang Mai and Phnom Penh. I originally wanted to visit Danang in March but the dates I chose were not available so had to switch to Phnom Penh. I had to add on a bit more on top of the Flypass for fuel/tax/charges.
My sister has a Cambodian contact, a Cambodian Muslim Ustaz whom she and family had visited before and has continued to be in touch with. Ustaz Rani usually contacts my sister in Ramadan asking if she could help collect some funds for the local Muslims and my sister obligingly helps collect and transfers the funds. This year was no different. As I was going to Phnom Penh anyway, I offered to bring over the funds with me. We then decided to collect some clothes (new and preloved), batik and pelikat sarongs, women’s prayer attires, shirts, etc. I also bought a suitcase to store the clothes in. Alhamdulillah, my sister managed to collect substantial amounts and transferred part of the money to Ustaz Rani a week before my departure (the local Muslims are really destitute). I topped up the balance of the money with my zakat and converted into USD to bring over.
Saturday, 15 March 2025
We left my sister’s house at 07:00 and arrived at KLIA T1 35 minutes later. I quickly made my way to the bag drop counters. The line was dealt with efficiently. We then went to use the facilities where I found two rings near the hand dryer. I went to the Information Counter to ask where Lost & Found was but because it was at another floor (Level 2, if my memory serves me right), I asked if I could just leave the rings there and if the lady at the counter could help instead. She made a big deal and snapped photos of my boarding pass. I was made to feel like I was guilty for finding those dang rings. I hurried to have my boarding pass scanned and then went through the e-gate.
We took off slightly later than scheduled and landed at 09:50 local time. My last trip to Phnom Penh was back in 2009 and the city has really developed since then. I hurried out of the plane to the arrival hall and completed the e-arrival form before going through passport control. It was then when I discovered that the accommodation I’d booked months ago in Battambang had double booked and they had to cancel my booking. I was furious and quickly searched for an alternative accommodation. Alhamdulillah, despite being very last minute, I managed to find a hotel room.
Ustaz Rani was already waiting for me with a banner with my name on it. He quickly recognised me and approached me. I asked him to wait a bit while I finalise my hotel booking and messaged my sister. Then we went to the car (his brother-in-law’s car) and drove into the city. The traffic was really heavy then and it took us 40 minutes to reach Al-Serkal Mosque. I wanted to perform prayers here and prayer time was less than a hour away so I caught up with my Quran reading.
After prayers, the men dropped me at VET Bus Station. After thanking them, they left for Kampong Cham. I’d previously researched the minibuses that offer services to Battambang and was even about to pay for one only to have my payment rejected. So it was quite by accident that I discovered VET Bus company and after reading the reviews, I made up my mind to purchase ticket from VET Bus company instead.
The bus left at 13:00 and we stopped en route for 15 minutes to use the facilities. There is a WC in the bus too but it was good to be able to stretch our legs. Oh, if you ride VET Bus, you’ll get a small paper bag of bun/croissant and juice and a bottle of water. The crew also offered hot tea or coffee which I declined of course, as I was fasting. We continued our journey and reached the VET office in Battambang at 17:50 and I walked seven minutes to Royal Hotel. The streets were not great at all with potholes and dusty.
I checked in and paid USD20 for my room (USD10/night for a room with fan). Then I went up to my room and before long, I was breaking fast. After that, I ventured out to find food for my pre-dawn meal the following morning. I found one halal Indian restaurant before turning back and taking another route. Finally found a vegetarian restaurant but it was about to close. I hurried inside and asked the owner if I could buy something for my pre-dawn meal. She took pity on me and prepared some noodles. Alhamdulillah. I then returned to my room, showered, performed prayers and then hit the sack.
Sunday, 16 March 2025
I woke up at 04:00 for prayers and sahur. I then went out for a morning walk at 07:30 before returning to my room. I even met and chatted with a local Muslim girl. The hotel owner had helped arranged a tour for me (I’d booked on Booking.com when I arrived; however, the guide contacted me to inform that he was down with asthma and couldn’t bring anyone around). I insisted for the tour to start at 08:30 because anytime after that would be just too hot.
There was some confusion at first and finally an elderly guide was assigned to me. We headed south for the Bamboo Train. I had to wait a bit until a couple arrived and I could join them on the train. We had to pay USD5 to ride the train (if I had chosen to ride alone, it’d be USD10). So we boarded to open air train and sat on a bamboo platform and rode it. We had to stop when trains from the other direction came and get down. The two train operators would then lift on of the platforms, set it aside and push the other train ahead before replacing the removed platform on the track again. We also had to stop a bit at the last stop to let a train pass.
After that, we drove north to Wat Samrong Knong. Along the way, we passed a Muslim area and I saw quite a few Muslims and also Islamic establishments, and mosques. Ustaz Rani had told me there were not many Muslims in Battambang and I didn’t believe him as I saw there were a few mosques outside the city on Google Maps. Anyway, at Wat Samrong Knong, I was first shown a building where female prisoners were held. This temple was taken over by the Pol Pot regime and where prisoners were held and detained and tortured. It was one of the ‘killing fields’ in the country. There’s a Torture House Museum that tells the tale of Cambodia's dark era of Khmer Rouge regime and how it was used as detention centre and torture house. There is also a Khmer Rouge memorial in the back besides the killing fields.
After that, we drove to nearby Ek Phnom Temple. There’s a USD1 entry fee to this Angkorian temple located on the left side of the Sangkae River. It is a Hindu temple built in the 11th century under the rule of King Suryavarman I. Although partly collapsed and looted by the Khmer Rouge, it is famous for its well-carved lintels and pediments. I spent about thirty minutes exploring the area and even climbed up and into the temple.
We then returned to the city stopping en route at a mosque. However, it wasn’t time for prayers yet (not for more than an hour) so the driver dropped me off at the hotel.
I met up with the driver again at 16:30 and we drove south to Phnom Sampov, yet another killing field. It was about half an hour away from the city. I chose to walk up instead of renting a motorcycle to bring me up. There were quite a few visitors this afternoon. The views are amazing from the hill and the history is interesting. Many people, even young children, were murdered in the killing caves here during Pol Pot’s era.
I had noticed that the horizon looked dark and hurried down. I started walking faster and once I reached the ground, the winds started blowing. I quickly located my driver and after asking if I wanted to stay for the bats to which I said no, we left. The rain came down shortly after and it was heavy. The driver got down to bring down the covers; however, the rain and wind were just too heavy and strong that the covers wouldn’t stay in place and before long, I was drenched. I tried holding on to the covers so that they wouldn’t flap open but the elements were too much for me. I was grimacing throughout our journey.
We finally reached Royal Hotel and I paid the driver USD25. After breaking fast, I walked to Monorom Garden, the vegetarian restaurant, and bought fried rice for my sahur.
Monday, 17 March 2025
I woke up early for prayers and sahur. I then finished packing and had my shower. I checked out at 06:40 and the young tuktuk driver was at lobby. He then called out to the owner who gave me a krama, a checked Cambodian scarf. What a kind and thoughtful gesture! After taking a photo of them, I then thanked them and walked to VET office. It was there when I realised my bus was at 07:30, not 07:00. Duh me.
The bus came and we left on time. We stopped at the same pump station rest area as before for fifteen minutes before continuing on. We reached VET Bus station in Phnom Penh at 12:45 and I walked to Aurea Delight Hotel. I managed to check in when I arrived, alhamdulillah.
I left the hotel at 16:00 and walked to the Central Market (Phsar Thmei). Completed in 1937, it has a high central dome. You can find fresh vegetables, fruits, seafood, souvenirs and gems sold here. I left after a short while and walked to the river. Then I walked to the National Museum and the nearby Royal Palace. There was some show there with young kids dressed up in traditional garb and parading with the girls donning very high heels. Really, at that age?! O know many adult women who would have problems wearing such high heels and someone is telling these barely ten year-old girls that it’s okay and feminine to wear those heels?
I left and went to Surn Yin Vegetarian Restaurant to get some food for sahur. The restaurant quoted a different rate for conversion (it’s USD1 = 4,000 Riel but the restaurant’s conversion was slightly worse) and those who bought to go would have to pay for the container too. Then I discovered there was a halal restaurant right next door to it. Oh well…
I returned to my room and stayed in.
Tuesday, 18 March 2025
I woke up for prayers and sahur. I left my room at 08:03 and checked out. The staff wanted to check my room so I had to stay while that was done. I was walking to the bus stop for bus no. 3 to the airport when one passed by. I stood waiting for 55 minutes and not one single bus came. I was starting to despair when a Dutch bloke came. I told him I’d been waiting for 55 minutes and we decided to share a tuktuk to the airport. In the tuktuk, I discovered I had less than USD1 in local currency and told the Dutch bloke so. He offered to pay for the tuktuk in exchange of my remaining Riel. I thanked him profusely.
I quickly went to drop off my bag (it was light enough to be taken on board but I didn’t bring any ziplock bag for my LAGs). We took off on time and landed at KLIA at 14:50. However, it landed at the satellite building and I had to trek across the building for the bus back to the main terminal. I waited for my bag then went to perform prayers before going to the train station. However, I was stopped from entering the station - it turned out the trains were stuck at KLIA T2 and trains were not operating until the glitch was sorted out. I hurried up and made my way to the bus station. I managed to buy ticket for the 15:00 bus but of course it had to stop at T2 first (and I thought the bus came from T2). We finally reached KL Sentral at 16:00 and I took the LRT to Ampang Park where I had to wait another 15 blinking minutes for the bus back to Ampang. What a trying and tiring day!!!
So that was my return trip to Cambodia.